Engine Build Options
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Engine Build Options
I've been doing some research on parts and different built blocks and have a question based on everything I've read.
Are the built shortblocks like the Buschur, for example, using a new crankcase in the build? I've read that the stock crank is good for much more power than most I see with built blocks even make.
If the stock crank can handle so much power, why do all the engine rebuild packages, like at MAPerformance, seem to come with an aftermarket crankcase? It seems like a big extra expense if the stock one is so good.
Is it packaged this way for DSM builds to upgrade their crank and something that can be excluded from most Evo builds?
I just had my head resurfaced and cleaned by my local machine shop and asked about a price for engine assembly and it got me thinking.
Would getting good pistons and rods for the machine shop to do a rebuild using my stock crank be a smart upgrade or is buying already assembled from someone like Buschur the way to go? There is a big price difference because my local machine shop said they would only be around $250 for assembling a bottom end for me so I would think I could source the parts for a build and be way ahead.
Are the built shortblocks like the Buschur, for example, using a new crankcase in the build? I've read that the stock crank is good for much more power than most I see with built blocks even make.
If the stock crank can handle so much power, why do all the engine rebuild packages, like at MAPerformance, seem to come with an aftermarket crankcase? It seems like a big extra expense if the stock one is so good.
Is it packaged this way for DSM builds to upgrade their crank and something that can be excluded from most Evo builds?
I just had my head resurfaced and cleaned by my local machine shop and asked about a price for engine assembly and it got me thinking.
Would getting good pistons and rods for the machine shop to do a rebuild using my stock crank be a smart upgrade or is buying already assembled from someone like Buschur the way to go? There is a big price difference because my local machine shop said they would only be around $250 for assembling a bottom end for me so I would think I could source the parts for a build and be way ahead.
#2
Evolved Member
I fail to see how any shop can charge so little and do a good job.
With the bottom end, a good shop will spend several hours just measuring everything and confirming that all tolerances are correct... Hell, just gaping the rings takes a hour..
For a bottom end build I would insist on:
Measuring all bearing tolerances, mains and big ends + crankwalk...
Confirming PTW, using torque plate in the process, and using torque plate during machining of the block
Correct ring gaps
Rod bolts tightened using bolt stretch method.
Also, have the oil pump checked for wear..
Polish the crank, stock one is ok.. might be good to magnaflux it if it has some miles on it..
Have everythiing meticuosly washed and cleaned..
With the bottom end, a good shop will spend several hours just measuring everything and confirming that all tolerances are correct... Hell, just gaping the rings takes a hour..
For a bottom end build I would insist on:
Measuring all bearing tolerances, mains and big ends + crankwalk...
Confirming PTW, using torque plate in the process, and using torque plate during machining of the block
Correct ring gaps
Rod bolts tightened using bolt stretch method.
Also, have the oil pump checked for wear..
Polish the crank, stock one is ok.. might be good to magnaflux it if it has some miles on it..
Have everythiing meticuosly washed and cleaned..
#3
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
All shops use the stock block (crank case). Building an engine isn't cheap..
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Looks like I still need to hold off and get a short block from one of the big shops then. I was just getting a little tempted by the idea of a cheaper than I had been planning engine build.
I still have stock clutch and 6 speed transmission so I guess I have other things to worry about than building my block.
I still have stock clutch and 6 speed transmission so I guess I have other things to worry about than building my block.
#6
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (94)
Things can always be done cheaper, but my block was machined by a high-end local race shop, and they spent 9 labor hours just on machining, hot tanking, measuring clearances with torque plate on, putting in head studs and main studs with an align hone, etc.
If a proper race engine is being assembled, you'll find most shops that do higher end work will measure things three times just to make sure everything is in spec.
That's just for info's sake. Just to give you an idea how meticulous things can be.
Which internals you go with depends on what your power goals are. Having an OEM 6 speed means you're going to be limited on torque.
If a proper race engine is being assembled, you'll find most shops that do higher end work will measure things three times just to make sure everything is in spec.
That's just for info's sake. Just to give you an idea how meticulous things can be.
Which internals you go with depends on what your power goals are. Having an OEM 6 speed means you're going to be limited on torque.
#7
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I decided to keep the stock block for now but I think I am going to go ahead switch to an FP Black. I'll keep the torque down on it and still get a nice bump in power from my last HTA 73 Green and S1 cams setup.
Seems like the engine build is something I'll just wait on and really do right the first time. The transmission and clutch is something I feel I need to address before stock block anyways because I really don't need a setup with any more torque right now.
Seems like the engine build is something I'll just wait on and really do right the first time. The transmission and clutch is something I feel I need to address before stock block anyways because I really don't need a setup with any more torque right now.
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (36)
I decided to keep the stock block for now but I think I am going to go ahead switch to an FP Black. I'll keep the torque down on it and still get a nice bump in power from my last HTA 73 Green and S1 cams setup.
Seems like the engine build is something I'll just wait on and really do right the first time. The transmission and clutch is something I feel I need to address before stock block anyways because I really don't need a setup with any more torque right now.
Seems like the engine build is something I'll just wait on and really do right the first time. The transmission and clutch is something I feel I need to address before stock block anyways because I really don't need a setup with any more torque right now.
#9
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I have been really considering that. I have a good low milage 6 speed on the car now that doesn't seem to be worth much if I sell it and I hate to break it and have to buy a 5 speed and have it built. I am definitely going to research this more and maybe do it before I break anything on my 6 speed.
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