Exedy twin brainstorming
#1
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From: Winston Salem
Exedy twin brainstorming
Alright guys here's the deal, I bought my car around 2 years ago. The previous owner had installed an exedy twin. About 4 months into owning the car my throw out bearing split. No big deal, I pulled the transmission, replaced the TOB and figured why not rebuild the clutch.
I replaced the two friction disks, intermediate plate and pressure plate. I reused the HD cover and the flywheel. Upon reassembling everything and getting ready to drive, I realise that my clutch seems to not fully disengage. I bled the system 4 times to ensure there was no air in the system. Also I had to adjust the clutch as far out as the adjustment could go. Anything less and the car would not go into gear.
So being optimistic, I thought maybe after the break in period it'll sort itself out. Yeah it didn't, and it's beaten up my synchros. So I did some research and found a post online stating that the flywheel towers had to be polished so the intermediate plate wouldn't hang up and cause the clutch to drag. Awesome, that should be a cheap fix, only time consuming.
But I got to thinking, if the car didn't have this problem before and I'm still using the same flywheel, shouldn't that void that out? I know there's also an issue with bending the discs while installing the transmission, just not sure how probable that is.
Basically I'm hoping you guys can give me some input of things to look at when I pull the trans. I don't want to overlook something and polish the flywheel, or replace the disks when it could be something else.
I'm leaning towards the disks being damaged from install, since the problem didn't exist before. I have an ACT monoloc for the record. Thanks ahead for any input guys. Ill be tearing into it soon and hopefully find the problem and keep this thread updated, since this seems to be very common.
I replaced the two friction disks, intermediate plate and pressure plate. I reused the HD cover and the flywheel. Upon reassembling everything and getting ready to drive, I realise that my clutch seems to not fully disengage. I bled the system 4 times to ensure there was no air in the system. Also I had to adjust the clutch as far out as the adjustment could go. Anything less and the car would not go into gear.
So being optimistic, I thought maybe after the break in period it'll sort itself out. Yeah it didn't, and it's beaten up my synchros. So I did some research and found a post online stating that the flywheel towers had to be polished so the intermediate plate wouldn't hang up and cause the clutch to drag. Awesome, that should be a cheap fix, only time consuming.
But I got to thinking, if the car didn't have this problem before and I'm still using the same flywheel, shouldn't that void that out? I know there's also an issue with bending the discs while installing the transmission, just not sure how probable that is.
Basically I'm hoping you guys can give me some input of things to look at when I pull the trans. I don't want to overlook something and polish the flywheel, or replace the disks when it could be something else.
I'm leaning towards the disks being damaged from install, since the problem didn't exist before. I have an ACT monoloc for the record. Thanks ahead for any input guys. Ill be tearing into it soon and hopefully find the problem and keep this thread updated, since this seems to be very common.
#2
clutch problems are the hardest to diagnose on paper. and easy when you can see the parts. only thing I can say for sure polishing the towers is not your problem. it would only improve high rpm shifting.
#4
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From: Winston Salem
My clutch only seems to drag at low rpm/idle. I've never had any blocking, notchiness or anything at high rpm. I am starting to lean more towards something is warped and not allowing full range of motion. Luckily i still have the old disks and intermediate plate which were in ok shape. So if its one of those then it'll be cheap.
#5
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From: Winston Salem
Got the clutch taken apart and was surprised at what I saw. Everything looks to be in good/expected condition for 10k miles. Although the clutch disk closest to the flywheel along with the flywheel had abnormal wear. They were wearing along the outer edge of the friction surfaces.
Not sure what to think. Maybe a warped disk? It's obviously been dragging but only a small section is making contact. I had the flywheel turned before the clutch was installed and everything but the purple cover was new. Every component in front of this disk looks completely fine with no signs of abnormal wear.
Not sure what to think. Maybe a warped disk? It's obviously been dragging but only a small section is making contact. I had the flywheel turned before the clutch was installed and everything but the purple cover was new. Every component in front of this disk looks completely fine with no signs of abnormal wear.
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#9
Heres your problem, you didnt align the floater plate with the flywheel. You can see the marks where it was wearing instead of where it should sit in the flywheel.
This is a common mistake...
This is a common mistake...
#11
#12
Well that's kinda strange. You'd think that the line up should be more obvious when installing this clutch, but Exedy doesn't make it clear enough. I've learned to follow the white dots painted on the pressure plate, floater, and flywheel.
I'm running an exedy twin with a HTOB push conversion. No real issues as of yet, but I am interested in learned how placing the floater plate out of phase like that would cause the clutch to wear on the outside.
-pal215
I'm running an exedy twin with a HTOB push conversion. No real issues as of yet, but I am interested in learned how placing the floater plate out of phase like that would cause the clutch to wear on the outside.
-pal215
#14
Thanks for the heads up.
-Pal215
#15
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From: Winston Salem
The car is done now, just need to put it on the ground and adjust the clutch. Hopefully it solves my dragging problem.