Does anyone run: Exedy Hyper Single VF Clutch Kit #MH01SDV ?
#3
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by kaj
I ran an Exedy single once. A spring came out of the disc and wedged itself into the pressure plate. Took forever to pull the trans, since I couldn't release the TOB. Then I had to cut the pressure plate out of the trans. It was a mess. Beware Exedy.
OP, I would not hesitate to use any exedy product as long as it had the torque capacity for the car I was putting it in.
That being said, the hyper single almost costs the same as a twin..
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by mitsuatb
Hi,
So nobody has used this clutch?
Thanks for the posts but they are not much help.
Demon Tweeks has them for about $1100 shipped. So not anywhere near the cost or weight of the twin disk.
Mitsuatb
So nobody has used this clutch?
Thanks for the posts but they are not much help.
Demon Tweeks has them for about $1100 shipped. So not anywhere near the cost or weight of the twin disk.
Mitsuatb
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#8
I agree that Exedy is a good brand, that is not why I hesitate. Only review I can find is a little negative. I have 68K on stock clutch and judder when starting out is the main reason I am looking to replace. Don't want the rattles and weight of a twin disk. Not sure what to do. I like the monolock, Exedy Organic looks better than ACT organic. I drive on the street, and even snow and ice. I need a predictable clutch. On paper the VF looks like a great idea. I am not sure how it really works on the street. The Suby review gives me pause. I have pasted it below.
"Since there doesn`t seem to be any informative threads about this clutch I thought i would do a brief review of my experiences.
So i recently got a Hyper single VF clutch installed, the VF stands for variable friction, what makes the clutch different is that it is a Hybrid clutch, essentially it has a metal contact surface as well as an organic one. because it has two surfaces it also has two engagement points when you depress the clutch pedal. if you’re interested you can check out the
manufactures website here
http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/e...single_vf.html
So I have a JDM GDB STi (currently live in Japan) i don`t have any major power mods, when i bought the car it already had a genome exhaust and a HKS intake hose that’s about it.
When i changed the clutch i also changed the clutch line to a braided Cusco one and changed the transmission and engine mounts to beatrush ones. (On a side note many people have said the Beatrush mounts cause too much noise and i would agree, so far i have done about 1200kms with them and the transmission one in particular is very noisy in the cabin especially when engine breaking it sounds like a tractor with rocks in the tranny, the engine mount i don’t mind so much because it makes the car feel more aggressive)
So breaking in the clutch is a bit of an experience, because there are two engagement points it’s hard to get your head around where the clutch will engage and how much gas to give it, this is also exacerbated by the fact that the kit comes with a lightweight flywheel which means your RPMs rise faster than they used to with the stock clutch.
So eventually i found the best way to engage the clutch was to slowly let it out till you get near the vibration point and give it more gas than your probably used to basically it has to be over 3000 RPM at least before it will engage correctly, and its actually really hard when your breaking it in as you don`t want to cause glazing on the clutch but at the same time the RPMs rise and fall a lot faster than stock.
So i have about 1200km on it now and i still stall it sometimes if i don`t give it enough gas, now as for the other component the metal material you have to make sure you engage the clutch fully when your shifting, what i mean by this is if you hesitate and don`t shift fast enough or push the clutch pedal hard enough you’re not going to shift smoothly especially compared to a stock clutch.
So all in all it works fairly well, when you want to do a hard start or power shift down whilst double clutching its actually really smooth and responsive, and if you’re stuck in traffic and only need to move a car length or two the organic surface is much more forgiving but you have to maintain RPMs.
one big issue which has somewhat gotten better but is still a major pain in the **** is reversing, I am not sure if it’s because of the lockout or something else, but if you don’t get the clutch at exactly the right point and keep the power consistent its extremely jerky and feels like the tranny is getting whiplash, I’ll see how it goes for another 1000kms but atm its till fricking annoying. "
"Since there doesn`t seem to be any informative threads about this clutch I thought i would do a brief review of my experiences.
So i recently got a Hyper single VF clutch installed, the VF stands for variable friction, what makes the clutch different is that it is a Hybrid clutch, essentially it has a metal contact surface as well as an organic one. because it has two surfaces it also has two engagement points when you depress the clutch pedal. if you’re interested you can check out the
manufactures website here
http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/e...single_vf.html
So I have a JDM GDB STi (currently live in Japan) i don`t have any major power mods, when i bought the car it already had a genome exhaust and a HKS intake hose that’s about it.
When i changed the clutch i also changed the clutch line to a braided Cusco one and changed the transmission and engine mounts to beatrush ones. (On a side note many people have said the Beatrush mounts cause too much noise and i would agree, so far i have done about 1200kms with them and the transmission one in particular is very noisy in the cabin especially when engine breaking it sounds like a tractor with rocks in the tranny, the engine mount i don’t mind so much because it makes the car feel more aggressive)
So breaking in the clutch is a bit of an experience, because there are two engagement points it’s hard to get your head around where the clutch will engage and how much gas to give it, this is also exacerbated by the fact that the kit comes with a lightweight flywheel which means your RPMs rise faster than they used to with the stock clutch.
So eventually i found the best way to engage the clutch was to slowly let it out till you get near the vibration point and give it more gas than your probably used to basically it has to be over 3000 RPM at least before it will engage correctly, and its actually really hard when your breaking it in as you don`t want to cause glazing on the clutch but at the same time the RPMs rise and fall a lot faster than stock.
So i have about 1200km on it now and i still stall it sometimes if i don`t give it enough gas, now as for the other component the metal material you have to make sure you engage the clutch fully when your shifting, what i mean by this is if you hesitate and don`t shift fast enough or push the clutch pedal hard enough you’re not going to shift smoothly especially compared to a stock clutch.
So all in all it works fairly well, when you want to do a hard start or power shift down whilst double clutching its actually really smooth and responsive, and if you’re stuck in traffic and only need to move a car length or two the organic surface is much more forgiving but you have to maintain RPMs.
one big issue which has somewhat gotten better but is still a major pain in the **** is reversing, I am not sure if it’s because of the lockout or something else, but if you don’t get the clutch at exactly the right point and keep the power consistent its extremely jerky and feels like the tranny is getting whiplash, I’ll see how it goes for another 1000kms but atm its till fricking annoying. "
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
If you're coming from a stock clutch. Just put a standard clutch in it. Exedy OEM stage1, ACT HDSS etc.
The hyper clutch is a racing part. Not a street car part.
The hyper clutch is a racing part. Not a street car part.
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Cool, good luck.
#13
Decided I did not need the VF clutch
I went more conservative than the VF since my RS is mostly stock. I bought the Exedy Organic Stage 1 non-HD 5803. Oddly one of the best prices was through Autozone. Even with taxes $507 shipped to my door. Works 3" downpipe / 3" milspec cat / works O2 / Works cat back 3" and their P2R tune should be fun but not kill the clutch or drive line. I still like the VF but my feeling is that it might wear out quickly in daily driving since you have about a 1/3 less organic material to feather from a stop. Mostly I DD the car. If I was drifting and clutch kicking the car the VF would make more sense.
#14
I went more conservative than the VF since my RS is mostly stock. I bought the Exedy Organic Stage 1 non-HD 5803. Oddly one of the best prices was through Autozone. Even with taxes $507 shipped to my door. Works 3" downpipe / 3" milspec cat / works O2 / Works cat back 3" and their P2R tune should be fun but not kill the clutch or drive line. I still like the VF but my feeling is that it might wear out quickly in daily driving since you have about a 1/3 less organic material to feather from a stop. Mostly I DD the car. If I was drifting and clutch kicking the car the VF would make more sense.