rev matching destroyed my clutch?
Mar 8, 2004, 08:28 PM
#33
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since the only thing have an oem tranny installed by the dealer is the warrenty... and since the warrenty has proven to be worthless... would it be cost effect to get an aftermarket tranny and clutch, and have it installed at a performance shop?
Mar 8, 2004, 08:30 PM
#34
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There was a thread around here that a new rebuilt tranny would cost you some $2k
I still wouldn't let Mitsu get away with this.
edit... maybe it was even cheaper - $1k
Do a search
I still wouldn't let Mitsu get away with this.
edit... maybe it was even cheaper - $1k
Do a search
Mar 8, 2004, 08:32 PM
#36
what i think Go to different dealer. thats BS. batty i toatlly agree with you man, I mean look guys THERE Is almost about 91.5% they void our warranties ok correct me if iam wrong..but how many posts youve seen here - like OK MECH DID good job. no question ask, there is always exit either way to void the warrranty, abuse? OK now let me make a point- if i would DRIVE A ****IN Mirage or non turbo mitsu (iam just trying to make a point here not bashing other rides in anyway) - ok..stock, TRANS would brake... I BET 10000000000000000000000000% they would replace it without a problem. do a re-search for sure they want too much.
Mar 8, 2004, 08:38 PM
#37
I say call mitsu directly! Contact a lawyer and tell them keep the ****ing thing on the rack.have a lawyer contact them. I bet if you would go through the records they have replaced other cars trans no problems. but since its a EVO . well u know.
Mar 8, 2004, 09:05 PM
#39
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Mitsubishi has the worst, most discriminative warranty policies towards the evo and the dealerships only harshen mitsu's official policies I'm sure. with all the stuff thats being done to my car this week (look at sig,) my warranty is pretty much voiding everything. I say F*** them. Go aftermarket with higher quality components. They are impossible to deal with. I agree with everyone else about getting a lawyer.
Mar 8, 2004, 09:05 PM
#40
also i almost forgot i would like to share with you little story about my friends 99 SS Camaro: there was some tranny problems because someone abused from the begining and sold the car - trany brakes there was no 3rd gear he goes to the dealer, the dealer says VOID - why its void?its still original warranty BECAUSE the car was abused WTTTTTTTTF!, so he was about a month without a car fighting, lawyers, nothing - they said 6000 TO FIX the tranny yep 6000 dollars US. HE GOT MAD - so finally he decided to take the car and pay 1000 so they can put everything back to stock, (LOL) Hmm Bolts were missing, Y pipe was missing he got it back - ECU was on the rear seat. everything was inside of his car flying allover - EVEN they did not tight the motor. - there was a shop few miles away they are fixing v8 power plants - they charged him $2000 to fix it.
Mar 8, 2004, 09:19 PM
#41
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Originally posted by budlong
they are saying when you rev match, the clutch spins faster thus heating up and destroying the clutch...
they are saying when you rev match, the clutch spins faster thus heating up and destroying the clutch...
rev matching is standard operating procedure on a standard and the evo is no exception.
shove this up their ***, bud. you paid too damn much for your car to tolerate this. if this is SCM you are dealing with, they replaced my transmission at 1800 miles and my car wasn't even stock.
Mar 8, 2004, 09:45 PM
#43
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Some definitions and experiences. this is NOT ADVICE or instructional in any way. (i.e. dont go try this **** and blame me for you blowing your tranny). I want to clear up some of the terms being thrown around. There are many interpretations. These are the ones I know. These are the things I do.
matching revs: when going from higher gear to lower gear (e.g. 4th to 3rd) push in clutch, blip throttle (gas it quickly til revs rise approx 300 rpm more than where you are--amt depends on gear ratios--FULLY letting go of gas), let in clutch, now you can get back on gas to accelerate. or use engine braking to slow down.
heel-n-toe: same as matching revs, but I do it while braking. There are couple different ways to do this, mostly different in timing of depressing clutch.. but here's 1. while approaching corner, hit brake. with right big toe on brake, and time to shift down, push clutch with left foot, at same time downshift, at same time use right foot heel edge (outside) to blip throttle (3 things happening at once quickly--all 3 pedals being used at same time). engage clutch while still on brake so that I'm in the lower gear ready to accelerate out of corner. This way, No time wasted downshifting when my foot comes off brake. I wouldnt practice this on my evo or any 4wd car if I didnt already know how to do it.
powershifting: shifting while NOT letting up on gas. most 2wd cars will chirp tires between 1-2 and most likely 2-3 shift. more chirps if car has enough hp. Not good for clutch, transmission, drivetrain, esp for 4wd cars.
shifting without clutch. BAD FOR SYNCHROS. assuming I'm already rolling in 1st (let's not get into getting into 1st without clutch), without using clutch, gently force shifter into and past neutral while letting off gas. timing must be ideal so that forces acting on gears are minimal while moving shift lever (i.e. not accelerating OR decelerating), gently push gear lever into next higher gear as revs drop til it goes in. It goes in when the revs match the speed of the gear in whatever gear you're going into. Taking too long to do this defeats the purpose. the next gear usually happens as the revs drop a few hundred rpm. AGAIN: BAD FOR SYNCHROS. emergencies only. Dont try this in an evo.
