Brand New Built 2.4L with Rod Knock Already??
Mar 30, 2015, 02:03 PM
#16
Ya the first thing I did when I heard it knocking was pull the oil pan and pop the end caps off the rods and I saw the crack in the crank. I probably should have bought a billet crank, but I'm running the car with a smaller turbo on the new engine I built and it's going to make 200 less hp so it should be alright lol. I hope you get some things figured out I know it can be frustrating when mechanical failures happen whether it be from assembly error or just unpreventable failures due to less than superior parts for the given stress application.
Mar 31, 2015, 08:16 AM
#18
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1st thing I was told is the OEM 2.4 crank tends to crack on the 4th journal. For 600 bux running a Manley billet crank is just extra insurance.
Memphis I'm sure the crank is fine. Sounds like you did everything right. Have you spoken to the shop that did the work yet?
1st thing is to get the engine broken down and figure out what happened, then you both can decide on a suitable way to rectify the situation.
Memphis I'm sure the crank is fine. Sounds like you did everything right. Have you spoken to the shop that did the work yet?
1st thing is to get the engine broken down and figure out what happened, then you both can decide on a suitable way to rectify the situation.
Apr 1, 2015, 10:59 AM
#19
1st thing I was told is the OEM 2.4 crank tends to crack on the 4th journal. For 600 bux running a Manley billet crank is just extra insurance.
Memphis I'm sure the crank is fine. Sounds like you did everything right. Have you spoken to the shop that did the work yet?
1st thing is to get the engine broken down and figure out what happened, then you both can decide on a suitable way to rectify the situation.
Memphis I'm sure the crank is fine. Sounds like you did everything right. Have you spoken to the shop that did the work yet?
1st thing is to get the engine broken down and figure out what happened, then you both can decide on a suitable way to rectify the situation.
As has been said, the motor is done. Clearances are WAY tight if that is what they are. I presume it must have come with a blueprint sheet? The next question is the tune, how much torque did this make on what fuel and at what RPM?
Apr 1, 2015, 01:04 PM
#20
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Manleys break at #4 as well, I have 5 of them here.
As has been said, the motor is done. Clearances are WAY tight if that is what they are. I presume it must have come with a blueprint sheet? The next question is the tune, how much torque did this make on what fuel and at what RPM?
As has been said, the motor is done. Clearances are WAY tight if that is what they are. I presume it must have come with a blueprint sheet? The next question is the tune, how much torque did this make on what fuel and at what RPM?
Apr 1, 2015, 01:12 PM
#21
Well if it beat a bearing our of round, you can bet the crank needs to be turned as well. Cant just replace the bearing--. Yep, from the amount of babbitt in your oil--the bearing is gone. Not sure its a tolerance thing unless something was wrong with the build, ie not completely round. Good Luck bud.
Apr 3, 2015, 06:18 AM
#22
I'm curious too. I've been on the forged for 3 years, making gobs of transmission breaking torque. Had it knife edged last year when we upped the compression. Wondering if I have been "lucky", or the billets are what you see break... I always figured my high rpms would do my big crank in
Apr 3, 2015, 09:44 AM
#23
Manleys break at #4 as well, I have 5 of them here.
As has been said, the motor is done. Clearances are WAY tight if that is what they are. I presume it must have come with a blueprint sheet? The next question is the tune, how much torque did this make on what fuel and at what RPM?
As has been said, the motor is done. Clearances are WAY tight if that is what they are. I presume it must have come with a blueprint sheet? The next question is the tune, how much torque did this make on what fuel and at what RPM?
Edit: just saw the rod bearing clearances. Those are still in the factory recommended range but I wouldn't want them so tight in one of my builds.
Apr 3, 2015, 10:40 AM
#24
My crank was just a manley forged 88mm that cracked #4 journal, I haven't heard of the billet cranks having any issues. I fibbed a little when I talked to the guys at manley and told them I was only making 600hp and they thought that was still too much power and I should be using a billet crank, but I didn't want to spend the extra money because this engine won't see over 650hp and less if I switch over to pump gas. I'm only running a precision 5858. I've seen Evos make 750+ on stock mitsu cranks and not have any issues. I'd say the mitsu crank is a little stronger than the manley. The oiling holes look a bit nicer on the manley though, but I'd say if your gonna make over 600 then go billet to be safe.
