No Fuel Pressure (Evo 9)
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No Fuel Pressure (Evo 9)
Bare with me on the lengthy post...
I have an Evo 9 with an Fuelab 42401 Electronic Fuel Pump and regulator. Car ran fine for a few weeks. I got a CEL one day and Evoscan told me it was PO335 for crankshaft position sensor.
I installed a new sensor (that sucked) and still no start. Changed spark plugs, changed battery to known good one. Checked compression (was low but still enough). Pulled the fuel line going to the fuel rail, a little bit of fuel spilled (maybe some residual), turned the key to prime, and no fuel came out. I figured I was getting spark and compression, but no fuel. I changed the relay that was installed for the fuel pump, no change.
I bought a can of starting fluid. Sprayed for 2-3 seconds into throttle body and after some cranking it started up (I figured if I screwed up the Crankshaft sensor install, I'd lose both spark and fuel, not just one?). FPR said 0psi still but car ran fine for 10mins. But as soon as I push the gas down, it'd die. I'm flabbergasted as how the car can run with 0psi of fuel pressure since it should only run for a few seconds on starting fluid.
I haven't touched anything with the car besides the crankshaft sensor.
Now as some of you know the fuelab pump is pretty loud and that demonstrated by my video. If you listen at 0:03 and 0:08, you can hear the humming of the pump:
As you see from this video, no pump noise but car is running at least until I push the gas down at all:
Also, here is a video of the car running but shows no fuel pressure:
Note, when the car was able to start, it ran rich in the 12-13afr range. Normally, at idle, it'd be around 14.7-15.5afr.
I am kind of lost as what to do and I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this. Tomorrow my plan is to hook up the pump straight to a battery.
Is there another relay that couldn've gone bad? This pump has 3 "posts" on it. One for power, and 2 that are looped to ground. Here is what mine kind of looks like. The red wires goes from power straight to battery and the other 2 posts are looped to ground and a ground wire going to frame rail:
The pump does have a pre filter since the gas tanks are sumped and was ran on E85, not sure if the pre filter is clogged?
I have an Evo 9 with an Fuelab 42401 Electronic Fuel Pump and regulator. Car ran fine for a few weeks. I got a CEL one day and Evoscan told me it was PO335 for crankshaft position sensor.
I installed a new sensor (that sucked) and still no start. Changed spark plugs, changed battery to known good one. Checked compression (was low but still enough). Pulled the fuel line going to the fuel rail, a little bit of fuel spilled (maybe some residual), turned the key to prime, and no fuel came out. I figured I was getting spark and compression, but no fuel. I changed the relay that was installed for the fuel pump, no change.
I bought a can of starting fluid. Sprayed for 2-3 seconds into throttle body and after some cranking it started up (I figured if I screwed up the Crankshaft sensor install, I'd lose both spark and fuel, not just one?). FPR said 0psi still but car ran fine for 10mins. But as soon as I push the gas down, it'd die. I'm flabbergasted as how the car can run with 0psi of fuel pressure since it should only run for a few seconds on starting fluid.
I haven't touched anything with the car besides the crankshaft sensor.
Now as some of you know the fuelab pump is pretty loud and that demonstrated by my video. If you listen at 0:03 and 0:08, you can hear the humming of the pump:
As you see from this video, no pump noise but car is running at least until I push the gas down at all:
Also, here is a video of the car running but shows no fuel pressure:
Note, when the car was able to start, it ran rich in the 12-13afr range. Normally, at idle, it'd be around 14.7-15.5afr.
I am kind of lost as what to do and I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this. Tomorrow my plan is to hook up the pump straight to a battery.
Is there another relay that couldn've gone bad? This pump has 3 "posts" on it. One for power, and 2 that are looped to ground. Here is what mine kind of looks like. The red wires goes from power straight to battery and the other 2 posts are looped to ground and a ground wire going to frame rail:
The pump does have a pre filter since the gas tanks are sumped and was ran on E85, not sure if the pre filter is clogged?
Last edited by stiffdogg06; May 13, 2015 at 06:05 PM.
#2
Get a volt meter and make sure the pump is getting power. If it is getting power, remove the pump and bench test it by putting power to it. Its possible that the pump could have seized.
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I did a quick check and seemed ok but will be more thorough today.
I'll try to get some more photos of the actual setup to see if anyone sees something not normal.
The good thing is that if the pump is bad, it's under warranty still so that is good news.
Thanks for suggestions so far, everyone.
I'll try to get some more photos of the actual setup to see if anyone sees something not normal.
The good thing is that if the pump is bad, it's under warranty still so that is good news.
Thanks for suggestions so far, everyone.
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Checked the power the pump and it was receiving 14v. I got the car started on starting fluid and the pump got louder and louder (it also seemed to have a pulsating sound to it at first) but it seemed to take awhile. It ran, I was able to gas it without the car dying. Good news
But as soon as I turned the car off, I couldn't restart the car without starting fluid. Injectors were just checked and tested a few months ago so I doubt they are the problem. But I plan to put a screwdriver up to the injectors to see if I can hear them pulsating so I can definitively tell they are at least running (maybe partially clogged potentially).
Tomorrow, I plan to call Fuelab to see what I need to do to send the pump in under warranty. That'll eliminate the pump.
