There's a supplier out there that's got an error in their evo 8/9 acd pump rebuild kit. The plate is too thick and will cause you major headaches when you go to put the pump back together with their rebuild kit plate. The pump head won't seat properly and the bolts will end up binding the gear in place. You'll power the pump and you won't hear the motor rotate. The OEM plate is ~2.5mm thick and the rebuild kit plate is ~2.75mm.

The vendor is from Canada. I sent them an email about this. I'm not trying to throw stones but it was frustrating wasting a lot of time trying to solve the problem.

Is it possible the Evo X ACD pump plate is thicker than the Evo 8/9's? Maybe I was shipped one of those in error? Mits figured they'd warp less? shrugs.

Just a heads up. Maybe just ask them to measure the plate before purchasing the kit.

If some could verify that oem plate thickness I think that would help.

 

They know about the issue and don't care. So don't buy a rebuild kit off eBay if the seller is in Canada. I will have kits soon (1 month tops) and will use titanium plates (never corrode again) and viton orings and my kit will be less then the eBay ones for way better quality. I will also become a vendor on here so you all know that it will be legit and such. I've been meaning to do this forever and now that those east coast guys are done I'd say its time

 

Bumping this thread as my pump is showing signs of failure. Where are people getting their rebuild kits these days? I found the following kit and everything looks great however this thread is deterring me from pulling the trigger given that its on ebay and coming from Canada.

Is this a reputable supplier or are people using different kits? Thanks in advance!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PREMIUM-Mitsubishi-EVO-4-9-ACD-pump-rebuild-kit-/321833045958?hash=item4aeebe8fc6&vxp=mtr

 

actually the plate thickness has no relation to pump binding... pumps bind when rebuilt in two cases:

1. the plate hasnt been properly ground flat
2. people sand down the pump body (the part where the gear sits) trying to clean it..

 

Hey so glad you chimed in just the person I was hoping would reply!!!

So thats good to know. Do you have any experience with that specific vendor? If not can you point me in the right direction as to who I should source my parts from?

As for cleaning the body of the pump what's the best way to go about that without further damaging the surface and causing it to bind? I've got a blasting cabinet so would that be a good idea or will sand get into the pores and clog things up? Any additional feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks again!

 

no experience with these guys... I have stopped supplying the kits since my US distributor started doing something else but I have some stock leftover in the US... if someone else is interested in doing it...

as for cleaning the pumps..

I never bother cleaning them on the outside, just degrease them so that the silicone can adhere properly.

on the inside.. the part where the gear sits shouldnt be touched. The gear clearences are defined by the machined depth of the part where the gear sits and you shouldnt touch that part.. just clean it with a plastic brush and solvent. You can use sandpaper on the outer edge to clean the edge from corrosion. Basically do as in the video.. use some sharp chisel to cut off the stuck parts of aluminum plate..

As for pumps binding.. I have come across this a couple of times. There are two causes IMHO. FIrst, some pumps do not have the right tolerance from the factory. This is not so much of a problem with aluminum plates as the gear just grinds into the plate and works... I have seen several plates like this. The problem arises when you put in a steel plate and then the gear cant grind it itself..
Second is when the new steel plate is not flat for some reason... This is why I always ground them flat after laser cutting... just to be sure..

So, if you have a pump that is binding do as follows..
1. check that the plate is perfectly flat, and even use some 800 grit sand paper on a some really flat surface and sand down the plate again by moving it on sandpaper... this will show up the high spots if any.

2. You can use the fine 1000 grit sandpaper and grind down the large pump gear on it.. until it stops binding... be very carefull about it you do not want to increase the pump clearence too much..

also, check for stupid things.. like dirt in the pump gears and misplaced orings..
if the pump is running but not producing pressure, you have either turned the plate wrong way, or the pump cant pull the first cc of fluid and needs some help..

 

Great thanks for the additional info! I rewatched your video again last night to freshen up my memory of how it comes apart. Seems pretty straightforward and is just a matter of paying close attention as to how it comes apart and making sure it goes back together the same way.

I was getting the 3 light error on Sunday racing but it hasnt been back since Sunday so Im guessing it was due to the heat. The pump is probably on it's way out but Im hoping its not heavily corroded such that I wont have to cut it up and spend hours on end chiping away at it. Sharp chisel seems to work quite well so thats most like the route Ill be going.

I will be sure to check the flattness of the plate once I receive it. I dont have a dial indicator or anything fancy like that but I can pop on down to my local machine shop and use one of his flat working surfaces as I dont trust my tables

The plan is to go through it with a fine tooth comb and see if anything looks amiss and just clean everything up as best as I can. Fingers crossed it wont fight me too much as its not yet completely failed so the plate has probably yet to seize like some of the pumps you've done.

Do you have any torque specs that you can share or am I just going for tight? And lastly what kind of grease are you spraying in there with that fancy grease pen of yours? I have no experience with that type and dont want to just start squirting in lithium grease or dielectric grease if its the wrong stuff to use...I plan to seal around the edges with silicon so I just need to establish what the proper grease would be to use on the internals like you used in the video.

Thanks again for all of your help!

 

just normal lithium grease.. anything will work really.. grease is there just to stop water going in..

it is not rocket science.. it is just a matter of cleaning well so that the plate sits flush..

note the plate and pump body orientation... I still manage to turn the plate or the body wrong way round.. LOL

 

Thanks again for all of your help! I just wanted to confirm the grease as yes, while its there to act as a water barrier I wasnt sure if certain grease would break down once introduced to ATF fluid.

The project looks straight forward and as you said I just need to keep a close eye as to orientation of the plate and pump as well as all the small pieces that come out of it.

Really appreciate your help; my rebuild kit will be here on Monday but not sure when I'll have time to pull it apart but when I do I will report back with hopefully a success story

 

Any updates on these ebay rebuild kits?

 

Sorry no updates yet. I received the kit in the mail and it looks to be of quality but I just bought a house and haven't had any time to overhaul my pump. Once I find some I will update this thread.

I will say that the person I exchanged emails from was prompt to respond to my questions and shipped the kit out quickly and took about a week to arrive so there shouldn't be any concerns from that end. Of course if the kit doesnt work then its a moot point but Im told he's overhauled a bunch of pumps with the exact kit so Im sure it'll be fine.

 

Hey mate would you sell me one of your rebuild and bleed kits shipped to Aus?? I'm pretty keen to buy one and can't seem to find the bleeding unit you have for sale anywhere else.

 

Sorry for updating this old thread but I have to mention that the kit I ordered off ebay worked. The thickness of the plate did not effect the operation of the pump. I had the plate in the wrong orientation. which is why it wasn't working initially. I apologize for any heartache this might have caused the vendor or people trying to fix their ACD pump. cheers.