TommiM

iTrader: (19)

There may be a chance it will leak actually, but should be an easy repair. a simple thread chaser might clean it back up, or might just re tap it or helicoil / timesert it.
Without the bolt it might leak there.

Also by looking at it, you do seem to have a slightly thicker layer of rtv, Too much or too little is not good. The FSM doesn't really specify prepping the surface, but from my experience, you don't want to polish or change the sealing surfaces by using a harsh abrasive. I personally prep sealant surfaces to be cleaned, using Loctite 7200 and scraping it off with a plastic detail razorblade.

When cleaning the sealing surface of the pan you may scrape off some of the factory paint and that's ok, just be careful not to actually polish the surface. You want to get as much of the old rtv off, but it doesn't have to be 100%. A tiny bit of residue will actually help it seal. Make sure you form the bead around the pan as stated in the FSM, I believe they also state a 2-3mm bead, with an approved rtv sealant. Follow that and you should be good to go.

I don't know how you sealed your pan, but just some advise to help you out so you can be leak free.

4g64t_dohc

I put a nice good bead of the rtv on my oil pan, I definitely didn't put too little. and as for using the wire wheel on my drill to get the rest of the rtv off, I didn't even scrape the black paint off the pan it just got the rtv off. Im really hoping it doesn't leak again, im not redoing it again for the 3rd time. I don't even have 500 miles on my motor yet and it's just one thing after another.

I'm possibly going to tap the little hole to a 7mm instead of the factory 6mm but so far it's not leaking..... yet. I was driving on it earlier and I see no new oil but guaranteed It will start again because that's just how everything with me goes

this car has been a headache since I got it and this build has been no different but anyhow,

my turbo oil drain AN fitting is also leaking, it makes no since it's $20 bucks for the dumb fitting and its going to leak?!?!?!? completely brand new along with the AN fitting that goes on the oil pan. Do you guys use sealant or liquid Teflon stuff?

Also im getting strange ware marks on my timing belt anyone else have this issue? for some reason the lower timing cover on the inside was rubbing on the timing belt and caused a ware line and now that I've been running the car without the timing cover on it to check for leaks, it's started to get a secondary ware line out of nowhere and nothing is touching it so hmm yeah strange right?

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

IIRC if the surface you are sealing the fitting onto has a chamfered hole, then you use the O-ring and the crush washer. If its not a chamfered hole then only use the O-ring. I believe torque was something like 9 Nm, so not a lot just snug down.

4g64t_dohc

? there's no o-ring or crush washer, it's an AN aircraft fitting. it's leaking at the little swivel point.

also idk what is leaking on my front end parts but it's obviously not my oil pan, it's "leaking" in the same exact spot it has since I started the car after the build. I don't get it, this is getting so annoying.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

By the "swivel point", do you mean where the line is assembled to the fitting?

Ya never mind that comment, I was thinking about something different.
The AN drain fitting adapter that bolts to the pan should just use a gasket..
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...proclassic.htm
link for reference.

As for if you can use Teflon on the AN fitting threads, I guess its not really recommended.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-ox...read-tape.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...flon-tape.html
quick search on google yielded this info.

4g64t_dohc

This is where it's leaking at.


and my front timing area STILL has oil coming from somewhere, I've replaced my oil pan rtv 3 times now and replaced my BRAND NEW oil pump seal again so obviously it's not that, ima just bring it to English and have them fix it because I can't figure it out.

galantman03

iTrader: (7)

if its leaking from there
A. its snug but not tight enough. sometimes when I put them on, they seem tight, but I have to wiggle the hose side till I cannot turn the an wrench any longer
B. Its bad

also. I find that chapstick on the threads (just a little) helps to ensure a smooth thread on with an aluminum an fitting to a steel oil pan adapter.

4g64t_dohc

Okay thank you and no it's definitely not loose at all, it's nice and tight. so I guess i'll be replacing it then because I see my oil pan right beneath it has oil spots on it and the fitting has a little pool of oil about to drip on my downpipe, when I drive sometimes and then stop at a light I smell burnt oil, and it's just falling right down onto the exhaust.

and an wrench? I've been using a cresent wrench to tighten that thing lol, is it maybe too tight then?

galantman03

iTrader: (7)

Yes, they make an wrenches so you don't mare or damage the nut. They're actually pretty handy. I think my set ran 60 bucks fits 3 to 16 an and cage with a holder too.
I actually cross threaded a 16 an weld on with a fitting because i didn't use lube haha. But what happened was it was super tight and I thought it was good, put some rad fluid, leak out dripping, Abba when i tried to take it off, i couldn't. I crossed threaded it putting it on, and mashed the threads up (galled) trying to remove it to where the fitting locked in place. I had to cut it off with a dremel

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

to do it the right way you should use a AN wrench. They are aluminum and they wont mar. Also, they don't have too much leverage to where you can over tighten them TOO easily. BUT, if you happen to have a nice set of open end wrenches that have that smooth coating finish on them, and you are careful, they can work just as fine.

here's some pressure test kits to test your AN lines before you install them.

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/inde...f0c082ad7bb497

Might be worth a shot to try and save yourself some headache next time you replace that fitting.

