Which is a better intake system?
#17
only problem is kansai is 400 bucks... for a box..., get CUSTOM! there's a concept, just get some 3" mandrel bent tubing and route the thing into the fender. won't cost that much, but this is only if you're not running maf anymore, if you're still running maf... ultimate racing makes a cold air intake with maf so you can try that one too.
#19
as long as it has a less restrictive pipe and a K&N filter or some variance of a K&N....i would think that they are all pretty much doing the same thing....
If you are having such a hard time picking an intake....and you are comtemplating between a $100 intake and a $400 intake....just remember...you are probably talking about a 2-3 hp difference max....
focus on the important things like the turbo....cams....clutch.....the things that really make a difference on the way your car performs...
which intake to get is the least of your worries...just get one that you think will be reliable at a resonable price......
spending over $300 on an intake seems absolutely rediculous to me...
just my .02
If you are having such a hard time picking an intake....and you are comtemplating between a $100 intake and a $400 intake....just remember...you are probably talking about a 2-3 hp difference max....
focus on the important things like the turbo....cams....clutch.....the things that really make a difference on the way your car performs...
which intake to get is the least of your worries...just get one that you think will be reliable at a resonable price......
spending over $300 on an intake seems absolutely rediculous to me...
just my .02
#21
you could spend $20 at home depot and get the same result as RS intake or even better.
I think utilizing the stock air box with open element filter is the best way to go. ARC is good, because it's basically like the stock system, but it just holds a lot more air and funnels a lot faster I think.
I agree, $300 for an intake is rediculous if you don't have 400whp +. Then again, if you have 400 whp, you'll probably want some other way to introduce air.
I think utilizing the stock air box with open element filter is the best way to go. ARC is good, because it's basically like the stock system, but it just holds a lot more air and funnels a lot faster I think.
I agree, $300 for an intake is rediculous if you don't have 400whp +. Then again, if you have 400 whp, you'll probably want some other way to introduce air.
#22
i definitely have to question your opinion... the arc box isn't cold air induction... and the only thing it does like the stock box is look like it. the panels everywhere take air from all directions... including the hot ones and it doens't keep things quiet like the stocker (although that might be desireable).
#24
the aps intake is nice my west la friend has it,,do you(bulocal) think the distance the air has to travel affects performance compared to gains from incoming tempature??
its also damn expensive how about rnr as comparison??
its also damn expensive how about rnr as comparison??
#25
well, cold air is basically a dense air. What you want to do is hold as much air in the box to compress the air before it gets sucked into the turbo and through IC.
There is another theory of air travel which noone could get, which describes the air travel bounce between the time when the throttle body opens and closes. It's basically measuring and nailing the time the air travels back to IC, and back to throttle body when the throttle body closes and opens.
what you want is a ram air with air tunnel that keeps the air flowing freely.
If you noticed on the stock box, on the bottom of it, there is a small air opening. That helps the ram air to get into the box without encountering turbulance.
I say ARC intake box, because it funnels the air a lot better and holds the air so it could be compressed, hence cold air.
I think it embodies the open element filters and ram air box in one simple package.
It's good when a hot air (fast moving oxygen molecules) could get trapped in a space to stop moving (slower moving oxygen molecule=cold air) and pack to go into turbo.
Just my .02 C
There is another theory of air travel which noone could get, which describes the air travel bounce between the time when the throttle body opens and closes. It's basically measuring and nailing the time the air travels back to IC, and back to throttle body when the throttle body closes and opens.
what you want is a ram air with air tunnel that keeps the air flowing freely.
If you noticed on the stock box, on the bottom of it, there is a small air opening. That helps the ram air to get into the box without encountering turbulance.
I say ARC intake box, because it funnels the air a lot better and holds the air so it could be compressed, hence cold air.
I think it embodies the open element filters and ram air box in one simple package.
It's good when a hot air (fast moving oxygen molecules) could get trapped in a space to stop moving (slower moving oxygen molecule=cold air) and pack to go into turbo.
Just my .02 C
#26
In other words, cooler air in = cooler air out.
I had an open element filter in my 98 GSX and did some datalogs. With no ram air or heat shielding, air intake temps would go as high as 135F at WOT. All the heat from the engine bay would hit the filter, especially when the radiator fan turns on. After I shielded off the air filter and built a cold air duct directly to the filter, my air intake temps were always ambient. So depending on ambient air temps, a cold air setup should give you 50+ degrees of cooler intake air! Does common sense tell you this isn't going to make a difference??
BTW, the 2g ECU gives an extra degree of timing if air intake temps are below 84F. I would guess the EVO's ECU does the same thing. So if you want that extra degree of timing, I would suggest you have some sort of ram air setup.
I had an open element filter in my 98 GSX and did some datalogs. With no ram air or heat shielding, air intake temps would go as high as 135F at WOT. All the heat from the engine bay would hit the filter, especially when the radiator fan turns on. After I shielded off the air filter and built a cold air duct directly to the filter, my air intake temps were always ambient. So depending on ambient air temps, a cold air setup should give you 50+ degrees of cooler intake air! Does common sense tell you this isn't going to make a difference??
BTW, the 2g ECU gives an extra degree of timing if air intake temps are below 84F. I would guess the EVO's ECU does the same thing. So if you want that extra degree of timing, I would suggest you have some sort of ram air setup.
#29
i htink that's why it does come with ram air... but i guess you mean ram air directly from outside, since the snorkle thing only diverts air from the bumper, something like a cwest or that weird bumper on the puma evo will get you true ram air.
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