Apr 4, 2015, 04:02 AM
#25
I have a Professionally Built 2.4L LR Engine in my Evo built by a very well known shop and I think it already spun a bearing after only 900 miles of driving - need to be sure. I haven't even had the chance to race the dang car yet! So disappointed!
Anyway, took my car out of storage to give it a drive this week and topped off the fluids, etc.. After driving for about 20 min and coming to a stop at a light, noticed a tapping coming from the engine, kinda like a lifter tick but louder.
Had the car towed home just to be safe. Proceeded to pull the valve cover and check the valvetrain for any strangeness.. looked normal to me. Didn't see any stuck lifters, etc..
I then put everything back together and took out my mechanic's stethoscope to see where this noise was actually coming from. Started it up and It was loudest on the block.. Not what I wanted to hear. Proceeded to test for a spun bearing by pulling all the spark plugs and then putting each piston at TDC and then slightly on the down stroke stopping each. Then taking a screw driver and see if the piston would push down due to a bearing failure. All of them were fine except #3. Which had a nice thump when I pushed down on it. GREAT.
Drained the oil - Looked like it had glitter in it.
What do you guys suggest I do next? Cut open the oil filter - What would I be looking for? About to do that now..
I have had weird issues with this motor since I took delivery of my car.. Oil consumption - 1/2 QT every 100-150 miles or so.. Smells like it's burning oil all the time. I have done everything from replacing the valve seals to checking the turbo, putting a catch can system in to let the engine breathe.. I am at a loss on this one. Now this apparent spun bearing. I have already dumped over $10k into this car last year alone.
Anyway, took my car out of storage to give it a drive this week and topped off the fluids, etc.. After driving for about 20 min and coming to a stop at a light, noticed a tapping coming from the engine, kinda like a lifter tick but louder.
Had the car towed home just to be safe. Proceeded to pull the valve cover and check the valvetrain for any strangeness.. looked normal to me. Didn't see any stuck lifters, etc..
I then put everything back together and took out my mechanic's stethoscope to see where this noise was actually coming from. Started it up and It was loudest on the block.. Not what I wanted to hear. Proceeded to test for a spun bearing by pulling all the spark plugs and then putting each piston at TDC and then slightly on the down stroke stopping each. Then taking a screw driver and see if the piston would push down due to a bearing failure. All of them were fine except #3. Which had a nice thump when I pushed down on it. GREAT.
Drained the oil - Looked like it had glitter in it.
What do you guys suggest I do next? Cut open the oil filter - What would I be looking for? About to do that now..
I have had weird issues with this motor since I took delivery of my car.. Oil consumption - 1/2 QT every 100-150 miles or so.. Smells like it's burning oil all the time. I have done everything from replacing the valve seals to checking the turbo, putting a catch can system in to let the engine breathe.. I am at a loss on this one. Now this apparent spun bearing. I have already dumped over $10k into this car last year alone.
I also had that shop (checked your old post) do a build for me. Had them also brake in the motor, and tune the car.
From the very start the car had some issue, it burnt oil, leaked oil, and like you had that odd burning oil smell. I'd say it burnt about a qrt of oil very 1000 mile depending if its street or hwy driving. Was told by the shop that its was normal for built motors to burn oil, and some burn more then others.
Took the car back to them multiple times, Had them try and address the oil leak. I even left the car with them for a little over a months to fix it but the oil leak issue is still present after a week of driving. Talked to the shop owner and was told they couldn't really pinpoint where the leak was coming from, and that it might be leaking from the rear main seal. they would need to pull the transmission to replace the seal, and i would be charge for that.
I was a disappointed.
Apr 5, 2015, 05:43 AM
#26
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That truly sucks. i was in a similar situation but the shop I deal with IS taking care of it even though its been a year later (I had been complaining about the oil disappearing a few weeks after I got the car back. My car was eating more oil then your yours and leaving no trace.
Good luck to you both.
Good luck to you both.
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