4g64t_dohc

Damn dude I just got through doing that on one of the bolts that holds the o2 housing on. I was swapping the factory one out for the JMF o2 housing and I somehow managed to cross thread the bolt about 1/4th of an inch and then it barley wanted to even come out, then I had to sit and pick out the threads from the bolt and go back over it with a tap, luckily the hotside housing on turbo's are cast iron so good luck ever ruining the threads but it was sure a pain in the ***.

I'll look into a -10 wrench, I don't need a whole set only the one, maybe I just tightened it too much and ruined the mating surface.

I wonder if oreilly's will warranty the fitting and just give me a new one lol

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

What made you determine that the oil pan was your culprit? I've been trying (failing) to chase a pesky oil leak for quite some time now with no success. I feel like the location of the leak is awfully similar.

I have pictures of my leak right here on page 6 of my thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ld-help-6.html

Looking at my pictures I find it hard to believe that my oil pan is the source of the leak. I feel like you have a similar issue so Im wondering what made you decide on that over something else?

4g64t_dohc

Well what got me thinking me thinking it was the oil pan is because when I first put the motor together/did my build, I messed up and used a felpro pan gasket and form a gasket and it leaked everywhere and the main area that leaked was right where the front case bolts to the oil pan, among other spots.

So I redid the gasket with 'permatex the right stuff ultra grey' and all the leaks went away except for the leak in the front so I pulled off my lower timing cover, untensioned my timing belt and pulled it out of the way so I could use break cleaner and get all the oil cleaned off. After that I made sure the tensioner still had a nice seal of form a gasket on the two bolts, no oil is even on that side of the case though. The tensioner bolts are obviously not the issue. Since the timing belt was off I figured I might as well take off the oil pump sprocket and check if there's oil on the inside walls causing it to kinda fling around a little, even though the front case is brand new and only has 400miles on it I replaced the oil pump seap just to he sure. I also checked the front main seal but for one I know its not that recluse theres no oil in the middle of the case nor behind the crank sensor plate. The oil is ONLY on the right side of the case from the crank angle sensor down. While the timing belt was off I also re gasketed the 3 bolts that hold the front motor mount bracket on. Even though nothing above the crank sensor is wet. So somewhere in that little area is the source of my leak. Ive checked all the front case bolts and none are leaking.

So after all that I got my timing belt back on and put my pulleys and serpentine belts back on without the lower timing belt cover so I can see better of where its leaking. After doing all stated above, I left the car on the jack stands and started it. Within the time it takes for her to warm up, there was a little bit of oil in the corner of the case right next to the oil pump and what looked to be oil coming out of the oil pan AGAIN in the same little spot. So I wiped it off and watched it basically show back up within a few minutes. I ended up pulling the pan AGAIN and redoing the rtv, let it set up overnight and I seem to still have the same tiny leak in the same damn stop. So now im really starting to think its not the oil pan and maybe the oil pump sprocket isnt sealing 100% with the seal. Or maybe well idk. Look at the pictures I posted that was BEFORE doing the pan again but you can see the oil slightly accumulating in that one little area below the bolt hole, bht whats throwing me off is somehow im getting oil in that little bolt hole above the crank angle sensor; that bolt hole is just for the lower timing cover.

So ive been driving a little on the car without the lower timing belt cover on there to see and it almost appears that the oil leak only happens under boost now because if I let it idle now there is no oil but if I go drive around for even 5 mins and then look at it between my fender well, there is a little bit of green oil that I see. I really just dont understand what can be leaking anymore it makes NO since.

And my best advice for your leak id say is to do the same I did, take off your timing belt (if you know how to set ur timing and all that fun stuff) and spray the **** out of your front case and sprockets with brake cleaner and make sure theres no oil on anything and re assemble everything but withiut your lower timing cover, start the car with it jacked up and lay under there and look hard for a leak or the source. But also leaving the case off and the black fender well cover means that you can kinda kneel down and look at it too even when the car is completely on the ground and not jacked up. Just dont drive in the rain without the lower cover on, you dont want a bunch of wet crap and debris to get in there.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

Is it leaking from the same corner where you said you stripped a bolt thread?


If the sealing surface of the pan and the block are good, you properly prepped the surfaces, you are using an appropriate rtv, you are applying the rtv in the pattern and thickness as stated in the FSM, and you torqued the oil pan bolts to spec, then I don't see why it should be leaking.


Just thought of something, you are aware that there are 2 shorter bolts for the oil pan, they go in the back for the rear main cover, iirc. If you mix those up you might have issues.


Hope you figure out your leak

4g64t_dohc

No it's not on the same corner it's on the opposite corner. the bolt that I ended up stripping is on the far left of the cover and it's leaking somewhere on the right, on the front oil case though. Like I said it's somewhere between the oil pump area and the crank angle sensor and in that little vicinity.

I think the oil pan is now ruled out, completely. the tensioner bolts are also ruled out, along with the headgasket, valve cover gasket and cam seals.

I'm wondering if the castle plug o-ring is maybe leaking and the turbulence from the timing belt is flinging it around in that little area? it's either that or the oil pump is leaking OR the front timing case that I bought "new" from rock auto is really junk and cracked somewhere.

and yeah I know those two smaller oil pan bolts are for the rear main part.