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L19s... Do you re torque after heat cycle?

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Old Dec 3, 2013, 01:19 PM
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does this apply to regular arp studs or L11 only
Old Dec 5, 2013, 01:30 PM
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called arp. they said the head studs do not require re-torque and that they do not stretch and are re useable
Old Dec 5, 2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by itsmrrizz2you
called arp. they said the head studs do not require re-torque and that they do not stretch and are re useable
they are not reusable, ive reused them and had a head bolt stretch to the point of breaking when torquing.

$200 is not worth a new motor.

always re-torque, do not loosen when doing this.
Old Dec 6, 2013, 05:46 AM
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I know I didn't retorque the +625 headstuds and lifted the head a tad... retorqued to 110 lbft and went about my business, no issues since...
Old Dec 6, 2013, 06:05 AM
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I never re-torque them. Do it once and done.

I feel you can re-use them once. After that I would purchase new ones.


That is my $.02
Old Dec 6, 2013, 10:18 AM
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I asked this same question to Dan at Buschur when they installed my head studs. He said no, they should not need a retorque.
Old Dec 6, 2013, 06:27 PM
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Re-torque them if you want. I'm definitely not the only one who didn't. IMO backing them off then torquing them again is just asinine and makes no sense but maybe there's something I don't know.
Old Dec 7, 2013, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ch53avitech
Re-torque them if you want. I'm definitely not the only one who didn't. IMO backing them off then torquing them again is just asinine and makes no sense but maybe there's something I don't know.

The only thing I would guess by doing it this way as that by backing them out a little in the correct sequence, you are relieving any stresses between the head and the block surfaces so when you go to re torque them they supposedly will not be fighting any pre tension. By having them all loose when re torqueing its like torqueing a bolt with one nice smooth swing, vs already torqued and just re torqueing they are saying its like torqueing a bolt down with erratic swings, idk Im just theorizing.

I don't necessarily believe that and feel that backing them out is unnecessary, but I could be wrong.
Old Dec 7, 2013, 05:21 PM
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If you retorque, you need to loosen them first. A torqued fastener has resistance to moving from the friction generated between the nut and what it's seated against. The easiest way to explain it is an object in motion stays in motion, and an object at rest stays at rest. the fastener may be torqued to 90ftlbs, but because it's sitting still, the friction may require 105ftlbs to get it moving to make it go tighter. So if you're retorquing to 95, they could technically be loose, even though the torque wrench clicks. It's best to loosen them about 3/8 to a 1/4 turn, and then retorque. Just do it one at time so the head doesn't lift and leak coolant...
Old Dec 8, 2013, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
If you retorque, you need to loosen them first. A torqued fastener has resistance to moving from the friction generated between the nut and what it's seated against. The easiest way to explain it is an object in motion stays in motion, and an object at rest stays at rest. the fastener may be torqued to 90ftlbs, but because it's sitting still, the friction may require 105ftlbs to get it moving to make it go tighter. So if you're retorquing to 95, they could technically be loose, even though the torque wrench clicks. It's best to loosen them about 3/8 to a 1/4 turn, and then retorque. Just do it one at time so the head doesn't lift and leak coolant...
Makes sense. I understand the theory but I really see no sense in it.
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