what type of driving do you mainly do?


was the spool very noticeable between the two?

im really hoping the 2.4 is noticeably more torquey on the street.

 

I drive my car on the street and on the track. Hard to say what kinda spool I have with a 72mm turbo cause it's so laggy and the 2.4 never saw it.. the 2.4 also had 12.5:1 compression where my 2.2 has 9:1 so really not a fair comparison.

Where you will notice everything is down low. The 2.4 made gobs of tq at the low end. My 2.2 is noticeable but no where near as torquey.

 

what makes the 2.2 rev happy? I've lost too many engines autocrossing, on and off the throttle.

 

mine is a long rod 2.2 to start. and the stroke angle is at a really good spot although i forget the ratio off the top of my head. Good valvetrain, my company makes the best springs money can buy, I mean when our customers are Nascar, Nhra, Indycar, rally, supercross, sprint car, sportsman drag racing, performance street cars, basically every major race application known to racing. I will run those over anything PAC or Melling . And yes Kiggy springs are pac springs. No offence to him or his springs or anything I run what I know being I deal with them at work all day long and I know what they can do. This is how I know my car can handle high revs and have faith that I will not float a valve or hit pistons unless a timing belt breaks.

 

where do you work?

 

Performance Springs please don't call them and ask them for Evo springs being they will just laugh at you and tell you they don't make them. I get asked that question a lot and people call and they know it's me talking about our stuff. We do not sell off the shelf stuff like pac or Melling specifically for our platform. They will ask you about everything bin your setup engine wise then let you know what you need on top of that even if they will sell you springs expect to pay 500 to 600 a set without retainers and shims.

 

I mean what would be the best upgrade to avoid getting a spun bearing, other than a dry sump I assume everyone else it beating up on their engines with no failures so I'm trying to figure out what should I get for my next motor I'm open to ordering a built motor and installing it myself

 

I would say most important things would be proper bearing clearance and use good oil. I normally run Schaeffer's 15w40 7000 series. Being I have an http turbo now I may swap to hpl oil being it extends my warranty 2 additional years. Quality break in oil in my opinion is necessary but just for initial break in no miles.

I know people say on it needs x miles for break in but if the engine is going to fail it will be in the first few miles. Proper oiling or getting oil to the moving parts before cranking I believe personally is necessary as well. That's just my opinion.

I don't run a dry sump. In my car it is still wet with oil modsi n the enginedone asl well as proper coatings to my oil pump gears.

I also have a belief in changing my oil early. I know Schaeffer's says I can run 7500 miles maybe more depends on how I beat in it, but I don't believe in waiting that long. I will normally do 2k maybe 2500 miles on oil being all the good stuff will not break down as much saving stuff like bearings and and turbos.
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I’d you’re serious dry sump


We have a couple cars running the infinite evo wet sump pan with good luck …

 

Way overkill for what he wants to do. Moroso oil pan and good oil way way cheaper and will have same results.

 

I went 2k miles with conventional oil this time before dyno sessions. no more than 3 autox days per oil change after that.
The 1st was original motor but with ringland failure. I lost 2 with IE pan on. 1 with OE pan on. I think the common thing with my spun bearings is my 1)BradPenn 20w50 2) my autox driving
I was gonna message Chris Bartley for some pics of his drysump.

Anyway, i was hoping to see if there is a crank, bearing, clearance, oil etc that is best for autox use. more displacement and taller final drive? I was thinking of ordering from ER and installing it myself. i'm just not sure about the success rate

 

I'd keep stock final drive for a 2.2. . 2.4 would be hard to keep the revs up for that long cause of the notching in the block and tod ratio. I'm not saying it wouldn't work but I think for a 2.4 having owning one would be really tuff on it .

Again brad pen n oil to me is decent break in oil but Schaeffer's way superior to BP in every way. No I am not a spokesman for them in any way I've seen test results on high friction and it's amazing on what this stuff does.

As far as you losing engines I would say because of oil starvation. We're the id pans baffled and with an oil scraper? I ma not familiar with those pans but if there isn't a baffle in them oil will slide around and possibly foam up and yep you guessed it lead to oil starvation. Again good oil will prevent this along with a good pan and a proper oil pump gears to assure oil gets to where it needs to be.

What about hla? Did you have an after market hla? Balance shafts? Were you running them? Getting rid of those will asure you have a ton more oil pressure. If your road racing were you over filling your oil pan by at least a half qt to give it more oil in pan and in system? Things like this add up.

With my car making the power it does or did I spent no expense on the things like what I have mentioned to keep it alive going down the track. Another thing off the top of my head, aftermarket oil cooler did or do you run one? I know stock one is crap and doesn't cool much and I noticed a drop in oil temp once I put a good quality cooler on. If need be get one with fans that you can turn on and off to help keep oil cooler that way viscosity is better maintained. Some food for thought and sorry I know it's a book but these are just some hopefully helpful thoughts floating in my head lol.

 

Yup the IE pan is baffled. I have the ER gear, GSC shaft, Kigly HLA, OE crank, Tomei scraper, Setrab oil cooler. pcv works and I idle/street drive the car, no crankcase pressure issues. 8200rpm max
looking at drysump, looks like it replaces the AC wah

 

Ok so you covered everything I had asked now just put better oil in it lol. Bp= garbage

 

I know English racing sells a oil pump gear that people like to run. You can look into that.