EDIT: Called Summit (where the pump was purchased) and since the pump is only 8 months old, it's covered for 2 years so I am sending it to Summit for an exchange. Since Summit is only a few hours away, hopefully it's a quick turnaround
But as soon as I turned the car off, I couldn't restart the car without starting fluid. Injectors were just checked and tested a few months ago so I doubt they are the problem. But I plan to put a screwdriver up to the injectors to see if I can hear them pulsating so I can definitively tell they are at least running (maybe partially clogged potentially).
Tomorrow, I plan to call Fuelab to see what I need to do to send the pump in under warranty. That'll eliminate the pump.
EDIT: Called Summit (where the pump was purchased) and since the pump is only 8 months old, it's covered for 2 years so I am sending it to Summit for an exchange. Since Summit is only a few hours away, hopefully it's a quick turnaround
Last edited by stiffdogg06; May 14, 2015 at 03:30 PM.
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Have you checked power to the pump as well as the grounds are good and clean? Check the fuel pump relay (on my IX, its on the passenger side of the firewall). Pulled the fuel feed line off the fuel rail and prime to the pump to see if anything comes out? Can you hear the pump click on? Tried spraying starting fluid into the throttle body?
Last edited by stiffdogg06; May 20, 2015 at 07:22 PM.
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Yes I have its normal.
I took apart fuel feed to rail...it squirts fuel....post rail its bone dry
(Something to try yourself if you haven't)
So I'm totally lost
This happened after I installed these items in one day
Stm fuel hardwire
1450 cc bluemax
Walbro 450
Aem afpr
I hope your quest goes much smoother
I took apart fuel feed to rail...it squirts fuel....post rail its bone dry
(Something to try yourself if you haven't)
So I'm totally lost
This happened after I installed these items in one day
Stm fuel hardwire
1450 cc bluemax
Walbro 450
Aem afpr
I hope your quest goes much smoother
#11
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Have an electric meter? Ohm out your wires from end to end that go to the fuel pump. Ohm out the fuses. They should read 0.0. If they don't. Then take a baseline ohm reading on the meter itself should read 0.0. If it reads more than that just subtract your baseline from your wire readings.
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I'm not sure if OP has done this
But in my case that was standard protocol for any fuel pump related problem.
All my readings have looked great
And I know OP is getting spot on readings in areas he tested
It's confusing
OP did you check your after rail, and afpr pressure?
If you undo your line from feed to AFPR side you can prime car and see if fuel is coming out
On mine its dry....
Also you can unscrew AFPR psi gauge and see if fuel is making it to your AFPR
In my case it isn't
But in my case that was standard protocol for any fuel pump related problem.
All my readings have looked great
And I know OP is getting spot on readings in areas he tested
It's confusing
OP did you check your after rail, and afpr pressure?
If you undo your line from feed to AFPR side you can prime car and see if fuel is coming out
On mine its dry....
Also you can unscrew AFPR psi gauge and see if fuel is making it to your AFPR
In my case it isn't
#14
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Well I've seen scenarios where you will get the right amount of voltage but when the wire tries to pull the amperage needed it can't. Especially in stranded gauge wire. Solid fudge usually just breaks in the insulation and you can tell pretty easy. Testing for continuity, ohms or using an amphometer will show this.
Basically I'm saying the fuel pump can't take the load of fuel. It'll spin/pump freely but when you put load on that motor or wiring its starving for amps.
I find it odd that you can idle on 0 psi. Maybe you're getting less than 30 in Hg or mm Hg. Have a gauge w measures water column or mercury? Just for my curiosity.
Basically I'm saying the fuel pump can't take the load of fuel. It'll spin/pump freely but when you put load on that motor or wiring its starving for amps.
I find it odd that you can idle on 0 psi. Maybe you're getting less than 30 in Hg or mm Hg. Have a gauge w measures water column or mercury? Just for my curiosity.
Last edited by BlackHawk_Tsi; May 21, 2015 at 07:55 AM.
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Well I've seen scenarios where you will get the right amount of voltage but when the wire tries to pull the amperage needed it can't. Especially in stranded gauge wire. Solid fudge usually just breaks in the insulation and you can tell pretty easy. Testing for continuity, ohms or using an amphometer will show this.
Basically I'm saying the fuel pump can't take the load of fuel. It'll spin/pump freely but when you put load on that motor or wiring its starving for amps.
I find it odd that you can idle on 0 psi. Maybe you're getting less than 30 in Hg or mm Hg. Have a gauge w measures water column or mercury? Just for my curiosity.
Basically I'm saying the fuel pump can't take the load of fuel. It'll spin/pump freely but when you put load on that motor or wiring its starving for amps.
I find it odd that you can idle on 0 psi. Maybe you're getting less than 30 in Hg or mm Hg. Have a gauge w measures water column or mercury? Just for my curiosity.
I'm not sure if OP has done this
But in my case that was standard protocol for any fuel pump related problem.
All my readings have looked great
And I know OP is getting spot on readings in areas he tested
It's confusing
OP did you check your after rail, and afpr pressure?
If you undo your line from feed to AFPR side you can prime car and see if fuel is coming out
On mine its dry....
Also you can unscrew AFPR psi gauge and see if fuel is making it to your AFPR
In my case it isn't
But in my case that was standard protocol for any fuel pump related problem.
All my readings have looked great
And I know OP is getting spot on readings in areas he tested
It's confusing
OP did you check your after rail, and afpr pressure?
If you undo your line from feed to AFPR side you can prime car and see if fuel is coming out
On mine its dry....
Also you can unscrew AFPR psi gauge and see if fuel is making it to your AFPR
In my case it isn't
Last edited by stiffdogg06; May 22, 2015 at 04:15 PM.