Evo 8 Almost Stalling/Oil Pressure
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Evo 8 Almost Stalling/Oil Pressure
I am getting random dips in RPM and oil pressure. Every once in a while it seems my car will try to stall itself and my oil pressure drops all the way down to 0 for a split second. My dash dims whenever this happens, so I'm not sure if it's an alternator problem or what. I have Kelford 272 cams, which have a decent lope, but I wouldn't think they'd cause the car to nearly stall. Any suggestions of what this might be?
I also have the infamous lifter tick, not sure if this could be an issue.
I also have the infamous lifter tick, not sure if this could be an issue.
Last edited by Lag is Free; Nov 27, 2013 at 04:05 PM.
#4
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could it be a loose connection (ignition...etc) somewhere that was fixed during the lifter cleanup? I am having a hard time believing an oil clog could cause an engine drop
Oil pressure is a function of rpm so its possible that as the speed drops the oil pressure drops. Also if the gauge resolution is low then its also possible that it reports 0 below a certain psig.
Did you have any voltage drop issues during normal driving or wot pulls? Did those symptoms occur during a specific event (idle?)?
Either way, glad you figured her out, and the reasoning is def an eye opener!
Oil pressure is a function of rpm so its possible that as the speed drops the oil pressure drops. Also if the gauge resolution is low then its also possible that it reports 0 below a certain psig.
Did you have any voltage drop issues during normal driving or wot pulls? Did those symptoms occur during a specific event (idle?)?
Either way, glad you figured her out, and the reasoning is def an eye opener!
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I'm thinking that you could possible be on the right track with an ignition issue. I was thinking that myself. I just changed my plugs a couple weeks back, so maybe pulling the coils on and off cleaned something up? Because I'm not exactly sure how a clogged lifter could cause that issue either, I just thought I might as well swap em' since I had a set laying around. Fix the tick, and kind of eliminate issues one by one.
Oil pressure was fine just driving around and WOT pulls. It happens/happened every time I let off the clutch after rapidly accelerating. If I accelerate, let the RPMs stay for .5 seconds, then release the clutch, it didn't stutter at all. If I were to get on it at least half throttle, then IMMEDIATELY let the clutch in, it'd cause it to take a nose dive.
I replaced them with a set I got from AMS a couple months back. I was going to wait till the end of winter to change em' out, but just thought I'd switch em' out and see if the problem was cured.
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/g...k-lifters.html -- hopefully they'll stay quiet for a while! I've heard the tick is just infamous in the 4G63s, I'll live with it if I have too... but we'll see if these do the trick.
Oil pressure was fine just driving around and WOT pulls. It happens/happened every time I let off the clutch after rapidly accelerating. If I accelerate, let the RPMs stay for .5 seconds, then release the clutch, it didn't stutter at all. If I were to get on it at least half throttle, then IMMEDIATELY let the clutch in, it'd cause it to take a nose dive.
I replaced them with a set I got from AMS a couple months back. I was going to wait till the end of winter to change em' out, but just thought I'd switch em' out and see if the problem was cured.
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/g...k-lifters.html -- hopefully they'll stay quiet for a while! I've heard the tick is just infamous in the 4G63s, I'll live with it if I have too... but we'll see if these do the trick.
Last edited by Lag is Free; Nov 28, 2013 at 03:19 AM.
#6
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you said problem solved. but based on your last response it seems like its not?
Its the idle air controller if you didn't fix it yet (tuning related). but i assumed you fixed everything because you said:
I was going to go with the GSC lifters, but just paid a fortune on OEM myself.
Its normal for them to tick a little. I noticed, when i went from Amsoil to Brad penn, the Brad penn made them tick more. (full synthetic vs semi)
Its the idle air controller if you didn't fix it yet (tuning related). but i assumed you fixed everything because you said:
Pulled my head and replaced the lifters. Problem solved.
Its normal for them to tick a little. I noticed, when i went from Amsoil to Brad penn, the Brad penn made them tick more. (full synthetic vs semi)
Last edited by tscompusa; Nov 28, 2013 at 03:07 AM.
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The issue has been fixed, sorry for the confusion. The damn holidays are frying my brain. I was reconsidering the way I worded that, I was just telling him that I'm fairly certain that's the reason it was dropping.
Yeah, I recently went from 10w30 VR1 to Royal Purple 5w30 (my brother got me the Royal Purple for my birthday) and the tick got a little bit louder. I'll definitely be switching back to VR1 after this 3000 has passed.
So far so good with the GSCs (with the massive 10 miles I've put on em!) not an ounce of noise, but who knows how long that'll last. Mind if I ask how much you paid for the stockers? OEM=Expensive, I've never fully comprehended exactly why that is.
Last edited by Lag is Free; Nov 28, 2013 at 03:25 AM.
#9
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Ah ok! Ya i was confused.
Ya OEM is a rip off. sometimes i buy stupid stuff.
