charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of solid info on here about replacing the driveshaft carrier bearings (not the bushings that mount to the chassis). Last year during my inspection my guy questioned the slop in the driveshaft and I agree that its worth looking into. Im in the process of swapping to a 5spd and thinking about changing them.


Ive found this video explaining the process on a DSM


He's also got vids about the Lobro joint, but im not planning to do anything with that unless I obviously need to.


The part #s for the bearings appear to be
MR553202 Rear
MR553201 Front


A little over $100 total at mitsu parts. So definitely seems worth it to just do it now and also toss in some carrier bushings. The vid certainly makes it seem like a fairly easy task. Ive done U joints on Jeeps (with much more crude efforts than the vid above..), the Lobro is probably the only thing that I havent taken apart before.


Question is...have any of you actually replaced this on your evo? And does anyone know if there are any major differences between the evo and dsm carrier bearings?


Seems odd that most search efforts turn up folks saying they need to buy a new complete shaft for $$$, so Ive got to question the install...


thanks

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

The reason most people replace their shafts are the u joints are nonserviceable on the evos. Also I would replace the clips at least and also nuts if I were to do it myself. You may get away with reusing the stuff already on there but why not just do it right the first time.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

So we have different u joints than the DSMs?

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

No. Mitsubishi has been using the same u joints since the 80s on the lancers and galants back then. The important part is to get yourself a OEM u joint, as the aftermarket ones are hollow inside and can split on a hard launch.

I purchased an additional driveshaft for my Evo 6 and serviced the original piece. To replace the carrier bearings its simply a matter of literally bursting the rubber off of the center bearing and then using a puller to remove the race. The installation involves just using a hydraulic press to put it back on.

If you want to replace the u joints there's a cheaper way to do so using a DSM or vr4 tsb number that includes the yolk and the joint. Itll cost you less than just the joint itself. The bad part is you'll end up with additional yolks but they're always useful to plug up an old tcase.

Hopefully I've answered your question, haha

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

I guess I should also ask the question of how much movement is acceptable in the carrier bearings? Im reading that they are probably fine if the ribber isnt visually leaking or cracked. Should I assume that they are fine if its not making noise and not visually damaged?

Im working on the car tomorrow and will have a better idea of the condition. Can take some pics or vid if that helps.

thanks!

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

Err, in addition , yeah I believe that the DSM and 8 carrier bearings are different in terms of the shape of the mounting bracket. I know for a fact that the 6 bearings are different from the DSM. I'm 99% sure the 8 is as well, going off of diagrams and pictures.

I have not seen any reference to the part numbers for the 8 anywhere on the internet to be honest with you, but I stopped looking closer to two years ago when I got mine done.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

We posted at the same time. Thank you for the response!

So youre saying that the procedure is basically the same as the video above and OEM parts are available? If Im taking the U joints apart, Id rather just replace them.

Im going to hunt for some U joint part #s.

Can anyone else confirm that DSM/VR4 yolks/u joints are interchangeable?

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

You'll have a feel of the wear by simply twisting the rubber on the shaft after you've removed it from the car. The OEM pieces are fairly flexible in nature when in good shape so don't expect anything close to polyurethane stiffness. If they're not making any funny noises when you're driving and they don't appear to be rolling rough by hand, I would leave them in place.

The only reason I replaced my then 13 year old bearings was because they were squeaking and it was driving me nuts

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

It looks like the part #s I posted above for carrier bearings are correct for the ct9a.
http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/parts...&siteid=218241

http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/parts...&siteid=218241


If I can confirm that the ujoints are the same, I think Im good to go.

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

I haven't watched the video as yet, but I'd assume the process would be the same. I don't know if the yolk will be the same, but the whole idea behind the tsb is to use the u joint from the yolk piece, only to make the job cheaper. If you insist on buying the joint separately there's nothing wrong with that, only more expensive.

If anyone else is reading this, I would personally recommend upgrading to the torque solutions driveshaft bushings at the same time to reduce a lot of drive train slop. I've realized that the OEM pieces wear quickly in those places

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

2012/2013 winter I had a low speed squeal from under the car that matched wheel speed and only happened in really cold weather. Im guessing this is what it was. Whether thats enough reason to replace, who knows. Never have had any other noises that have made me question the driveshaft, so it may be fine.

I'll pull the whole shaft and inspect on the bench before jumping into it.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

Im planning on it.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

post like this is what has me hesitating....
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/9673797-post6.html

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

In my experience I've never seen a Mitsubishi vehicle come with a non serviceable driveshaft. Here's a non-oem joint over in the UK where I import my parts from. Again, go OEM here, not substitute replacement!

http://www.camskill.co.uk/m8b0s2340p...ution_7_8_CT9A

Edit: posted the link just to show you the joint clips

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

I hope you are correct. Its just odd that everyone seems to think different.

a few vendors have the recall yoke/u joint for DSMs, but show nothing like that for an Evo. Mitsuparts show it available, but dont list an application like they do for the carrier bearings.

the DSM part # for the yoke and shaft appears to be MR470072.

very much appreciated.

edit: so the only reason to get the recall kit is so I can get the OEM u joints for cheaper, right? Just pull them out of the recall kit and install in the stock yokes?