Let’s assume nothing is broken and the rough idle is my human error...

I recently just gave my car the works after it was sitting for a year because of a bad clutch.

I've changed the clutch, flywheel, spark plugs, EGR vacuum regulator­ solenoid valve, the battery and all lubricants.
The issue I am having is the car is idling very rough as soon as I start is up, I actually have to rev at 2k rpms for about 15 secs before it could idle on its own, than it still sounds nasty but does get better over time, and I could drive it as soon as it can idle on its own. When this first started I reviewed the vacuum line diagram and I discovered I had couple vacuum hose switched around on the EGR I replaced, this helped a little bit. I’ve ran the car for about a half an hour in hopes it would fix itself but no luck.
I’ve just done all this work and I’m momentarily at a lost, I’m sure nothing else is broken as I didn’t have this problem before I took it apart. Help please!

 

Check your timing and make sure you didn't skip a tooth. Worth a shot.

 

I've seen where the car sits so long that a slightly gummed up isc valve that sits for a long time gets stuck. Try taking it out and cleaning it up along with the passages and see what happens. May not be the issue but it's fairly easy and as cheap as a can of throttle body cleaning spray.

 

It sounds like a simple problem.

 

Drain fuel tank. Add new fuel. Retest.

 

Could be old gas or a boost leak. Mine idled the same way when I had a huge leak on my uicp.

 

I drained the old gas and have a fresh full tank now. It did help and runs a lot smoother; however the startup is still a problem. After driving it around for a couple days now i noticed it only has problems turning on and idling on its own when the engine is cold. Also in the process of trying to get it to idle on its own I do hear a couple ‘pops’ or ‘poofs’ sounds like it is coming from the engine compartment.

I’ve never done a boost leak test but I’m going to look it up and try this weekend.

Also thanks for your suggestions, keep them coming!

 

tried this, it didnt look to bad at all surprisingly, regardless cleaning it didnt help

 

For anyone who cares or is still following this post i have solved the problem. I started to assume it was a bad sensor, as my check engine light came on. My Engine Coolant temperature sensor cable had some how had one wire cut or pulled out from the female end (probably yanked on some how). After getting new connection and doing some simple electrical rewiring it started right up like new.