Seeking expert help,Evo IX Launch behaves like ABS lock, Drivetrain keeps breaking
Sep 11, 2015, 05:47 AM
#1
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Seeking expert help,Evo IX Launch behaves like ABS lock, Drivetrain keeps breaking
So my car is a jdm evo ix mr. Since i have bought the car, its millage was around 5k miles. The car is totally bone stock! What the problem is when i launch the car there is not one solid kick from the rear diff but it gives several kick which is not normal. If i say more accurately it behaves more like abs lock, this just happens at the moment when i let go off the clutch. And also my clutch burns, like in every two or three months, even in normal driveing condition, And also the acceleration feels jammed, feels like the car is having reli a hard time accelerating forward. And due to this even Driving normally i have broken two of the gear box, i was not even racing. There is no check engine sign on dash . My car comes with AYC. My whole drive train is being damaged by this, i see shining micro particles when i drain oil from rear diff and t-case.
Seeking expert help. Please help!!!
Seeking expert help. Please help!!!
Last edited by JDM.Spec; Sep 11, 2015 at 05:53 AM.
Sep 11, 2015, 07:04 AM
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Location: Perth, Australia
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You are launching too hard and destroying your car. You need to learn some mechanical sympathy, modulate your power delivery through throttle control and clutch modulation. You cannot just launch, drop the clutch and go.
You need to basically sit only half on the clutch, and let it slip, enough to get the car moving before you can get full power into it. But you also don't want it to slip too long, or to slip with too little pressure on the clutch as it will overheat and/or burn up and/or destroy the clutch.
Generally the stock clutches (and single plate organic clutches) will not put up with long term repeated launches, because you have to slip it too long to get the launch right and it burns up. Fine occasionally, not so great continuously and certainly not repeatedly at the same time as it doesn't cool down.
You can "fix" this with some aftermarket clutches (e.g. a single plate puck clutch, or twin plate clutch) however the flip side is (particularly with single plate clutches) that you have a higher clamp load and much harder pedal feel: it can be harder to modulate the clutch, and if you don't modulate it correctly you'll slam even more force through the drive train as it grabs harder with no apology and break your drive train faster. The stock clutch is actually helping you out by slipping and absorbing some of the power and shock loads that would have ended up in your drive train.
Generally what happens is:
- The tyre tries to spin, but you are putting too much power through the tyre and it cannot accelerate the car fast enough to dissipate the energy.
- The force that cannot propel the car forward, pushes upwards against the suspension lifting it up and causing less pressure against the road and thus less grip
- Enough pressure is taken off that the tyre can now slip, it slips a bit however as it does this the pressure on the suspension stops and causes the tyre to slam back into the road. This creates an incredible shock load through the differential as the tyre suddenly stops again with the engine still trying hard to drive it.
- Often then the power will be driven into the other wheel, where it will do the same and you get this step/step/step as each tyre bites and lets go again putting incredible shock forces on your differential. This is often called "Axle Tramp" in front wheel dives.
You need to let the clutch out only partially and slip enough to get the car moving a little before fully disengaging it. Exactly how much, when, etc.. is something to practice and learn.
If that sounds too hard.. you could buy an Evo X MR and let a computer do the hard work instead.
You need to basically sit only half on the clutch, and let it slip, enough to get the car moving before you can get full power into it. But you also don't want it to slip too long, or to slip with too little pressure on the clutch as it will overheat and/or burn up and/or destroy the clutch.
Generally the stock clutches (and single plate organic clutches) will not put up with long term repeated launches, because you have to slip it too long to get the launch right and it burns up. Fine occasionally, not so great continuously and certainly not repeatedly at the same time as it doesn't cool down.
You can "fix" this with some aftermarket clutches (e.g. a single plate puck clutch, or twin plate clutch) however the flip side is (particularly with single plate clutches) that you have a higher clamp load and much harder pedal feel: it can be harder to modulate the clutch, and if you don't modulate it correctly you'll slam even more force through the drive train as it grabs harder with no apology and break your drive train faster. The stock clutch is actually helping you out by slipping and absorbing some of the power and shock loads that would have ended up in your drive train.
Generally what happens is:
- The tyre tries to spin, but you are putting too much power through the tyre and it cannot accelerate the car fast enough to dissipate the energy.
- The force that cannot propel the car forward, pushes upwards against the suspension lifting it up and causing less pressure against the road and thus less grip
- Enough pressure is taken off that the tyre can now slip, it slips a bit however as it does this the pressure on the suspension stops and causes the tyre to slam back into the road. This creates an incredible shock load through the differential as the tyre suddenly stops again with the engine still trying hard to drive it.
- Often then the power will be driven into the other wheel, where it will do the same and you get this step/step/step as each tyre bites and lets go again putting incredible shock forces on your differential. This is often called "Axle Tramp" in front wheel dives.
You need to let the clutch out only partially and slip enough to get the car moving a little before fully disengaging it. Exactly how much, when, etc.. is something to practice and learn.
If that sounds too hard.. you could buy an Evo X MR and let a computer do the hard work instead.
Sep 11, 2015, 07:54 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
I understand what you say, at first i thought it was my driving style but i tried launching my friends gsr , that is also bone stock, but his one just launches fine without any issue. What will you say about that. Both of our car is bone stock. I tried exedy stage 1 hd, but this clutch was also burnt even with normal driving , im having this issue since last two years, exedy didnt even last 2k miles, and there is burn marks. Those who have driven my car, everyone is saying the same thing , the car acceleration feels jammed. Any idea why this is happening? Even in high rpm shifting there is no solid kick from the diff. Feels like two or three soft kick. I have tried new clutch without launching on it but it didnt last.
