mr evo7

hey guys my 2.3 build for my 2001 evo 7 will be finished in the next week i have a few things to ask


how many miles should the engine break in be?
. my engine builder says there is no need to run the engine in. so from the workshop straight on the dyno to make about 600 to 650whp (is this safe?)


i was told to get a fluid damper crank pulley is this necessary?

i will be using a DBB 6262 T3. should i use a 0.63 or a 0.82 hotside. (car is mainly used for street and drag)


my parts are as follows

Wiseco pistons 85mm
Eagle H beam rods
Cometic head gasket
Acl race bearings
OEM 4G64 crank
ARP main and head studs
Supertech black nitrates 1mm+ intake and exhaust valves
Supertech valve guides
Supertech valve stem seals
Gates timing belt kit
Oem water and oil pump
GSC S2 cams
Fidanza adjustable cam gear pulleys
Gsc race balance shaft
Kiggly springs and retainers
Walboro 400LPH e85 fuel pump
Aem fuel pressure regulator
Sparkteck non cdi ignition
Id 2200cc injectors
Exedy twin HD clutch kit
Act monoloc
Exedy throw out bearing
Tial 50mm BOV
torque solution front and rear engine mount
nrg engine torque dampner
omni power 4 bar map sensor

head has been ported and flowed
block has been sleeved
engine is under going balancing

car will run stock ecu tuned with tephramod v7

tranny has received a bushwaker trans and has been fully cryo treated

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

I have almost the same shortblock build. Break in is mainly for the rings and here's what I did. Get about 10 quarts of the cheapest non-detergent straight 30w oil or Brad Penn/ AMSoil break-in oil and several oil filters. Full it up and start the engine and give it some revs for about a minute and then shut it off. Change the oil and filter and go for a drive. Bring the revs up the 5k or so and let off the gas to let the engine slow the car down / pull vacuum, this will push the rings into the cylinder walls sealing them perfectly and engine braking going down hill will help a lot.

Do this a lot as soon as you can otherwise the rings won't seal properly and the only way to fix it is honing the cylinder walls again and installing new rings. Next, get the engine into a decent amount of boost to further help the seating process, I ran my engine hard on full boost for this. Do the engine braking and boosting for about 5 miles and then change the oil to whatever the engines tolerances require and the filter.

I personally installed a Fluidampr on mine and then had the rotating assembly balanced.

mr evo7

What turbo are you running? .

I will need to road tune the car so after following your instructions will it be safe to tune

tsidrift1

iTrader: (46)

There are many ways to break in a motor. I would honestly just do as the builder says. He knows the way he built the block, he should know how to break it in.

When I had a dsm and had the motor built, the guy told me to drive the car like I was in a hurry for the first 500 miles, then go all out if I wanted. I did change the oil like 3 times in the first 100 miles lol.


On my evo, I have a buschur 2.3. I started the car, let it get up to full operating temp, shut it down, changed the oil and filter. I cut the first filter apart to see if there was anything out of the ordinary. Then I went about 500 miles on that 2nd oil change. I was tuning at 40psi of boost at 400 miles lol. I know a lot of Buschur motors that are started and then thrown on the dyno.

Id do what your builder says.

mr evo7

I am abit scared of the break in period. . Am paranoid about it.

Any idea about turbo hotside

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

I'm using a Buschur FS635, it's a Garret BB 35R cartridge with a PTE 62mm compressor wheel and housing. A lot of cars do go straight to the dyno to be tuned to max power but I wanted to get any at the ring/cylinder wall particles out by changing the oil ASAP. If you use synthetic oil at 1st, it's too slippery to cause the friction needed for proper ring seating. The main thing to avoid is driving the car easy.

As for the hotside, I use a .82 and it works fine on the 2.3L. Your 6262 will make a slightly more power than my turbo with slightly later spool as yours has a larger turbine wheel.

meckert

iTrader: (11)

Break-in, Ask 10 people you will get 10 different answers... there is a least 1 more thread on this on this forum somewhere--. I am not of the school of thought that says beat on a new motor right off the bat-- and I have never had one fail or have excessive blow by. I think motoIQ did a piece on the fluid dampner as well, good piece or use stock. Think of it this way, you just dumped a ton of cash on this motor and you trusted the guy to build it. Shouldnt you at least consider his recommendations as to start up, break in and final parts.. just a thought.

mr evo7

My tuners says there is no break in needed.
He has built multiple 400 to 900hp evos and he says they all didn't need break in

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Break in is for seating the rings. You do that with cylinder pressure. In 3rd gear, do three pulls from 2k up to 5k at 1/2 throttle. Then do three more at 75% throttle letting the revs climb to 6k or so. Then do three more at full throttle, going to red line. allow the engine to decelerate the car in gear in between each pull. Every engine I've ever built has gotten that break in, and it has always done well. They never shows signs of blow by under the compression rings when they come apart for race prep after a season of racing...

Bcity

Why on Earth did you sleeve the block ?
What ever the reason I would be less worried about your break in procedure and a lot more concerned about your cylinder thickness and Eagle rods.
Of course maybe the machinist used some magical darton sleeve and gave them a insane amount of interference with anabolic steroids as a adhesive , also not forgetting to sonic test each cylinder before and after the machining process .
That been said
Pick any of the above advise for break in but ensure you use mineral not synthetic oil for the first drive/heat cycle.
the block should have been staged honed 200/400/ then plateau honed to finish.
This should remove any need for the "bed in" period

Good luck cuzzie , not long now and you'll be boostin

mr evo7

The pistons I got were standard size and the old sleeves were abit worn out so we chose to sleeve it with darlton sleeves. Eagle rods have been taken to 600whp. I am planning on making 400wkw which is about 550whp