How much weight did the battery cables and box add? I might get the Braille super lightweight battery and do what you did. Very clean.

 

Or you can mount it in the trunk to put some more weight on the rear of the car and balance out thr 60/40 split even better.

 

So I need to order the Braille Battery, a relocation kit, and a battery box. I figure the benefits would be removing 30+ pounds off the front end and adding 11.5 lbs or so to the rear end.

Not bad. I guess I will order the battery now. Any sugg's on relocation kits and battery boxes?

 

The buschur battery is a Bat-Cap battery which is superior to the Braille one. I have it and love it cold starts no problems and very high cranking amps. Quick starts. I can understand what you guys mean on the price. But you also get a custom battery tray and hold down as well. All in all I would opt for the buschur over the braille one. And also the buschur one weighs in at a whopping 12 lbs along with the battery tray, weighed it myself . But if you are in warmer climate I wouldnt have any problems opting for the oddessy. Very good price.

 

According to the vendor of the Braille item, there should be no problems in the cold regions. Can you explain why the Bat-Cap battery is better? That battery looks like the Dyna Bat battery but the pic is too fuzzy for me to tell. I just want as much infor as possible.

Also, for twice the amount of money, I would get the Braille and go by a battery tray or have one custom made and still save $$$. I gotta do this on a budget.

 

...and you support this statement with what info?

 

I found this:

http://buschurforums.com/forum/viewt...hlight=battery

The only retailer of the Busch battery that I could find could not provide much verifiable information; he could only relay information that he was told. Anybody have any verifiable info?

I did find this comparison test on the Braille--and it contains very interesting information:

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuk...ison_sheet.pdf


Looks like some research was done in which these batteries were identified as potential candidates for being lightweight battery options:

http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuk...ewtopic&t=6917

Take a look at the Dyno Batt, then go to the picture of the Busch battery and Odyssey batteries in the links above, do they not look like they are made out of the same casings?

 

Trust me it is a batcap battery . It just has the labels removed. I had 2 batcaps on my old stero system before I sold my car,so I know the battery well . But I was checking out the braille battery and it looks to be a winner too close to same CCA as the batcap. I wouldnt mind getting the braille if the batcap wasnt out there.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18797 there is one for sale on ebay and a good write up on the performace.

 

It is hard to trust people based on their word when so many that have come before you have lost my trust. I believe that the battery works, but it not clear that it is superior or will perform better than the Braille. For almost half the price, the Braille offers virtually the same performance. I still think that battery is no different than a dyna batt or Halker until I can find some additional evidence to prove otherwise.

 

Its a forum dude and I am just telling you my experience ,you didnt not ask for justication. All I did was tell you my expereince from my view point on the situation. It was Zeus who asked for clarification not you. Also the hawker and dyna batt are crappy batteries. I had a Hawker battery before and it stoped working just after 2 months from normal use. If the Braille battery is the one you want then get it. All I am saying is the Batt Cap battery is a very nice unit. I am not going by hear say, just cold hard facts Good Luck on your purchase SRT-4 Destroyer.

 

Quickshift was replying to me... I wanted to know how he came to the conclusion "The buschur battery is a Bat-Cap battery which is superior to the Braille one."

 

what good is the battery without a kit to relocate it to make good use of the space savings? I guess it depends on your goals, but i can't see why anyone would change the battery and not gain the added benefit of relocating so some better I/C pipes could be fitted.

 

I will be purchasing this battery and fabbing my own i/c piping as soon as my buddy's bro gets his shop running, if not then I will just buy the mandrel bends from RRE or somewhere with comprable prices and have them welded up. Will let you guys know how it goes.

 

Not trying to **** anyone off but how many cca's do you really think we need,even in the cold to turn over these 8.5 compression engines using their gear reduction starters?Hell,I live in northern new england where the temp all winter wasn't much over 10 degrees and I think a couple of "d" cell batteries in series could have started my car(lol).Come on now,we are not trying to crank over 13 1/2:1 compression engines,using regular motor oil,are we?We have motors with next to nothing compression ratios,using synthetic motor oil and to top it all off,a gear reduction starter.Think about it!!!

 

I don't know how many CCAs are needed in cold weather, but the Odessy PC680 cannot start my 95 below about 40*F. Rest of the time the car fires right up, but the 680 needs help below 40*F.

Charles