michaelrc51

iTrader: (37)

I have to think a Buschur short block is definitely the way to go. Proven reliable and good for a lot of power. I don't think you can beat it for the money.
I have a BR 2.3 in my car and have no complaints about the motor.

.DoT.

iTrader: (1)

So how do the run a long rod and keep the same displacement? Doesn't increasing your stroke or bore always increase the displacement?

And what's the difference between the BR LR Rods and OEM Rods?

Sorry for all of the questions, I'm trying to pick up as much as I can as fast as I can but there seems to be more options for a 4G's Piston and Rod combo. than any other motor I've ever messed around with..

Thanks in advance!

Faisalm

OEM rods are:
- 150mm
- Cast
- Flimsy only handle ~400 ft/lbs.

The BR LR rods are:

- 156mm
- Forged
- Can handle in excess of 600 ft/lbs

Displacement is only changed when the crank stroke is altered or the bores have been widened. I don't think rod length changes stroke or displacement, correct me if I'm wrong.

So even with a longer rod, you're not changing displacement therefore it's still a 2.0. Increasing the bore will have minimal affect on displacement in comparison to the crank stroke.

IzzyRS

iTrader: (8)

You're pretty close to English Racing, you should talk to them about your plans. They've built some badass 2.2L motors lately.

.DoT.

iTrader: (1)

Awesome information! I guess I had the wrong concept of rod length, but that makes sense!

I definitely think that the Buscher 2.0LR is a a great deal! High on the list of what I'm wanting to buy! Like it was mentioned before it's proven, not to mention assembled!

As for English that's exactly who I was thinking about for the 2.2SLR. They build some pretty bada** Evos there. My only concern there is that the kit costs as much the BR 2.0LR and then I'd have machining and assembly on top of it.

I can honestly afford it, but being so new to the 4G in general I've got more reading a head of me to see if the 2.2SLR is really worth the extra $1000+ or if that $1000+ would be better spent on a BR S3 Head and/or Magnus IM..

So off to read I go! Thanks for all the input guys, definitely some good information in this thread!

.DoT.

iTrader: (1)

Follow up:

So I've spoke to English and they suggested their 2.2SLR with 9:1 Weisco HD's, K1 Tech 94mm Crank and 153mm R&R Rods. I've read up on this build and it seems like they've had some pretty good results with this setup.

I've also spoke to David Buscher! Kind of caught me off guard when he answered the phone.. LOL
He suggested that THE only block I should be thinking about with a 6266 is his BR S3 2.0 Standard Rod. He said running a stroker motor on this setup wouldn't be optimal for the turbo choice.

Two completely different opinions but honestly I think the BR 2.0 is the way I'm going. I can buy the S3 Head, the BR 2.0 SB and have it assembled for the cost of the 2.2SLR build without a head and installation.

Thanks for all of the help guys! Hope this post helps someone in the same situation.

Faisalm

You won't be disappointed.

EvoTurboTurk

I'm a little confused, Summit racing http://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=fszNIRbS8yw claim H beam rods are more thicker, etc. By being thicker wouldn't this make it stronger then I beam? I noticed on other forums, other people have stated H beams being stronger then I beam. I wanted to get the correct rod for my build, before I end up purchasing the wrong rod.

mx4life85

iTrader: (38)

Great info in this thread. Please post up after the BR purchase and let us know how you're liking it.