I-beams on 4g64, do i need to do any block work?
#1
I-beams on 4g64, do i need to do any block work?
Hey guys i bought a 4g64 block that had eagle h-beams and im going for over 800whp so im going to swap out for I-beams and i read somewhere that some block work has to be done to run I-beams, is this true? Just looking for input before i put it all together and realize theres some issues.
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Yes, you need to clearance areas and castings in the block to run I-beams in a 4g64 2.4 build. I am running Manley turbo-tuff I beams (non-straight beam design) with arp 625 fasteners and had quite a bit of clearancing to do.
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ExViTermini- I'm curious to your results with the fp red 2.4. Was very much considering that turbo, breaking in my engine on the stock ported evo 9 turbo right now, fun, but would give up a little spool for more power.
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![](http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd437/trevis_henze/White%20Evo%20Alana/IMAG0302_zps44fa9b74.jpg)
ExViTermini- I'm curious to your results with the fp red 2.4. Was very much considering that turbo, breaking in my engine on the stock ported evo 9 turbo right now, fun, but would give up a little spool for more power.
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#8
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Only this needs notched nothing else: ![](https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1412582_725385667490951_1322553545_o.jpg)
3rd cyl from left to right. (cyl #3) the turbo tuff rod will hit the casting on the edge. just shave the entire lip off the side.
The cyls themselves do not need notched. only the notch on cyl #3 under (above in the pic) of the cyl #3
![](https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1412582_725385667490951_1322553545_o.jpg)
3rd cyl from left to right. (cyl #3) the turbo tuff rod will hit the casting on the edge. just shave the entire lip off the side.
The cyls themselves do not need notched. only the notch on cyl #3 under (above in the pic) of the cyl #3
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Yes, How much depends on if you go with the straight beam design or the standard design. I went with standard design and honestly would never do it again, if I build another one I would use the new straight beam design for stroker applications.
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I agree though, use the straight beam on a standard 150mm rod for a stroker or 2.4 for sure.
Thats what my pictures for. the straight beam design. heres a better pic pointing to the area im talking about also for others:
![](http://www.tscomptuned.net/_images/assembly/stephen/head/notch2-head.jpg)
Manley turbo tuff rods. If making a high rev 9500+ engine, then pay for the 625+ rod bolts also.
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