View Poll Results: At what mileage was your transfer case replaced?
Zero to 1,000 miles
0
0%
1,000 miles to 5,000 miles
4
23.53%
5,000 miles to 10,000 miles
4
23.53%
10,000 miles to 15,000 miles
4
23.53%
Transfer case replaced more than once
1
5.88%
Yes, Covered by warranty
6
35.29%
No, Not covered by warranty
3
17.65%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll
Replaced Your transfer Case?
#31
Originally Posted by SILVER SURFER
I hate to tell you this bbyEvoGirl, because I am not sure if it will do you any good at this point, but you can buy a brand new TC from mitsubishiparts.com for $1,647.38, they will ship to you for $60. They told me they keep two in stock at all times.
The RS version with limited slip is going to run $1,922, but is not available yet.
I swapped one out for the first time, it took about 2-3 hrs, an experienced shop should be able to do it in less than 2 hrs.
By shopping around, a TC replacement should cost less than 2k. That includes labor and keeping your old unit for possible spare parts/rebuild.
The RS version with limited slip is going to run $1,922, but is not available yet.
I swapped one out for the first time, it took about 2-3 hrs, an experienced shop should be able to do it in less than 2 hrs.
By shopping around, a TC replacement should cost less than 2k. That includes labor and keeping your old unit for possible spare parts/rebuild.
#32
Is there any driving eror with a bad transfer case? I have a loud blow off valve sound when i let to of gas or change gears, even with stock blow of.
I was told my tc is bad by xs, but i was told my car drives fine by mitsu.
I could not down load the sound of that bad tc, can you post that down load again please.
I was told my tc is bad by xs, but i was told my car drives fine by mitsu.
I could not down load the sound of that bad tc, can you post that down load again please.
#33
Originally Posted by bustmac
Is there any driving eror with a bad transfer case? I have a loud blow off valve sound when i let to of gas or change gears, even with stock blow of.
I was told my tc is bad by xs, but i was told my car drives fine by mitsu.
I could not down load the sound of that bad tc, can you post that down load again please.
I was told my tc is bad by xs, but i was told my car drives fine by mitsu.
I could not down load the sound of that bad tc, can you post that down load again please.
#35
Matt,
$2400 is list price, (retail is for the suckers) you have to tell them that you are doing an internet order but could not find the part listed on thier site. My local dealer even quoted me a price of $1876 (DSM club discount) all you have to do is ask for it. Mitsubishi parts.com does not show this part on thier site but mitsubishiparts.net does:
MR980934 Transfer Sub Assy list - $2,167.61 our price - $1,927.01 $1,927.01
Subtotal: $1,927.01
Currently in stock
They are more expensive than mitsubishiparts.com and even they are advertising it for $1927. Call the .com guys back and tell them you are trying to order this part throught the internet and that it is not showing up (TC PN is MR980934), also tell them that you had previously been quoted a price of $1647.38, and see what happens. They also offered to ship half way across the country for $60, so don't let them try and hose you there either. It's all a matter of asking the right way.
There are those that walk into a show room ask the price of a new car, they are initially quoted sticker price, some people say ok and pay, others pay significantly less. Parts are no different in that regard, a lot of people do not seem to realize this, now you do.
I have even been able to get my local dealer parts department to match prices with these internet advertised parts. There are huge margins in factory parts, if they know you can get it elsewhere for less, they will sell it at a discount rather than not at all. Somtimes your still better off going with an out of state dealer on more expensive items due to sales tax. But that argument can also get your local guy to lower his price even further.
$2400 is list price, (retail is for the suckers) you have to tell them that you are doing an internet order but could not find the part listed on thier site. My local dealer even quoted me a price of $1876 (DSM club discount) all you have to do is ask for it. Mitsubishi parts.com does not show this part on thier site but mitsubishiparts.net does:
MR980934 Transfer Sub Assy list - $2,167.61 our price - $1,927.01 $1,927.01
Subtotal: $1,927.01
Currently in stock
They are more expensive than mitsubishiparts.com and even they are advertising it for $1927. Call the .com guys back and tell them you are trying to order this part throught the internet and that it is not showing up (TC PN is MR980934), also tell them that you had previously been quoted a price of $1647.38, and see what happens. They also offered to ship half way across the country for $60, so don't let them try and hose you there either. It's all a matter of asking the right way.
