my mhi red was at 30 psi around 4400 rpm on pump with 520 whp lol

 

btw forgot to mention tpg tuning made 630 whp with the htz green ss

so it can make # like a red

 

Don't need a dyno to post numbers. Post up virtual dyno sheets

 

I only have 1 vd log saved ill have to go out and do some pulls.

Also I don't know how to upload logs here

 

That's good for pump gas What octane? Meth?

 

Just take a screen shot of the computer screen and upload a picture....

 

I tried doing alt+print screen. Not working for me.

 

https://postimg.org/image/livrf3s4t/

 

Seems a little slow to me, but I have some added displacement.

<- MHI 2.2L, 30psi @ 3732

 

The Red with MHI housing has great response and can make well over 400tq at low rpm IF you want it to. This was 30psi across and then 30psi up to 34psi. Took this to the track on my street tires and went 10.8@132 around 580 in the heat.
The SS green will not have this response or bottom end torque on a dyno jet.

 

I ended up picking up a 76-84 mhi red. I'm waiting till I can get some good e85 this spring then ill get it tuned and report back with my setup. Do you guys think I should do head studs on my stock block for added insurance?

 

I would do headstuds anything over 25 psi.

 

L19s or regular? can I swap them in without moving the head? Its been a long time since I have messed with studs.

 

I went l19 just for extra peace of mind. And i got them at a great deal used.

I installed cams,springs,and head studs in one day with cylinder head still installed.

2 years now at 30 psi and ethanol no issues. Coolant level has not moved 1 inch and oil never burns.

Get the sequence for torquing head and do 1 stud at a time.
Remove old stud and then install arp and torque it to desired spec.

I also did a "retorque" 500 miles later for peace of mind, i was able to move 3 of the studs during the re torque.

 

@Abacus,

Is this a 3rd or 4th gear dyno pull?