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Budget stroker motor

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Old Mar 13, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Budget stroker motor

Research tells me that this combination is road-worthy of at least 500HP reliably. I'm not sure the pistons are HDs. Seems like a decent build for the money. Opinions?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-2-3-Stroker-Wiseco-Pistons-ACL-Race-Mitsubishi-ECLIPSE-4G63-6-Bolt-86-mm-/251437067936?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a8ad12ea0&vxp=mtr

Last edited by av00va; Mar 13, 2014 at 07:19 PM.
Old Mar 13, 2014, 07:23 PM
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What are you planning on putting that in? It's for a 6 bolt 4G63. Look in the description.

Alamo is a reputable company. Most shops have a similiar budget stroker kit. Take a look around.

That would easily hold 500 whp. No problem. An aftermarket crank is not really needed tho for 500 whp. The stock mitsubishi cranks are forged. You could piece your own kit together using whatever parts you want using a 2.4 crank.

Last edited by Ag4G63; Mar 13, 2014 at 07:31 PM.
Old Mar 13, 2014, 07:34 PM
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I thought these two links were the same. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-2-4-L-Stroker-Wiseco-Pistons-ACL-Mitsubishi-Evo-7-8-9-4G63-7-Bolt-86-5mm-/231175785485?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35d3268c0d&vxp=mtr. This one fits a 7-bolt but I guess that's beyond the point..

I've done my homework on bottom ends but I'm still unsatisfied..
The crummy in-house search feature doesn't help.

Is a 100mm stroke too much for a reliable daily? Would destroking just a tad be beneficial or pointless? Say I go with a 100mm crank, what rods would be compatable? For instance, Do I go with standard 4G63s? What size pistons should I go with? Any other information I should know?

Any budget-friendly comments would be greatly appreciated
Old Mar 13, 2014, 08:14 PM
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So are you looking to make a 2.4 L or 2.3 L? For the 2.4 L you need a 4G64 block with a 4G63 head. To stroke the 4G63 you use a 100mm crank either aftermarket or out of a 2.4 L Galant.

You can use standard size rods (150mm) with either motor or a long rod (156mm) with the 2.4L. Pick the rods based on what horsepower you want to end up with. H beams are good to around 550 horsepower or so reliably. I beam rods will hold more power.

The pistons for the 2.3 L move the wrist pin up 6mm to make clearance for the extra stroke. 85mm is the standard bore size. The link you listed is a 0.060 overbore (86.5mm). You probably don't need to go that large, unless you really want to.

Why not try this kit from MAP and source your own OEM 2.4 L crank. It's forged straight from the factory.

http://www.maperformance.com/map-2.3...o-sk23-s1.html

Last edited by Ag4G63; Mar 13, 2014 at 08:24 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2014, 08:21 PM
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wow, that was exactly the information I wanted.. thanks

I'm going to retain the 4g63 block for costs sake since every penny counts.. even though throwing a rod in a 4g64 block wouldn't be much of an issue. Wait a minute.. how much is a bare 4g64 block anyway?

From what you're saying I only have to get custom pistons if I use a 100mm crank in a 4g63 otherwise you just match the pistons to the block.

Anyone have a preference on I-beams? I heard turbo tuff rods weigh a ton and longeivity is one of my concerns. What's the advantage of a 2.4L with "long rods"?
Old Mar 13, 2014, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by av00va
wow, that was exactly the information I wanted.. thanks

I may be new around here, but this isn't my first BBQ.

I'm going to retain the 4g63 block for costs sake since every penny counts.. even though throwing a rod in a 4g64 block wouldn't be much of an issue. Wait a minute.. how much is a bare 4g64 block anyway?

I couldn't say haven't looked into them

From what you're saying I only have to get custom pistons if I use a 100mm crank in a 4g63 otherwise you just match the pistons to the block.

Correct, but with the extra torque it will produce upgraded rods will be necessary for reliability.

