Darkwater295

I need some help guys. In reference to another thread about having the engine rebuilt for the evo 8, I can't determine what the "best" option is for our needs. We're looking to get 600HP on e85, with roughly (hopefully) 480-500HP on 93. The car was heavily dragged before, and now we're looking for some road racing/very fun street driving. Our budget is about 10.5k (including labor for build/install and tune). Per the title, I've skipped 2.3L stroker as an option, despite seeing threads that it would be the cheapest option for building a stroker engine, as I've also seen plenty of arguments that 2.3L is just generally less reliable in it's longevity due to the Rod Ratio, in comparison to say, the 2.2L with a 94mm crank instead of the 100mm.

What do you all recommend is the best course of action here? Should we be trying to push this out on 2.0? Should we opt to swap the 4g63 for a 4g64 and go 2.4L. Should we spend some extra money and build the 2.2L? In any scenario, what do you all recommend for pistons, rods, crank, etc.?

Also, if it helps in your explanations, you can explain your thoughts and opinions and choices as though I was 10 year being taught this (I certainly feel like it reading through every thread imaginable on builds).

thepoint4life23

iTrader: (3)

I guess there is a lot to thiis like what kind of turbo do you plan to run, but with any Road race car your going to want more displacement, but with that said i still think a lot of the road race guys still run a 2.0l The 2.2 would in my mind be the best bet. Not overly stroked but I would for sure spend the money on the forged crank. I just think the 2.4 have a lot of head issues and still put a lot more stress on the motors parts but i could be wrong. I know you didn't want to go 2.3 but the 2.3 RPM motor that Buschur makes is also something to look at. Kind of depends if you have a good 4g63 block laying around.

Darkwater295

Currently we've got an FP Red turbo from the previous build. We're planning to use that until we save up again for the FP Black.

schuhie

I run that out of my built 2.0 on E and a red. I don't quite make the power you want on 91/93 but I built a high compression engine and the 91/93 tune for me is just to cruise around before storage.

I think the 2.2 is a really good option, the 2.4 would be solid as well as the 2.0. It really comes down to turbo choice and desired powerband.

thepoint4life23

iTrader: (3)

I have a 2.0 Long rod on an FP black and i would go 2.3 next time. i have even looked to see if i can keep some of my current motor parts to make a 2.3, I hope this helps.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

I tell everyone to spend the money on a stroker. Its just going to make everything better.

If you were only going to make 750whp I would go 2.3 but you also mentioned the road course. I would be slightly concerned with crank flex and bearing wear.
A better all around option is a 4g63 94mm 2.2. No headgasket issues to worry about compared to a 2.4 and you can make plenty of power. Rev to 9400ish.
On a budget you could do a forged eagle crank and manley I beams. A short 150mm rod will make more low and mid range then a longer rod (153/156)
If the budget allows or you are going to swing for the fences later then do a Billet 94mm crank and Carillo Rods with bolt upgrade. They are 100 grams lighter then the Manley I beam.
Proper size pins for power. Trend pins if you want to save some weight.
9:1 compression for 800whp
8-8.5:1 beyond that.
An FP red MHI will make around 430-460whp on pump gas. But just set it up for ethanol. It will live a better life. ID1700's and a Walbro 450 274 pump will make around 650whp or so. People that push things on pump gas win expensive trophies.
A real FP red Mhi is the best all around stock frame turbo for these cars and will make 550-600whp all in on a dynojet.Trap 130 in the 1/4 and have near stock spool up on a 2.2 or mivec 2.0.
If you want to make more then that you could go with an artec manifold and G770 for lower egt and more power but still have decent spool up.

For tuning. I'd suggest Slow poke tuning,Mike Adkins,AG autosports as a start. Someone with a long and proven track record.

AlexEvo26

Thanks for sharing, I have the exact setup you mention (with S2 cams), I’ve been looking at your « FP red MHI » thread for years now and I’m still hesitating between stock frame Artec with FP red (Artec also provide nice turbo housing and DP in this option) or going V band and with a bit less restrictive hot side.
basically I’ve just « followed your guidance » from your thread and still thanking you for that fantastic piece of information.

thepoint4life23

iTrader: (3)

How do people make 650 on a 450? I ran out of fuel i was told at like 525 mustang

schuhie

Likely on a dynojet.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

I like how stock frame stuff hits early and sounds on a street car. These cars are alot of fun at the OEM + level.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

My car was tapering boost badly at 32psi at 8000 or so. Fuel demand wasn't as high. The VE map tells the story. If you have a large fuel line,Large injectors,450 pump and E85 you can make around 650whp on these cars.

Dynojet is the industry standard. Nothing to adjust unless you put a heater on the tower to skew the results. Mustang dyno and others are adjustable so its hard to compare apples to apples. A decade ago some corvette guys were caught inflating dynojet numbers when their 1000whp cars went 160 in the half mile.

If you dyno a car on a dynojet in FL or WA its within a few percent. Its a useful tool compared to a low/medium/high reading xyz dyno. You can quickly compare turbo and fuel data.

thepoint4life23

iTrader: (3)

I Guess i ran out of fuel at 30 PSI. not sure if i just want to throw in a 525 and do a bigger feed line. Or just be happy with what i have now. I dont really want to go the Double pump route right now.

sorry for Thread hacking.

I guess a big think to pick the motor is your budget. Changing to the 4g64 has added price tag. Also you say road racing not sure if you will get in to class racing if so might be worth looking at a rule set and see if your motor size places you out of a class you wanted to run.

AlexEvo26

totally agree. Basically I would say you could easily save money by « only » adding a 94 mm crankshaft to your part list.