clanzkiller

I edited the thread with a shorter description.

Here's the video i recorded using my defi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sTbs...ature=youtu.be

FYI, as you can see when the fuel pressure rise close to 5bar, it was when i do a WOT to approx 6.5k rpm @ 3rd gear, (0.9sec of video), and continue shift to 4th gear (0.15sec). And lastly another WOT on 4th gear (0.24sec).

Internal engine was stock (with balance shaft). Only thing that changed was aftermarket oil cooler with relocation kit, mazda oil filter (due to sensor adapter).
Motul 6100 15w50
Things that were already checked:
- swapped fuel and oil pressure sensor
- bypass oil cooler directly
- brand new oem oil pump (do affect a lil, won't be dropping that fast)
- no particles when we remove the oil pan and inspect
- no damaged on the oil pan

swapping to another oil filter housing soon. Any other reason that may caused this problem, please let me know so we could take a look at it.


------OLD DESC-----

Hey guys, i need some help here, especially anyone that using GSC s1 cam.

History 2012-2013 (Short version)
Mod: Wallbro 255lph FP, Sard FR, Kinokuniya 20g billet fin, Greddy type-s bov, GSC S1, Ogura super single clutch.

Previously i had a spun bearing and rebuilt the engine with aftermarket part. After few months, spun again so decided to buy an used engine only.

Few months back just transplanted to another engine. Everything runs good. But didnt drive past 4000 rpm due to untuned condition, as it is my daily ride, so i just drive her casually slow.
Few days ago, decided to install the GSC S1 cam into it and go for dyno tuning. During the dyno tuning base run, we noticed that the oil pressure reading from Defi was dropping at higher rev. (I've seen lot of related thread but mine is slightly different so might as well do a new thread). Reading as below
1000 to 3000 rpm @ 6 bar.
3000 to 4000 rpm @ drop from 6 to 5 bar
4000 to 5000 rpm @ drop from 5 to 4.5 or somewhere.
And thats all we notice and we decided to stop the dyno tuning.

My previous transplanted didnt include ECU so the setting was based on the previous one before the last aftermarket spun bearing happened.

FYI, idle oil pressure is at 1.9 bar. Cruising at highway 100km/h / around 2.5k rpm @ 6 gear @ 5 bar.

Thought of the aftermarket oil cooler, so do a direct connection without oil cooler and the pressure still drop like before.

Knocking is quite visible at 2000-3000 rpm range in every gear especially going uphill. (Do not have this issue with the previous engine, same mod but unfortunately something goes wrong and spun bearing. Suspected oil pressure too but i dont have a reader to read the pressure that time)

Also noticed a louder lifter tick. I dont think is rod knock as i had experienced rod knock twice so i am very sure that is not a rod knock. (Well just ignore it as my mech did not bleed the lifter).

Q: Did it happened before i install the cam?
A: I am not sure as i didnt drive pass 4k rpm as mentioned earlier as i dont want to do any damage to the untuned engine.

Now my main question to all of you,
Q1: has anyone using GSC S1 cam having similar problem? Or is it common? Such as drop of oil pressure at higher rpm?

Q2: Will my previous damaged engine affect anything on the cam shaft and maybe a little out of shape?

Q3: How long roughly can a daily driven evo ix oil pump last? I know is kind of subjective and the factors is alot but i just want to get some idea out of it.

Q4: will camshaft affect the oil the drop of oil pressure at higher rpm?

I really hope i am not getting another worn bearing as it would be my 3rd time in less than a year and i think i had enough of that. Please help.....

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

I have seen a car with dented bottom oil pan that caused starving at oil pick up tube at high RPM. Your engine may not ahve this problem but it's worth a look.

APEXR

iTrader: (5)

I know this isn't going to be very helpful but, I'm probably one of the few you'll find running S1's as most people go with different cams. Having said that, I've had mine in for 30,000 miles now & never experienced any oil pressure problems. Or any problems for that matter. Sorry I couldn't be more assistance.

Benja

Are you running balance shafts or an eliminator?

clanzkiller

Thanks mate for your replied. No worries. I can't find any problem reported with that cam too beside the first batch that appear to have manufacture defect few years ago and were rectified. So i have no idea if my current issue has something to do with the cam, but it happened after the cam installed. Had a faint knocked again this time, but can't conclude if it were the bearing cause it just knocked so differently from the previous 2 times that i had spun my bearing. Let's say i heard the knocked sound at 2k rpm, then sometimes i dont hear it at 2k, instead, 4k. And when i am cruising @ 100km/h for example, i neutral the gear, my RPM dropped to 1.2k+-, and the sound appear on and off. So had no freaking idea what was wrong.

Thanks for your output, is worth a check since is free and easy. Will do once i have time to send the car and jack it up.

Stil running balance shafts i supposed as nothing has been done to the engine yet beside changing ONLY the camshaft and the cam seal.

meckert

iTrader: (11)

If your swapping motors without changing the oil cooler after a spun bearing your likely transfering the bearing crude from motor to motor causing your issue, Oil Pressure drops at rpm is usually a tell tale sign you have a bearing going bad-- personal experience is a 10psi drop as cruise-- knock may only show up in low rpm at first then will become constant. Unless the cam install was done poorly and I am not sure how you do that but it shouldnt be your issue. Good luck

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

^ Yeah.
Did you replace the oil cooler after rebuilding the engine?

clanzkiller

Forget to mention. Oil cooler was changed to new aftermarket after i bought this used engine.

Tomorrow will be going over and open up the oil pan to check for the oil pump and bearing clearance. I might be consider swapping back the oem cam and just drive it like that. I had spent too much unreasonable amount for the repairing with a mostly stock engine, i think i am just being plan stupid to keep it but i just cant let it go because of the handling.

barneyb

I'd do a little simple experimenting, maybe a waste of time but little cost. Does it do it if overfilled with oil? Does it do it with a different oil filter? Does it do it with the oil cooler bypassed?

clanzkiller

Yes it still happened even with bypass oil cooler.

Havent tried overfilled yet. My dipstick was at the maximum lvl now. Should i add more and see?

Havent tried with diff oil filter. I am using mazda short oil filter as i got an adapter for the sensor so i cant use the mitsu filter which is kinda long.

Thanks for your input. But may i know what are the reason of doing it?

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

Could be an issue with running a mazda oil filter. ditch that sandwich plate, connect your sensors directly to the oil filter housing, and run the correct oil filter.

clanzkiller

I have 2 sensors. 1 for oil temp and another for oil pressure. Is that possible to do that?

clanzkiller

Ok found the place to mount the sensor at the filter housing. But the problem is that i need to custom the screw to fit both of the sensor. It is not available in our country .

clanzkiller

Hopefully this is the caused of it. Meanwhile i am taking out the cam and go for oem, bleed the lifter, and drive like that. Don wan any more trouble

APEXR

iTrader: (5)

I don't know if you can get your hands on them but the Amzoil EA15K13 oil filter might be a bit better than the Mazda one & will fit with your oil block adapter for your sensors. Good luck.