Deceit

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys.

As some of you may or may not know, I purchased the BR FMIC/BR upper pipes with the 1g valve/mini battery kit from Buschur a week or two ago. Great products, I must say. I got everything all installed up and took it to Turbotrix for a dyno session.

To make a long story short, during the first run the 1g valve could not hold more than 19 pounds. That's fine, they're not ment to hold tons of boost uncrushed anyways. So Junior crushed it a little. In 2nd gear it was hitting about 21.5 and bleeding to low 19's. They checked my hoses, clamps, and couplings and said that the valve is the problem.

I went home and tightened everything up once again and resat the 1g valve on the intercooler. Took it for a run and turned down my offset a little on my EVC. I then got it running about 22 bleeding to mid 19's. Still not good. I asked David what he thought the problem could be and he said to take a thin sheet, put it inbetween the flange and the valve and to see if it holds boost. I'm planning on doing this, but I noticed something odd today.

The valve holds way better boost in 4th and 5th gear as opposed to 2nd. It hits about 22 and bleeds to mid 20's. Interesting. Also, about halfway into the 4th-5th gear WOT run, I hit fuel cut. I don't want to lean these settings out that Mark set on my AFC, because I don't get this in 2nd gear or 3rd.

Any ideas anyone? My friend suggested siliconing the gasket/valve for a better seal. If that doesn't work, i'm just going to buy his Greddy Type-S with the adapter plate or just buy the Dejontool stopleak kit. I don't know what this could possibly be.

Shane

Deceit

iTrader: (6)

Maybe Eric (Silversurfer) or Shape can chime in on this. I just hope to get my car running before saturday

en1gma19

iTrader: (23)

i am planning on getting the upper pipes soon......i would like to know what happens also....i don't want to order the upper pipes and get stuck with a bov that won't hold boost. free bump

batty

iTrader: (5)

well i hear a leak on my Type S. I tried recirc. , venting , hard setting , soft setting. I am ****ing exhausted LOL.No setting with two springs works for me. The idles drops big time. I guess i could try the single spring mod. I am going stock leaking setup. I guess once i have the UTEC installed i can avoid the BOV problem. Wish they made a BOV that was just a direct fit no adjustmentsno washers and didnt leak.

en1gma19

iTrader: (23)

bump for awareness

Deceit

iTrader: (6)

Update:

I bought the Dejontool stop leak kit from Dave (great guy/customer service/products) and installed the stuff. It sure as hell helped drivability and the compressor surge/fluttering, but I'm still bleeding a bit. Not as bad as before, but it slowly bleeds from 22 to mid 19's.

I tightened all of my IC hoses UNREAL tight and i'm still having problems. I have no idea what else this could possibly be . Could it be my injectors are topping out?

SILVER SURFER

Shane, you seem like a nice guy, so I am going to try and explain this one more time.

I don't think your valve was ever leaking, everything you described sounds perfectly normal. Every time some one sees their boost tapering, they seem to automatically think there blow off valve is leaking. Ninety nine percent of the time that has absolutely nothing to do with it. I won't even go into the reasons why applying manifold pressure only to the top of the valve make it near impossible for a BOV to leak at higher boost, but please trust me it does.
Let's just look at what you described and see why it all makes perfect sense:

This is a little vague but are you sure no one played with the boost controller at all? Also keep on mind that the turbo/exhaust system actually operates more efficiently when heated up, that is the main reason for rapping exhaust systems on race cars, to keep the heat in the exhaust system to improve efficiency. So making slightly better boost after your initial run is not that surprising.

Three things here:

David and many others have already told you that at the high RPM 19-20 PSI is all your going to get with the stock turbo, wastegate, and manifold, especially on a dyno in second gear.
Generating and maintaining boost has a lot to do with engine loading. With a light load from say running in first or second gear, the engine revs so fast that the turbo cannot keep up. That is why you can make full boost at less than 3k in fourth/fifth gear, but in second gear it doesn't catch up until over 4K.
You need to keep in mind that chassis dynos do not properly load the engine down like it is on the street in the same gear. This is why you usually need to readjust the boost controller on the dyno to get the same boost you see on the street.

See above, 22 to 20 PSI is about right and actually pretty good for this setup. I know some people claim to hold a rock solid 22-23 PSI, and yes I have gotten that before too, but the conditions have to be just right with loading, temperature, etc. No one gets that all the time and certainly not in every gear. You can get more boost in the lower RPM's but on the high end, 19-20 is all your usually ever going to see.

Sounds like the Dejon kit is working just like it is supposed too. All it does is help the valve open faster to prevent surge on 1G crush valves. It does absolutely nothing to help keep the valve closed under WOT, above or beyond what you would get with the stock configuration 1G crush valve.

Even with the best boost controllers, seeing the boost levels fluctuate 1-2PSI is not unusual, especially under various conditions and gears.

Sounds like your stuff is working just fine, enjoy it.

For those that think they hear the BOV leaking all the time. First of all the valve is supposed to open some what under part throttle. The turbo can create more pressure than the engine requires under part throttle. If the valve did not open to vent the excess pressure you would have surging and drivability issues. If your hearing air rushing sounds at WOT it could just be intake air noises.

Boost tapering is quite normal with these systems and usually does not mean that there is a leak in the BOV or anywhere else.


Regards,

Eric

Deceit

iTrader: (6)

Eric,

Thanks for the informative response. You always have some great information and you explain it always very well. Forgive me if you explained this to me in another post, my memory isn't serving me too well .

Mark was playing with my boost controller during the runs and just couldn't get a steady boost reading. The valve, which comes to no surprise, did not want to hold much past 19 uncrushed. Crushed it was doing a lot better, but Junior/Mark both said that my valve is the culprit and that I should upgrade to a Greddy Type-S. I didn't have the money for the type-s (flange, valve, welding it on, etc), so I just went with Dave's stopleak kit.

Good information there, Eric. I do know that our turbo's do not seem to like to hold big boost. I'm just glad a ton of tuners are putting out new turbokits. I never like the internal wastegate setup, so hopefully having a nicer sized turbo with a better 'gate will help tremendously holding big boost.

I'm thinking about setting my boost controller to spike at 23 and have it bleed to about 21-21.5. I run 94 oct via Sunoco and it seems like most people claiming to hold 22-23psi run 93/94 as well. I'll have to setup a Knocklink.

I might just pressurize my intake tract just to see if there is indeed any leaks i'm missing. I'm going to make a few runs later tonight and see if playing with the offset works a bit on the EVC. Just some more tinkering I guess.

Thanks again for the solid information,

Shane