kaj

iTrader: (60)

If a machine shop builds an engine and specs are reasonable, does it matter who builds it?
What I'm looking at (without saying the shop's name):

IX block
crank polished
Eagle rods CRS-5900bb
Wiseco pistons 6595m85
Ring gaps: top = .017, bottom = .019
bearing clearance: Main = .002, Rods = .002
King rod bearings CR4120XP
King crank bearings MB5315XP
Wiseco rings
ARP main studs

built Feb of 2017

So Buschur, AMS, English, TSComp, MAP, English, or even a local shop. Does it really make that much of a difference?

My other option is a brand-new OEM shortblock from Mitsu. I'd go that route.. but I really want to take advantage of the torque from my FP green.

CeliOnce

iTrader: (3)

While it's actually running? Probably not. The question is who do you most trust to make a build that will last the longest, get the correct clearances/gaps, or most stand behind their build if something goes wrong.

Want the longest lasting? Most likely OEM. If you go a "local shop" route route I'd hope they're familiar with the 4g63 and don't just build big block engines for 1990s pick ups.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (2)

If its built the right way and with quality components I don't care who builds it. All the shops you mentioned above have a very high and good track record for their builds and within similar price range. I wouldn' t have problem purchasing a block from any of those mentioned above just be wary of down time if they are very busy.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you have a machine shop you trust, it shouldn't be an issue to throw a short block together. It's not a black art, and the 4g63 is nothing special. It's a 2 bolt main, balance shaft equipped, 4 cylinder. The clearance's you have listed are fine, except they left off PTW. Which IIRC is .0035"-.004" on the standard (non-hd) Wiseco. I would probably go another thou bigger on the ring gaps, .018 top, .020 bottom. Also, make sure they line hone the main bearing bores with the ARP main studs.

Biggiesacks

I like to make sure the shop i choose can do everything in house. When they have to send stuff out it can be a real time multiplier. I also like to take a look around the shop. The cleaner and more organized they are the better. The best shops i have worked with look like labs. Especially the place where actual engine assembly is done, should be like a clean room. Also a familiarity with your specific engine is preferable, every block and even different year castings have their own quirks. Make sure they also have/will use the proper torque plate when boring the engine.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yea, assembly room should be a clean room with dedicated tools. It should not just be a designated "area" of the shop. Too much crap floating around in the air at a machine shop for that.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

My Spidey senses are telling me to stay OEM. I have a 6spd anyway, so not like gong built would matter much.
Every time I get a quote from MAP the price goes up. LOL it's now up to $3500 from the original $3200. I better jump.on it before prices go up, again.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I would not purchase a short block from MAP.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

5 speed swap. You're gonna break the 6 speed either way...lol

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Yes, I see a 5 speed swap in your future!

Even if one can be sure that a shop followed specs and that their tools were accurate during blueprinting, that only takes away one worry. The other thing to worry about is how they torqued the main studs and connecting rod bolts. Did they measure bolt stretch or simply use a torque wrench? Then there's always the stupid mistakes like forgetting to torque something all together, leaving plastigauge behind, mixing up bearing placement even after clearances were measured.

The question then becomes not who the best engine builder is, but who sucks the least lol. If you choose to go built, go with the person who you have heard the least horror stories about. I say this because every shop and engine builder has success stories, otherwise they wouldn't be in business.

That being said, I went with a MAP 2.3l and have no problems so far, but if you have a little more cash go with an English Racing 2.2L Race block with the K1 Billet Crank. You can rev it to hell and still have plenty of displacement to spool a big turbo down low. It's a jack of all trades motor.

-pal215

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

He has a ~$3k budget. I don't think he's going to picking up anything too fancy...

revhappy

Weren't you getting rid of your Evo?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Winna winna! I went OEM, for now, for many different reasons. On the bright side, I still have a virgin block and low mileage crank to play with, should I decide to not sell them.

I was. I am still getting " break in type " metal in my oil pan. I don't have many miles on the engine but it should not still be doing that. The theory is that it's the main bearings since I did not have them checked after installing main studs.
I can't sell a car like that.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I will break and swap in six speeds all day long, until I can find someone to build one for me LOL
I really disliked the five-speed that much

CeliOnce

iTrader: (3)

There is nothing constructive about this post. If you're going to say something like that and completely write a company off you should at least explain why you wouldn't buy a block from them. If someone is looking through this thread looking for feedback for different vendors this post says nothing.