Anyone have a preference on I-beams? I heard turbo tuff rods weigh a ton and longeivity is one of my concerns. What's the advantage of a 2.4L with "long rods"?

Basically long rods rev higher
See the link I provided above for a budget 2.3 L stroker kit. If you supply your own 2.4 L crank it's $1000. Obviously that doesn't include machine work or any of that, but you get the idea. It's all quality parts.

I have an Eagle/Wiseco 2.0 L 6 bolt with pretty much all the parts listed there so I know they work wonderful.

Last edited by Ag4G63; Mar 13, 2014 at 08:40 PM.
Old Mar 13, 2014, 08:44 PM
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Great link. Looks like I'll be saving on the MAP I-Beams. Maybe i'll even get them ceramic coated
Old Mar 13, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Brian Crower also has a 2.4L for the 4g63 7 bolt. I don't know anything about this kit or I haven't read about anyone using them but it is available.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...roductid=21102
Old Mar 14, 2014, 07:00 AM
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If you want a budget build, do a 64. You can source a 64 block for less than 200 bucks, use the crank in it, build it with some HD pistons and rods, sell your 63 block and you can have a nice build for 1000 bucks or so depending on who does the work.
Old Mar 14, 2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by evolve_VIII
If you want a budget build, do a 64. You can source a 64 block for less than 200 bucks, use the crank in it, build it with some HD pistons and rods, sell your 63 block and you can have a nice build for 1000 bucks or so depending on who does the work.
Not a bad deal at all if you can find a good core.
Old Mar 15, 2014, 07:36 PM
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so.. i've been told the 4g64 is weaker than the 4g63.. which is true if you compare the two stock but to me there aren't any significant differences. they both used forged cranks correct? that's the only part i'll be reusing besides the core itself. is the 4g63 head a direct bolt on?
Old Mar 16, 2014, 06:39 PM
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Search: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...evo-8-9-a.html

Both cranks are made in the same manner. They both hold up to big power. Mine is making 600+ and another friend of mine made 720 on a 6466 4G64 build.

The main issue with the 64 block is that it has a larger bore which makes the cylinder walls thinner and the gaps between the head gasket thinner and more prone to blowing a head gasket. If its built right and with good parts; this shouldnt be an issue. Im running the stock head gasket with L19 studs (retorqued after a heat cycle) running 45psi with no issues.

You cant rev as high because of the added stroke. I know some people do, but I dont rev past 8k.
Old Mar 16, 2014, 10:53 PM
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I built my 2.3L from parts I already had and works great. Standard Wiseco 9:1 stroker pistons, Eagle H-beam rods and OEM 100mm crank. It's fully balanced, has a Fluidampr and has seen 8.3k rpm for 16k miles. For a budget, whatever you find that's in good shape and the best price would be the way to go but that big of an investment, I would get the parts I wanted/need for the power goals.
Old Mar 16, 2014, 11:01 PM
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Since I'm tearing down the block I might as well put I-beam rods in it and a decent set of pistons. By budget I mean overall savings versus power and reliability. I told the shop doing the work I wanted to source a 64 block/crank to bolt on to my 63 head but they quickly downplayed the idea. I'm not saying they are misinformed, I'm merely saying our point of view is clearly different. From what I understand, the casting is more or less identical and the cranks are both forged. One lacks oil squirters but that is of minor importance. This would also give me the capability to turn around and sell a functional evo 63 block for what.. 3-500? That would effectively pay for the 2.4 crank but is it worth it considering I'd be in the market for a new waterpump? I'd also have to pray the timing is done right
Old Mar 16, 2014, 11:04 PM
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What's the life expentancy of a motor that is properly driven? I know this is the most subjective question ever but an average would do. A 2.3/2.4L has the higher stroke but of course it'd be built with quality internals. On the other hand it would see 500-600 WHP and some gruesome track days. I never beat on my cars but I expect them to perform. From what I gather, 30K more or less would be a good approximation


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