4g64t_dohc

Please read my whole post!

Okay so just a long story short, when I finished my build, my oil pan was leaking along with my sandwich plate on my oil filter housing, I replaced the pan gasket with ultra grey rtv and tightened down the sandwich plate. It stopped the leaks until my lower timing cover started getting damp again and trying to form a drip again, I took the timing cover off again and noticed oil coming from my tensioner bolts this time; I forgot to put form-a-gasket on them when I did the build, so I pulled them off and put sealant on them and cleaned the lower timing cover so there was no more oil on it, incase I had another leak I would be able to pin point where it came from.

I just got through doing my 250 mile oil change on my fresh motor from royal purple break in oil to Brad Penn 20w 50 and my oil pressure has finally went up to where it should have been at the whole time. just an fyi, the royal purple break in oil is too think for our motors and will cause lower oil pressure. after the car was warm at idle it was at like 10-12psi and I have a balance shaft delete. the Brad Penn at idle is 21psi.

anyways now that my oil pressure is a little higher both at idle and driving, ive started to get YET another leak coming from somewhere under the timing cover, except this time its coming from one of the 10mm bolts that holds the lower timing case on, which is what's throwing me in a loop. I haven't pulled the timing cover off yet but I know its not coming from the oil case, the oil pan, the tensioner bolts, my front main seal, the oil pump or the valve cover gasket. there's no oil on my upper timing cover, no oil on my timing belt or on my cam gears just a line of oil running down the outside of my lower cover from the bolt hole.

please help guys I need all these oil leaks fixed!

xRoguex

iTrader: (15)

I THINK one of the bolts going in to the oil pump case goes into an oil galley. It should be locktited or RTV'd just a tidbit.

4g64t_dohc

well when I had the timing cover off the last time I took off the oil case bolts one at a time and put form a gasket on them then torqued it down then on to the next so I really wouldn't think that is what it is but maybe.

is napa brand aviation form-a-gasket not able to handle oil pressure? maybe the bolts that have the form a gasket on them are still leaking?

and the bigger bolt on my oil filter housing where the crush washer goes, is leaking aswell. can that bolt be removed and the washer replaced without hurting the oil filter housing or do I need a new housing?

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

IIRC its not the tensioner bolt that needs to have sealant, but one of the bolts that holds the motor mount bracket. Its the middle or lower one I believe. I know that one specified in the FSB to have sealant, but I don't recall the manual stating to do anything special with the tensioner bolts.

4g64t_dohc

oh alright well the front motor mount bracket is right above where im getting that line of oil from so maybe that is whats leaking.

what kind of sealant would you use? or is form-a-gasket good enough?

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

I used thread sealant. Its a white liquid stuff. The service manual states just a sealant so I assume you can use RTV as well. Also I ended up doing all 3 of the bolts on the left side of the bracket just to be safe, although only the one in the middle is necessary I guess.

4g64t_dohc

Alright well yeah ill probably end up doing them all then too just to be safe. Can you access the bracket bolts without removing the timing belt and tensioner pulley or no?

4g64t_dohc

Okay I got my lower timing cover off and busted the damn right little ear off AGAIN, this is now the 2nd time this has happened to me. it's almost impossible to remove the lower timing cover without pulling the motor or taking off the front motor mount and the front and back mount and jacking the engine up.

Anyways, I got the cover off and put the serpentine belts and pulley's back on without the case and went driving around for 40 mins, got under boost quite a bit and did a few good pulls on the freeway, i got back home and jacked the car up and I don't see where the oil is coming from, it's just there. I just changed my oil from royal purple break in to Brad Penn 20w 50 a couple days ago and the oil that's behind the lower timing cover is green now not purple/dark colored which tells me obviously the new oil is leaking out now too.

FML.

well there's oil on my crank angle sensor,
oil on the bolt that holds on the arm of the tensioner pulley,
oil on the bottom of the power steering pump bracket,
and oil on the bottom lip of the oil pump front case on the right.

not enough to drip it's just a little wet with oil, but again like stated above, it's green (Brad Penn oil is green) and I JUST changed oil so I obviously have a leak for sure, but where?

there's no oil nor is it wet on the front motor mount bracket, so that rules out that bolt that goes through a oil gulley on the bracket, and the entire left side of the oil front case is completely dry, so it's not the balance shaft block off seal, and it's not my front main seal or else there would be oil beneath that as well and on the crank sensor plate.


the castle plug for the oil pump is dry along with the timing belt and where the oil pump pulley is, there's no oil on those either.

so wtf is leaking??? I don't get this guys help please, any ideas?????




oh and the big bolt on my oil filter housing seems to be leaking as well, can i take it off and replace the crush washer without ruining the housing? does it have a spring behind it or anything or is it okay to undo it?









