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So mine has failed now as well. I was starting to get a lockout issue so decided to drop the trans and I also noticed the clutch pads are starting to come apart on one of the discs. I broke in the clutch for 500 miles and drove it for another 1000 miles with just around town and flooring it going through the gears. I have not launched the car since Im afraid to kill a t-case 😂
The car made 700hp and 600 torque and Im using the T1R-M01
I emailed ACT about it, but I doubt they will answer me. I might just have to look for a completely different clutch. Really disappointed with this.
I will add to this. Looks like there are hot spots all over the flywheel which to me doesn't look like engagement marks (I could be wrong I am not an expert), another thing too is when people buy these the #s you see for the ratings are at the crank not at the wheel. Me myself I have the T2S-M01 which is rated ate 875 CRANK hp. Ok my car makes over 800 ft lbs to the wheels, but I don't drive the car hard all the time, and my power is adjustable from 700 whp to 1185 whp. So that is the reason I went with the organic. Not a full race car just a nasty street car.
Kidevoix your making 600 ft lbs of tq at the wheels and have a disc that is rated for 895. So if you guestimate 30% drivetrain loss to the crank your roughly 625ish to the crank limit for that disc. Now in your car 600ft lbs is about or around 420 crank and that fits perfect within the specs of that disc. So with all that confusing useless knowledge I would say that clutch drag prob is what killed the disc. I know I had bad clutch drag on my Exedy triple and it looked similar to those pics you posted above.
Ok editing again: I am an idiot sometimes everything I said above is incorrect. Math owns me sometimes and after taking a min to think about it my math is wrong. If the clutch has 600 ft lbs to the wheels it would have roughly 780 to the flywheel. Again Kidevoix you should be fine being the disc you chose 895. So with that said you chose the correct disc and I still think it was a dragging issue.
I will add to this. Looks like there are hot spots all over the flywheel which to me doesn't look like engagement marks (I could be wrong I am not an expert), another thing too is when people buy these the #s you see for the ratings are at the crank not at the wheel. Me myself I have the T2S-M01 which is rated ate 875 CRANK hp. Ok my car makes over 800 ft lbs to the wheels, but I don't drive the car hard all the time, and my power is adjustable from 700 whp to 1185 whp. So that is the reason I went with the organic. Not a full race car just a nasty street car.
Kidevoix your making 600 ft lbs of tq at the wheels and have a disc that is rated for 895. So if you guestimate 30% drivetrain loss to the crank your roughly 625ish to the crank limit for that disc. Now in your car 600ft lbs is about or around 420 crank and that fits perfect within the specs of that disc. So with all that confusing useless knowledge I would say that clutch drag prob is what killed the disc. I know I had bad clutch drag on my Exedy triple and it looked similar to those pics you posted above.
Ok editing again: I am an idiot sometimes everything I said above is incorrect. Math owns me sometimes and after taking a min to think about it my math is wrong. If the clutch has 600 ft lbs to the wheels it would have roughly 780 to the flywheel. Again Kidevoix you should be fine being the disc you chose 895. So with that said you chose the correct disc and I still think it was a dragging issue.
Yup I know about the rating numbers being to the crank. This is why I went with the one rated for 895tq to the crank. My Exedy twin made it to 4000 miles before it sh*t the bed and that ones rated for 550tq to the crank. I figured the ACT should of lasted way longer than what it did.
I forgot to mention the pressure did scrape the bell housing a bit as well
Yup I know about the rating numbers being to the crank. This is why I went with the one rated for 895tq to the crank. My Exedy twin made it to 4000 miles before it sh*t the bed and that ones rated for 550tq to the crank. I figured the ACT should of lasted way longer than what it did.
I forgot to mention the pressure did scrape the bell housing a bit as well
How far up was the pedel off the floor before it engages the clutch? I had mine about 3" and mine dragged. Now it is about half way up and I need a starter and its burried under snow lol.
very disappointing to see this. I havent really put the clutch through its paces yet as I am busy with a new efr8474 set up.
Hope i dont run into issues and need to change the clutch after 500miles after putting everything together.
How far up was the pedel off the floor before it engages the clutch? I had mine about 3" and mine dragged. Now it is about half way up and I need a starter and its burried under snow lol.
On mine I didn’t have to step on the clutch very far for it to disengage and engage, but once the problems started I had to step on the clutch further to be able to get it into gear and to shift into different gears. Was starting to get locked out when trying to floor it and go through the gears as well.
