Sounds almost exactly like what Paul was experiencing in his IAC video in the first post. Curious whether it's the same problem where the rubber around the valve started to wear away.

 

On inspection of the piece I took out the rubber seal looked fairly clean. I think I replaced this thing a long time ago, I remember having some issue with the original years ago, though I don't remember why I had to replace it last time when my 8 was a lot newer. I think the original post had the idle going up and down, Mine just stalls about as fast as the tach needle can drop. If it's the little motor going bad then all is good. Otherwise I have some other issue I can't figure out.

I'm hoping that this cures it of its stalling problem, I've been dealing with this since December and have found a few issues here and there (bad driver's side coil). tired of living in fear.

 

Can anyone verify if this is OEM? I don’t recall the numbers on the IAC. Box looks OEM. Thanks!!!

 

That definitely looks like OEM packaging.

 

Question, does the rubber o-ring for the iacv go around the outside? Or inside the inner ring? Currently I have it on the outside, but wondering if I'm missing an o-ring or not.

 

Hey man,

The o-ring sits in the channel around the plunger, not around the outside.

Unseated:

Unseated O-Ring

Seated in the channel:

Seated O-Ring

You may need a new one if its stretched out and won't fit in the channel any longer. Part# MD628313

 

Thank you! Yeah I tried to fit it into that channel at first, but it literally wasn't possible. I did some digging and found that stm sells the o-ring for it. Hoping this fixes my idle issue. That, and I foraged the iac real good.

 

Just wanted to provide you guys with more information that I found.

2001 thru 2005 Chrysler Sebring and the Dodge Stratus (Same Car) also share the same IAC with the 9 MR's
Part Numbers: 1450A069, MD628084, MD628166, MD628318

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part number: AC571 - I did want to note that the part I received from Oriellys appears to be a factory OE part with the numbers on the top scratched off. The factory part from Mitsubishi shows to have an 1A stamped on the top of the IAC and my part from Standard Motor Products also had the same 1A at the top. I am assuming that its just repackaged and I got the pick of the draw.

I also want to note that I was able to find the part cheaper thru the local Mopar parts house cheaper than local Mitsubishi parts house.


I hope this information helps.

 

Thanks.
Are you running this one from O'reilly? if so, how much was it? And please update in like year to let us know if it still working fine

 

Yes, I just installed it about an hour ago. I drove it around for about 45 minutes and it appears to be working perfectly. If any issues exist in the future ill be sure to come back and post an update. I paid about $200 from oriellys.

I did order a factory one from Mitsubishi parts house as well.

 

Any update on the O'reilly part? I'm looking to replace mine soon.

 

Sorry for the late reply, so the aftermarket Oriellys IAC Failed after 3 weeks. I can say that it did fix the original issue during that time. I did also want to note that i was able to find a factory OE IAC with the 1A stamp on the top from oriellys that was repackaged in the intermotor brand name. What I had to do was order a quantity of 10 IAC's (Part # AC571) and open each box individually. Sure enough I scored and found a factory Mitsubishi part re-boxed in the intermotor box. I was very lucky.

With that being said, i have not switched it out yet, because of work. I will follow up at a later time with results with the factory IAC installed. I'm 100% sure this will fix the problem. As the aftermarket one I installed did work for a short time.

Brand new factory Mitsubishi Part found Re-boxed.

 

You might want to check and make sure your EGR valve isn't leaking as that's a known problem that will eat IAC motors.

 

what EGR? You mean the one I deleted?

 

lol well that's def not your issue then.