What would happen if you did an event with no hood? :P

 

More drag, but better for the engine/turbo/intake.

Wouldn't you rather tune when it is super heatsoaked, high heat. So when you get to the track, you know the tune can handle it.

Instead of tuning in ideal conditions, cold air blowing, letting it cool down between runs. Yes, you will make more power this way, but what happens when you romp it all day long at the track 20-25min of wot, you think it will handle it? Probably not. So if it makes 400whp in harsh dyno conditions, you know its not gonna be any worse at the track. Versus 430whp on dyno, but really...you are really making 400whp at the track from all that heatsoak.

You want to make as much power as safely as possible so that you know you can romp on it all day long without worries. So if it means 24psi, then it is 24psi. Some people tune 33-35psi+ for street. That wont last 1 bit at the track. Not even 1 hard session.

 

The name of the game for the motorsport i do is reliability, not maximum hp. This isn't drag racing or on the street ripping here and there. The only thing tougher than what i do would be a straight up 30min sprint race or 1hr race. I need it to last all season with zero issues and zero worries. It needs to handle 5 sessions a day 20min session all day long for the entire season, if it can't then it needs to be dialed back down so it can withstand those stresses.

 

....but it hasn't even last at all the last couple events, right?

Tuning with the hood closed and all heat soaked on a dyno with small airflow isn't the right strategy in my opinion. Remember you have a great amount more air flow going into the car on the track. Yes it still gets heat soaked, but in a different way. Just tune the car conservatively with knowledge and make sure you log on track to fine tune it. Don't run a ton of boost and don't run a ton of timing, but make sure you run enough timing to keep EGT's in check. It's a balancing act.

If you are looking for a reliable track turbo, find one with the least compromises in flow in the castings. I wouldn't even look at ATP turbos to be honest.

Then honestly you are using the wrong car. Turbocharged heavy awd sedans make a ton of heat. You can make it semi reliable but it's never going to be a 24/7 365 all day err day don't worry about it car.

 

I might have went a little far on the dead reliable, maybe it was my frustration coming out. But definitely alot more reliable than before. I ran 27.5psi. I guess that is too much. Maybe need to run 25psi or less.

I guess i stand corrected on the dyno tuning procedure with the hood closed comment.

I am very tempted to get a miata to track instead for next year. For that 24/7 reliability I am after, so i can just drive.

 

Like I said on Facebook, i've seen a good amount of people run better times with less power.

I understand you are frustrated. Trust me, I know the feeling. Why don't you set the car up with lower power and a ultra conservative tune and drive the car and see how you feel and how it does?

I'd also say you would be even more frustrated with a Miata. Yea they are tempting but man they are slow in reliable form. When is the last time you drove one? Even the turbocharged ones (not as reliable) are slow as ****.

 

The gtx wheels aren't an older design. The gt3076 was designed in the early 90's. This same wheel was used heavily in the aftermarket under different names. It is a BCI-18C wheel, if I recall correctly. Same as the 50-trim used in the original DSM FP Green turbos from 15 years ago. Of course, there is also the original 50-trim for the 70's that is a turd.

The gtx stuff is post '08.

Just because they used full height blade designs in the '60s doesn't mean the gtx is based on that old design.

 

If you do decide to do something other than a stock frame turbo, I suggest you look at the EFR 8374. My buddy has one on his 2.3L Evo, and its amazing to drive. Instant spool with capability of making 700 whp.

 

I drove a miata racecar in 2012 during a chumpcar race at buttonwillow in 120F heat (literally). 1hr stints. 2 separate stints. Almost passed on on 2nd stint. It definitely worked me over. It was pretty fun dicing up with other people.

I do agree it would be super boring for HPDE or Time Attack or Time Trial. But if i was racing, it should be pretty good cheap fun. Definitely alot more seat time.

Yeah...so im thinking this time around tune to 420whp or so. Also if you were to pick, would you go with a GTX3076R or GTX3576R on E85 if boost is kept around 24psi. Yes i know you said to stay away from ATP, but at the moment that is not an option.

 

If and when I have $5500 to blow on a turbo, I think a BW EFR 7670 would be more perfect than the 8374. I feel that might bee too big and overkill. I don't want more than 500whp on a Mustang dyno...around 565 on dynapak or dynojet.

There is a guy on a 2.3L with 7670 who made 637/538 dynapak and it looks REALLY nice.
Here is the dynosheet.


Ridiculous right. 4000-8000rpms. WOW.

 

umm yeahhh...

 

That's a kill-mode tune which is what you don't want. 500 whp DJ would be a conservative E85 tune for a 7670. At any rate, the EFR turbo has to be driven to be appreciated. My buddy's 2.3L 8374 was like nothing I had driven before. I'm sure the 7670 would be even more amazing on a 2.3L motor.

For sure its big $$ compared to a stock frame replacement, and while its also going to be more expensive than a non-stock frame GTX3576R kit, its probably only about $1000 more. Anyhow, I'm just tossing that out there. If its out of your price range, then I think ATP is what you are going to end up with.

 

I am not sponsored by ATP, can't disclose pricing, but it is less than retail. I can't say how much. Less than $5500 though. lol.

 

watched two evos with built 2.3L motors and aftermarket turbos struggle with various issues at the track all weekend (all high end shop stuff)...end result was one blown turbo and the other to still be determined.

the guys having no issues are on stock motors/built 2L and either stock 9 turbos and one CRBD turbo in my neck of the woods (NASA TT cars)

 

I figured as much for the stock frame ATP GTX turbos. Buy it already. Well, its either that or consider the new FP single scroll turbos, but those are $2650 (lots of little adders) + the cost of a downpipe. I guess you could sell your existing DP and O2 housing to make up for the cost a bit.