Sep 11, 2015, 07:55 AM
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
You are launching too hard and destroying your car. You need to learn some mechanical sympathy, modulate your power delivery through throttle control and clutch modulation. You cannot just launch, drop the clutch and go.
You need to basically sit only half on the clutch, and let it slip, enough to get the car moving before you can get full power into it. But you also don't want it to slip too long, or to slip with too little pressure on the clutch as it will overheat and/or burn up and/or destroy the clutch.
Generally the stock clutches (and single plate organic clutches) will not put up with long term repeated launches, because you have to slip it too long to get the launch right and it burns up. Fine occasionally, not so great continuously and certainly not repeatedly at the same time as it doesn't cool down.
You can "fix" this with some aftermarket clutches (e.g. a single plate puck clutch, or twin plate clutch) however the flip side is (particularly with single plate clutches) that you have a higher clamp load and much harder pedal feel: it can be harder to modulate the clutch, and if you don't modulate it correctly you'll slam even more force through the drive train as it grabs harder with no apology and break your drive train faster. The stock clutch is actually helping you out by slipping and absorbing some of the power and shock loads that would have ended up in your drive train.
Generally what happens is:
- The tyre tries to spin, but you are putting too much power through the tyre and it cannot accelerate the car fast enough to dissipate the energy.
- The force that cannot propel the car forward, pushes upwards against the suspension lifting it up and causing less pressure against the road and thus less grip
- Enough pressure is taken off that the tyre can now slip, it slips a bit however as it does this the pressure on the suspension stops and causes the tyre to slam back into the road. This creates an incredible shock load through the differential as the tyre suddenly stops again with the engine still trying hard to drive it.
- Often then the power will be driven into the other wheel, where it will do the same and you get this step/step/step as each tyre bites and lets go again putting incredible shock forces on your differential. This is often called "Axle Tramp" in front wheel dives.
You need to let the clutch out only partially and slip enough to get the car moving a little before fully disengaging it. Exactly how much, when, etc.. is something to practice and learn.
If that sounds too hard.. you could buy an Evo X MR and let a computer do the hard work instead.
You need to basically sit only half on the clutch, and let it slip, enough to get the car moving before you can get full power into it. But you also don't want it to slip too long, or to slip with too little pressure on the clutch as it will overheat and/or burn up and/or destroy the clutch.
Generally the stock clutches (and single plate organic clutches) will not put up with long term repeated launches, because you have to slip it too long to get the launch right and it burns up. Fine occasionally, not so great continuously and certainly not repeatedly at the same time as it doesn't cool down.
You can "fix" this with some aftermarket clutches (e.g. a single plate puck clutch, or twin plate clutch) however the flip side is (particularly with single plate clutches) that you have a higher clamp load and much harder pedal feel: it can be harder to modulate the clutch, and if you don't modulate it correctly you'll slam even more force through the drive train as it grabs harder with no apology and break your drive train faster. The stock clutch is actually helping you out by slipping and absorbing some of the power and shock loads that would have ended up in your drive train.
Generally what happens is:
- The tyre tries to spin, but you are putting too much power through the tyre and it cannot accelerate the car fast enough to dissipate the energy.
- The force that cannot propel the car forward, pushes upwards against the suspension lifting it up and causing less pressure against the road and thus less grip
- Enough pressure is taken off that the tyre can now slip, it slips a bit however as it does this the pressure on the suspension stops and causes the tyre to slam back into the road. This creates an incredible shock load through the differential as the tyre suddenly stops again with the engine still trying hard to drive it.
- Often then the power will be driven into the other wheel, where it will do the same and you get this step/step/step as each tyre bites and lets go again putting incredible shock forces on your differential. This is often called "Axle Tramp" in front wheel dives.
You need to let the clutch out only partially and slip enough to get the car moving a little before fully disengaging it. Exactly how much, when, etc.. is something to practice and learn.
If that sounds too hard.. you could buy an Evo X MR and let a computer do the hard work instead.
I understand what you say, at first i thought it was my driving style but i tried launching my friends gsr , that is also bone stock, but his one just launches fine without any issue. What will you say about that. Both of our car is bone stock. I tried exedy stage 1 hd, but this clutch was also burnt even with normal driving , im having this issue since last two years, exedy didnt even last 2k miles, and there is burn marks. Those who have driven my car, everyone is saying the same thing , the car acceleration feels jammed. Any idea why this is happening? Even in high rpm shifting there is no solid kick from the diff. Feels like two or three soft kick. I have tried new clutch without launching on it but it didnt last.
Sep 11, 2015, 04:17 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 27
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I understand what you say, at first i thought it was my driving style but i tried launching my friends gsr , that is also bone stock, but his one just launches fine without any issue. What will you say about that. Both of our car is bone stock. I tried exedy stage 1 hd, but this clutch was also burnt even with normal driving , im having this issue since last two years, exedy didnt even last 2k miles, and there is burn marks. Those who have driven my car, everyone is saying the same thing , the car acceleration feels jammed. Any idea why this is happening? Even in high rpm shifting there is no solid kick from the diff. Feels like two or three soft kick. I have tried new clutch without launching on it but it didnt last.
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