There are those that walk into a show room ask the price of a new car, they are initially quoted sticker price, some people say ok and pay, others pay significantly less. Parts are no different in that regard, a lot of people do not seem to realize this, now you do.
I have even been able to get my local dealer parts department to match prices with these internet advertised parts. There are huge margins in factory parts, if they know you can get it elsewhere for less, they will sell it at a discount rather than not at all. Somtimes your still better off going with an out of state dealer on more expensive items due to sales tax. But that argument can also get your local guy to lower his price even further.
#38
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I have replaced 2 transfer cases within 2 weeks of being at AMS. One was from a car that the owner was doing repeated dry donuts. That one sheered the dowel pin off that keeps the cross shaft in place in the front diff that holds the side gears. Thats what happens when you get one tire spinning extremly faster than the other on an open diff. The side gears get spinning at an exponential rate which throws all the fluid off them, they then start trying to spin the crossshaft from friction, and once the cross shaft decides to move, it sheers the holding pin clean off. Then the shaft can start to freely walk out of the diff and consequently starts digging into the outer housing, which loads the inside of the whole assembly with metal shavings, and in an evo front diff the clearances are very very tight. This thing was so ****ed we had to put it in a vise and start beating on it with the biggest hammers we could find to get the diff out. It also destroyed the inner ends of both shafts that slide into the diff that go out to the axles.
The 2nd tcase was making noise from the pinion shaft going to the driveshaft wobbling. The front bearing on the pinion shaft started to go bad allowing the pinion shaft to start moving, which allowed the driveshaft yoke to start rubbing the tailshaft housing on the tcase. It wasent that bad yet but Im sure it would have gotten much worse very quickly now that the car has 600 awhp, so we went ahead and replaced it anyway.
Anyone care to explain how they go about R&Ring the diff? I remove the tailshaft housing, remove the diff cover, and take the diff out. That way I am just removing the hollow tcase housing with just the pinion shaft hanging out the back. If you do it like this, you can snake the transfer case out of the car without having to drop or lower the crossmember at all. Its a tight fit, but it sually comes out fairly easy. Getting the new one up in there is alwyas just a lil harder though.
Fun times.
The 2nd tcase was making noise from the pinion shaft going to the driveshaft wobbling. The front bearing on the pinion shaft started to go bad allowing the pinion shaft to start moving, which allowed the driveshaft yoke to start rubbing the tailshaft housing on the tcase. It wasent that bad yet but Im sure it would have gotten much worse very quickly now that the car has 600 awhp, so we went ahead and replaced it anyway.
Anyone care to explain how they go about R&Ring the diff? I remove the tailshaft housing, remove the diff cover, and take the diff out. That way I am just removing the hollow tcase housing with just the pinion shaft hanging out the back. If you do it like this, you can snake the transfer case out of the car without having to drop or lower the crossmember at all. Its a tight fit, but it sually comes out fairly easy. Getting the new one up in there is alwyas just a lil harder though.
Fun times.
#39
Evolved Member
iTrader: (45)
Originally Posted by CleveBrownsFan
Here is a soundclip of a bad transfer case...
You need QUICKTIME in order to hear it...
http://userweb.suscom.net/~dtdelollis/noise1.3gp
You need QUICKTIME in order to hear it...
http://userweb.suscom.net/~dtdelollis/noise1.3gp
Thanks.
#40
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I think my tranfer case is going right now, actually Turbo trix comfirmed this today. I think I should wait for the qualife OR wait for TT to built their own. I don't know but the whinning is pretty damn annoying. Drive on!!!!
#42
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Originally Posted by tx evo
I replaced my transfer case with the RS transfer case. So far, I very happy with the Limited slip.