I'll try and take more pictures maybe you guys will see something or think of something i'm not but this is after i went and drove around without the case, i can't see ANYWHERE where oil is coming from.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

It would probably be easier to keep the timing covers off, clean everything off and let it idle while you watch that area closely.

You can also buy some leak detection spray to make it easier. Ive used this stuff with success.

http://www.wuerth.co.th/homepage_en/...duct_Leak.html

4g64t_dohc

Okay I drove the car to work tonight and was getting on it pretty good on the way to work and then on the way back home aswell.

There is oil slightly to the left of the oil pump pulley on the oil cases' little ledge and also above the pulley on the crank angle sensor.

is this my oil pump seal leaking?

I seriously don't get this guys please give suggestions

If I use dye I don't see how that would help my case any since I already see it's basically just there and getting kinda flung around from the turbulence of the timing belt. also I have Brad Penn oil so it's green, its pretty easy to see anyways.

this is what it looks like after coming home from work and driving a total of 14.2 miles.

4g64t_dohc

Okay did some runs on Evoscan for about 2 hours either on the freeway.

before I went out I completely cleaned the front timing area from all the oil yet again, after I got back home this is what it looks like.

I can't tell if maybe the oil pump seal is leaking or does the bolts that hold on the crank angle sensor on go through oil ports or something? because the bottom bolt on the crank angle sensor is wet with oil but nothing above it. I don't get it. also the bolt hole that is for the timing cover has oil IN it. but there is absolutely NOTHING wet anywhere above that area so im extremely confused.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

It looks like from that above pic of the oil filter housing that the leak at that bolt might be your issue, or at least one of them. You may try re- torqueing the bolt, but worst case you may have to replace the oil filter housing gasket. When you do I would make sure you use an oem gasket and torque it to specs.

The big bolt on the oil filter housing is spring loaded, its the thermostat iirc. Either way, ya you can take it out its ok. Be careful not to use air tools. when you replace it replace the crush washers, and torque it back to specs.

The crank sensor bolts don't go through any oil galleries. they thread into the front cover only.

The last pic, that just looks like that's where the oil is collecting and puddling. In the other pics it looks like the oil is being splashed into that area, possibly by a pulley or belt, which makes me think more its coming from your oil filter housing area.

Tuxevo

iTrader: (8)

I'm going after the same leak. I found this thread.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...install-2.html
I also pulled my oil pump sprocket to see if there was any oil on the inside of it per another thread i found. If you search "oil leak" and "timing belt cover" you'll find this isn't a new issue.

4g64t_dohc

Okay thank you for your help and the oil filter housing I dont think is leaking because on the entire left side of the oil case where the filter housing is its entirely dry. The only parts that are wet with oil is the crank sensor and the right side of the case below the sensor and collecting on the bottom.

4g64t_dohc

just letting everyone who's read this thread know, it was my oil pan leaking, again...

so now I've re done it for the 2nd time and so far no leaks. The turbulence from the timing belt was splashing it up above, I took my timing belt off and my pulleys and oil pump sprocket and replaced the oil pump seal just to make sure it wasn't leaking but it wasn't the issue.

also while I was reinstalling the oil pan on the front oil case where a couple oil pan bolts go into, I ended up stripping one of them and uh yeah. so now my oil pan has only 18 bolts in it and im hoping it won't start leaking THERE. if you guys haven't figured out by now, I have absolutely horrible luck with everything.

but anyways...

I received my JMF o2 housing yesterday though and finally got the factory one off and that one installed, it doesn't sound really any different in my exhaust but im sure ill pick up a few extra hp with no restrictive housing now. I was wondering anyone who has the JMF o2 housing installed, did you end up using the flat metal gasket that came with the part or did you reuse the factory gasket? the flat metal one keeps the WG and Exhaust separate vs the factory gasket allows it to leak over a little since it just outlines the two.

I ended up using the JMF metal gasket. and I have no exhaust leaks so that's a plus.