STM re-wire kit now relay getting very hot, melting relay connector
#1
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STM re-wire kit now relay getting very hot, melting relay connector
installed the re-wire kit as per STM dircetions.... @ the relay:
#30 (blue wire) - feed wire from battery.
#87 (yellow wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the pump side.
#86 (black wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the car side.
#85 (white wire) - chassis ground
the relay gets very warm/hot. the relay connector got melted at one point. check that all connections were soldered and clean. made sure good ground. tested the relay, it clicks and 0 resistance when energized. does not blow the inline fuse. the pump is a brand new 450 walbro. kinda stumped, i think im gonna try a new relay. anybody have any input or ever come across this problem?
#30 (blue wire) - feed wire from battery.
#87 (yellow wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the pump side.
#86 (black wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the car side.
#85 (white wire) - chassis ground
the relay gets very warm/hot. the relay connector got melted at one point. check that all connections were soldered and clean. made sure good ground. tested the relay, it clicks and 0 resistance when energized. does not blow the inline fuse. the pump is a brand new 450 walbro. kinda stumped, i think im gonna try a new relay. anybody have any input or ever come across this problem?
#2
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I had the same issue man. I roasted the harness connector 2 times. It even melted the foam on the seat.
I ended up pulling the rewire kit and running it without hardwire. So far so good.
If I do need more power ill be doing what mrfred did on here. Look at his threads.
My only thought is that the pressure is so high at idle that its back flowing at the pump. Just a thought.
I ended up pulling the rewire kit and running it without hardwire. So far so good.
If I do need more power ill be doing what mrfred did on here. Look at his threads.
My only thought is that the pressure is so high at idle that its back flowing at the pump. Just a thought.
#7
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Any specs on the relay or part number?
I am thinking they are cheap bases and possibly the terminal connectors may be heating up and melting the base. Maybe use a relay base with a higher rating so the terminal connectors so they wont heat up as much.
If you look around you can find higher quality relay bases that won't heat up and melt.
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#10
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installed the re-wire kit as per STM dircetions.... @ the relay:
#30 (blue wire) - feed wire from battery.
#87 (yellow wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the pump side.
#86 (black wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the car side.
#85 (white wire) - chassis ground
the relay gets very warm/hot. the relay connector got melted at one point. check that all connections were soldered and clean. made sure good ground. tested the relay, it clicks and 0 resistance when energized. does not blow the inline fuse. the pump is a brand new 450 walbro. kinda stumped, i think im gonna try a new relay. anybody have any input or ever come across this problem?
#30 (blue wire) - feed wire from battery.
#87 (yellow wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the pump side.
#86 (black wire) - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the car side.
#85 (white wire) - chassis ground
the relay gets very warm/hot. the relay connector got melted at one point. check that all connections were soldered and clean. made sure good ground. tested the relay, it clicks and 0 resistance when energized. does not blow the inline fuse. the pump is a brand new 450 walbro. kinda stumped, i think im gonna try a new relay. anybody have any input or ever come across this problem?
Not exactly getting what you are saying with terminals #86 and #87.
You should have 4 terminals.
#85 is the ground. Could be ground or negative from the pump circuit
#86 is your switched positive. Positive 12+ from existing pump circuitry
#30 should be your positive from the battery to the relay
#87 should be from the relay to the new pump
when there is 12v on #85 and #86 it will close the contact between #30 and #87.
Not sure if that is what you were saying or not....
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I cant tell you if you wired them wrong as I don't have their kit, but I have Deustch Works rewire kit and I have no issues. Even if the fuse isn't popping and your driving enough current draw (amps) through the connector, it will melt if its not up to the temp lol. Granted no fires will happen or anything, because if the base does melt at least the relay itself will keep the contacts away from each other. Maybe look into Deustch Works kit?
#13
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This happened to me too recently only I changed relays and connectors and it happened again.... melts at the power wire. Just put the oem plug back to stock and am using a bulletproof racing billet plug and play double pumper and relay box. Hoping for the best. Deleting the supplied hobbs switch and using ecu ground on low side to trigger second pump via AEM INFINITY
I think the 450 HP’s draw too much current for thr STM setup’s wiring thickness
I think the 450 HP’s draw too much current for thr STM setup’s wiring thickness
#14
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This happened to me too recently only I changed relays and connectors and it happened again.... melts at the power wire. Just put the oem plug back to stock and am using a bulletproof racing billet plug and play double pumper and relay box. Hoping for the best. Deleting the supplied hobbs switch and using ecu ground on low side to trigger second pump via AEM INFINITY
I think the 450 HP’s draw too much current for thr STM setup’s wiring thickness
I think the 450 HP’s draw too much current for thr STM setup’s wiring thickness
I'm running the following and is rated at 100amps for the whole block so I run my 4 channel amp, two 450's, and one slot open.