Next time ill go with GSC myself also.
If you're really concerned with tick and noise give Amsoil premium full synthetic a try or something along those lines.
I don't think VR1 ticked as much as brad penn does either, so VR1 might be along the same lines as the Amsoil.
The semi synthetic brad penn definitely created more valvetrain noise in my car though.
Glad you got it all sorted out.
Ya OEM is a rip off. sometimes i buy stupid stuff.
Next time ill go with GSC myself also.
If you're really concerned with tick and noise give Amsoil premium full synthetic a try or something along those lines.
I don't think VR1 ticked as much as brad penn does either, so VR1 might be along the same lines as the Amsoil.
The semi synthetic brad penn definitely created more valvetrain noise in my car though.
Glad you got it all sorted out.
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Yeah, OEM is usually ridiculously over priced. Especially for those specialty factory only parts that cars just seem to have in one form or another.
Yeah, I've always ran VR1 in my cars, it's never steered me wrong. With turbo cars, having the potential of going through extra oil, I like to try and find something that my local shops have on hand. Which, is VR1 and Royal purple. *Tisk, tisk* for Utah not having a huge racing scene!
So, to steer the thread in another direction. I noticed that in your sig, you've got Highest HP Black. I'm considering doing a max WHP pump gas build and using the Black. Think this would be a good route?
Yeah, I've always ran VR1 in my cars, it's never steered me wrong. With turbo cars, having the potential of going through extra oil, I like to try and find something that my local shops have on hand. Which, is VR1 and Royal purple. *Tisk, tisk* for Utah not having a huge racing scene!
So, to steer the thread in another direction. I noticed that in your sig, you've got Highest HP Black. I'm considering doing a max WHP pump gas build and using the Black. Think this would be a good route?
#11
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I buy my oil at Walmat. They usually have some brand of synthetic on special. So, I've used a lot of various brands of oil. The one time I couldn't find the viscosity I wanted I went with conventional oil. I always change oil at 3000 miles and I've never done cams. The result is 90K and no lifter tick.
I've never done cams but should I decide to do cams I would go with new lifters at the same time. The lifters are worn into the cam, change the cam and the lifter is running internally in a slightly different place - a place that probably is sludged up.
I've never done cams but should I decide to do cams I would go with new lifters at the same time. The lifters are worn into the cam, change the cam and the lifter is running internally in a slightly different place - a place that probably is sludged up.
#12
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Yeah, OEM is usually ridiculously over priced. Especially for those specialty factory only parts that cars just seem to have in one form or another.
Yeah, I've always ran VR1 in my cars, it's never steered me wrong. With turbo cars, having the potential of going through extra oil, I like to try and find something that my local shops have on hand. Which, is VR1 and Royal purple. *Tisk, tisk* for Utah not having a huge racing scene!
So, to steer the thread in another direction. I noticed that in your sig, you've got Highest HP Black. I'm considering doing a max WHP pump gas build and using the Black. Think this would be a good route?
Yeah, I've always ran VR1 in my cars, it's never steered me wrong. With turbo cars, having the potential of going through extra oil, I like to try and find something that my local shops have on hand. Which, is VR1 and Royal purple. *Tisk, tisk* for Utah not having a huge racing scene!
So, to steer the thread in another direction. I noticed that in your sig, you've got Highest HP Black. I'm considering doing a max WHP pump gas build and using the Black. Think this would be a good route?
I used to run nothing but VR1. it is really good oil, and as you said its available at the store.
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We've only got 91 octane here in Utah unfortunately. I'm just looking for 450ish WHP and around 350 - 380 ft lb/s -- I hear the torque is what kills the stock internals. I may even tear the engine apart next Spring and build it for a monster E85 build. Who knows!! We've only got one E85 station locally and it's in another county, so that's the only thing holding that back.
I have an excellent platform to begin with, as my head is fully built. As well as full bolt ons. The only bolt on that I don't have is the 02 dump, which I'm not sure I even want, as it'd be a cop magnet. I just have a stock bottom end and I've heard horror stories about the factory connecting rods.
@barneyb -- yeah, I've read a lot of threads with people saying cams = tick... but, who knows how those jobs were done. That, and people that DON'T have ticking issues usually never chime in. Ticking doesn't annoying me much, it's just nice to have a car that's as quiet as possible.
I have an excellent platform to begin with, as my head is fully built. As well as full bolt ons. The only bolt on that I don't have is the 02 dump, which I'm not sure I even want, as it'd be a cop magnet. I just have a stock bottom end and I've heard horror stories about the factory connecting rods.
@barneyb -- yeah, I've read a lot of threads with people saying cams = tick... but, who knows how those jobs were done. That, and people that DON'T have ticking issues usually never chime in. Ticking doesn't annoying me much, it's just nice to have a car that's as quiet as possible.
Last edited by Lag is Free; Nov 29, 2013 at 07:17 PM.