On mine I didn’t have to step on the clutch very far for it to disengage and engage, but once the problems started I had to step on the clutch further to be able to get it into gear and to shift into different gears. Was starting to get locked out when trying to floor it and go through the gears as well.
Sounds like you did the Jacks clutch adjustment didn't you? If so that was your problem. I followed that when I had my triple and I ate it twice being once the clutch started to wear it went out of adjustment. There is a reason that the stock pedal is only like 2" or so off the floor. WIth that said when it is out that far clutch has no where to go for adjustment while it is wearing. I have mine where I push it to the floor to disengage and then half way up it is pretty much fully out of engagement. My first triple lasted me 70k miles with just driving on it and some dyno time no racing and it was about half way up like mine is now. So some food for thought on that for you. I basically set it up like stock and just kept on making the padal higher and higher till the clutch stopped dragging and called it a day.
Yup I know about the rating numbers being to the crank. This is why I went with the one rated for 895tq to the crank. My Exedy twin made it to 4000 miles before it sh*t the bed and that ones rated for 550tq to the crank. I figured the ACT should of lasted way longer than what it did.
I forgot to mention the pressure did scrape the bell housing a bit as well
Well this is unfortunate to hear. I think mine went in shortly after yours did, I guess only time will tell how long it lasts. Any idea what clutch your going with next? Exedy triple?
Sounds like you did the Jacks clutch adjustment didn't you? If so that was your problem. I followed that when I had my triple and I ate it twice being once the clutch started to wear it went out of adjustment. There is a reason that the stock pedal is only like 2" or so off the floor. WIth that said when it is out that far clutch has no where to go for adjustment while it is wearing. I have mine where I push it to the floor to disengage and then half way up it is pretty much fully out of engagement. My first triple lasted me 70k miles with just driving on it and some dyno time no racing and it was about half way up like mine is now. So some food for thought on that for you. I basically set it up like stock and just kept on making the padal higher and higher till the clutch stopped dragging and called it a day.
Interesting since I have set up my last 2 clutches using Jacks method. When you adjust how did you measure if the clutch was dragging?
UPDATE: ACT got back to me. They want me to send in the clutch for repairs. They also suggested I’d go with the organic friction discs for street use. They also said there’s a revision to the floater plate springs as well.
From ACT: “Thank you for reaching out with this issue. Sorry to hear about the issues you are having with your clutch kit.
The floater release spring issue might have contributed to the puck issue however these puck friction plates are designed for race style driving quick shift quick engagement. If this is a daily street driven vehicle with a puck disc that sees normal feathered/slipped engagements at takeoff in low gear this style of driving will have a tendency to develop more issues with wear and heat damage when driven as a daily. The more ideal disc material to use in a daily driven vehicle is the organic Street friction plates which does better with slow take off/feathered engagement in daily street driven applications.
There has been a revision to the floater release springs so if you send us your clutch we will go over the entire clutch assembly and assess all the components and make any repairs necessary to get the clutch back to good operating condition including replacing the floater.
If you are interested in switching over to organic friction disc let us know and we can quote you the cost difference to get that change made.
Please follow the instructions below for submitting a warranty claim even if you are beyond the warranty period we will still take care of this clutch for you as a customer service.“
I’ll be sending in my clutch for repairs and possibly switching over to the organic discs
UPDATE: ACT got back to me. They want me to send in the clutch for repairs. They also suggested I’d go with the organic friction discs for street use. They also said there’s a revision to the floater plate springs as well.
From ACT: “Thank you for reaching out with this issue. Sorry to hear about the issues you are having with your clutch kit.
The floater release spring issue might have contributed to the puck issue however these puck friction plates are designed for race style driving quick shift quick engagement. If this is a daily street driven vehicle with a puck disc that sees normal feathered/slipped engagements at takeoff in low gear this style of driving will have a tendency to develop more issues with wear and heat damage when driven as a daily. The more ideal disc material to use in a daily driven vehicle is the organic Street friction plates which does better with slow take off/feathered engagement in daily street driven applications.
There has been a revision to the floater release springs so if you send us your clutch we will go over the entire clutch assembly and assess all the components and make any repairs necessary to get the clutch back to good operating condition including replacing the floater.
If you are interested in switching over to organic friction disc let us know and we can quote you the cost difference to get that change made.
Please follow the instructions below for submitting a warranty claim even if you are beyond the warranty period we will still take care of this clutch for you as a customer service.“
I’ll be sending in my clutch for repairs and possibly switching over to the organic discs
Dec 26, 2022, 04:34 AM