For the original poster:
IF you DID NOT let up on the gas while matching revs downshifting, then that's bad and you may have caused some problems (not saying you did). Matching revs will minimize wear because the engine needs to catch up only 0-maybe a hundred rpm vs 3-400 rpm if you didnt. But if you're matching by giving it gas and not letting go, then it defeats the purpose.
IMO:
for all manual cars, Minimize use of the clutch This may be old school, but at stoplights, put it in neutral. dont sit there in 1st w. clutch in. Dont brake and clutch at same time lest it's a short distance. I use brake and put in neutral at last sec or put it in neutral and then brake.
You really dont want to learn to heel n toe in your evo, I'd say. Sometimes, I practice heelntoe motions at a stoplight while not in any gear. I Practice the motion of the left foot clutch, right foot roll on gas from brake. That's the hard part. Make sure I blip throttle only a few hundred while trying to be able to modulate brake pressure. Adding the gearshift later is easy.
I have been driving a stick since 92. I'm still trying to improve myself every time I drive. It's an art form.
Personally, I think they should friggin fix your car. They just dont want to spend time or have to deal with getting their money back from Mits.
matching revs: when going from higher gear to lower gear (e.g. 4th to 3rd) push in clutch, blip throttle (gas it quickly til revs rise approx 300 rpm more than where you are--amt depends on gear ratios--FULLY letting go of gas), let in clutch, now you can get back on gas to accelerate. or use engine braking to slow down.
heel-n-toe: same as matching revs, but I do it while braking. There are couple different ways to do this, mostly different in timing of depressing clutch.. but here's 1. while approaching corner, hit brake. with right big toe on brake, and time to shift down, push clutch with left foot, at same time downshift, at same time use right foot heel edge (outside) to blip throttle (3 things happening at once quickly--all 3 pedals being used at same time). engage clutch while still on brake so that I'm in the lower gear ready to accelerate out of corner. This way, No time wasted downshifting when my foot comes off brake. I wouldnt practice this on my evo or any 4wd car if I didnt already know how to do it.
powershifting: shifting while NOT letting up on gas. most 2wd cars will chirp tires between 1-2 and most likely 2-3 shift. more chirps if car has enough hp. Not good for clutch, transmission, drivetrain, esp for 4wd cars.
shifting without clutch. BAD FOR SYNCHROS. assuming I'm already rolling in 1st (let's not get into getting into 1st without clutch), without using clutch, gently force shifter into and past neutral while letting off gas. timing must be ideal so that forces acting on gears are minimal while moving shift lever (i.e. not accelerating OR decelerating), gently push gear lever into next higher gear as revs drop til it goes in. It goes in when the revs match the speed of the gear in whatever gear you're going into. Taking too long to do this defeats the purpose. the next gear usually happens as the revs drop a few hundred rpm. AGAIN: BAD FOR SYNCHROS. emergencies only. Dont try this in an evo.
For the original poster:
IF you DID NOT let up on the gas while matching revs downshifting, then that's bad and you may have caused some problems (not saying you did). Matching revs will minimize wear because the engine needs to catch up only 0-maybe a hundred rpm vs 3-400 rpm if you didnt. But if you're matching by giving it gas and not letting go, then it defeats the purpose.
IMO:
for all manual cars, Minimize use of the clutch This may be old school, but at stoplights, put it in neutral. dont sit there in 1st w. clutch in. Dont brake and clutch at same time lest it's a short distance. I use brake and put in neutral at last sec or put it in neutral and then brake.
You really dont want to learn to heel n toe in your evo, I'd say. Sometimes, I practice heelntoe motions at a stoplight while not in any gear. I Practice the motion of the left foot clutch, right foot roll on gas from brake. That's the hard part. Make sure I blip throttle only a few hundred while trying to be able to modulate brake pressure. Adding the gearshift later is easy.
I have been driving a stick since 92. I'm still trying to improve myself every time I drive. It's an art form.
Personally, I think they should friggin fix your car. They just dont want to spend time or have to deal with getting their money back from Mits.
Last edited by rocketscience; Mar 8, 2004 at 09:51 PM.
Mar 9, 2004, 04:45 AM
#45
Evolving Member
FWIW, I started double clutching/rev matching/heel & toeing my downshifts when it became apparent that the clutch on these cars needs to be treated gingerly. The way I look at it is that the smaller the difference in revs between the clutch disc and the flywheel when you engage the clutch, the lower the stress on the clutch (and everything else in the drivetrain). I also adjusted my starting technique to really minimize slipping, which is something this clutch just does not seem to tolerate very well. It took a little practice to get the starts to be smooth without slipping the clutch, but my clutch and I seem to be much happier campers for it all...
JW
~14k on stock clutch, including several autocrosses
JW
~14k on stock clutch, including several autocrosses