2k4EvoVIII

iTrader: (15)

Actually when it comes to bigger turbos its better to have more lift and not as much duration. More lift will help with the spool and low end torque. The duration if too high will cause overlap and make you lose HP. As far as mixing cams sure it can be done but you would definetly want at least springs and retainers since there is only one cam out there that claims you dont need springs but i can get proof of some little damage it caused becouse of the springs. Anyway with that in mind think long and hard get the right setup for what your plans are and you will be happy!

Chris

gunzo

iTrader: (2)

Actually .. stock duration is 260 int / 256 exh

If you go poncams .. or the 264's .. that's the probable reason your idle is still ok ..

I believe lift plays a bigger part than duration as you're more interested in volume flow.. with higher lift you can get basically the more volume flow up to a certain rpm range .. and comparing to longer duration .. you're almost doing the same thing with the longer duration cams except now you spread the volume over a longer rpm ..

case in point 260 Procams with 260 duration but 1.3mm higher valvelift than stock ..

quinnwhipple

We measured and profiled the stock E8 camshafts. To be honest, they are quite good, with excellent valve motion. This is the best "stock" camshaft that we have ever measured. After looking at the valve acceleration and other aspects of the stock camshaft it's easy to see why Mitsubishi stock spring can be so weak (light tension) and still work past 7k RPM.

We also have a good amount of experience with the piper shafts. They are ok, but there are better shafts out there. My favorite "off-the-shelf" camshaft for these cars is the smaller of the 2 JUN solid profiles.

Someone was asking for a place to warehouse this electronic data that has a good amount of bandwidth. I am happy to make it available via one of my fiber links if it is still in need of a high bandwidth home.

Thanks

Quinn Whipple
crco.com

ez76

iTrader: (5)

Good information, Quinn.

Have you tested other Evo cams apart from the stock, Piper, and solid profile JUN's?

Any other recommendations if we wanted to keep hydraulic lifters (but were open to upgrading valvesprings etc.)?

quinnwhipple

I would run the small set of JUN hydraulic shafts instead of the solid units in addition to a properly reworked head and intake manifold. The only reason to have any extra durration is to make up for lack of port flow. As you know the E8 head stock flows pretty good vs other mitsubishi heads. Everything can get better with a little bit of reworking but it's not required to go low 11's or even high 10's in a EVO.

If it get some extra time tonight I'll post some camshaft data on the stock shafts in the EVO.

Thanks

Quinn
crco.com

2k4EvoVIII

iTrader: (15)

Here are the specs on the new HKS 280's

Intake
10.8mm of lift
@1mm
Open (ATDC) -3 degrees
Close (ABDC) 39 degrees
222 degrees @ 1mm lift

Exhaust
10.2mm of lift
@1mm
Open (BBDC) 38 degrees
Close (BTDC) -4 degrees
222 degrees @ 1mm lift

Im still figuring out all the japanese writing but thats what i made out so far so its a start

Chris

erioshi

Thanks for the updates! I'll try to get all this compiled and update the new thread next week. this weekend is reserved for finally putting my Evo back together.

Wangan_X

did anyone ever find out the actual duration for the Tomei Procams, also they have a 270 and a 280 in addition to their 260

954DRGSR

iTrader: (2)

Impressive - this is on a DD dyno - right? No 10.5 hotside?

What boost?

erioshi

Thanks - the numbers were on a Mustang dyno and the car had minimal tuning. The boost and AFRs were set, but I hadn't touched the timing map yet. At the time the only power mods were: XEDE, Cam gears, 3" full turbo back exhaust (no cat), Piper rally cams, Ferrea valve springs and retainers, Walbro 255 fuel pump. Oh, the car was also running a K&N Typhoon intake.

The car is almost back together again, with a few new changes. The biggest is a fully ported head with 1mm oversized valves. I also have ported the stock intake manifold (and gasket) to match the head, added a new 10.5 hotside and mildly ported the 10.5 hotside and stock exhaust manifold to help the transition area between the two.

The K& N Typhoon will be comming out and the stock airbox will be going back in, also. The AFRs at idle were really unstable with the K&N and as a result my Evo would stall on ocassion. I'm hoping the stock air box will fix the problem.

I expect to hit the dyno this weekend for a full tuning session!

megatron

iTrader: (6)

good numbers. approximately what would the numbers look like if tested on a dynojet? i had very similar numbers with me 264 hks setup on a mustang dyno too.

91z28-350

iTrader: (3)

Works 269:
Duration of 269 deg
Duration of ___ deg @ 1mm
Lift of 10.8mm intake / 10.1mm exhaust
Stock valve springs OK

from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=125356&page=2

Flyin EVO 2

It's best to match your turbo's efficency range with the set of cam's. If your running a 16g the turbo starts running out of steam at around 6,500 rpm to 7,000 rpm. That's where 264's work great at. Now if you have a GT 35r that will continue to run past 8,000 rpm then you want a cam that's going to make power in that range so you would want to go with something like a 272. Now if you got a down right nasty T4 T70, or GT 42r now you want some crazy *** superman cam like a piper, or a HKS 280. Now you can either try to get more down low torque from a smaller cam or a little more power up top with an aggresive cam, but your not going to get as great of a gain if your cam is not matched to how much and when your turbo is flowing it's best.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Not be rude to anyone here but since this is a sticky and people are going to refer to it for "official" reference I think it would be best if "opinion" were left out of the thread. A few of the posts here are typical internet mis-information.

I have done a ton of actual dyno testing on quite a few different cams and seen a lot of whacked cam settings from whacked cam gear adjustments. I will leave my opinions out of this topic and just state the facts that I have seen on only cams.

I had the stock turbo on my RS until there was something else better and still stock appearing, the 20g-9-5. I have tested HKS 264's, 272's, 280's and Revolver 262-264's with the stock turbo and 20g-9-5's. Each time I have gone up in cams size the power has gone up. I have yet to notice any loss of power/torque down low from any of the above cams.

I don't see EVO's coming in with poor torque/hp numbers down low and while I am tuning them ask, "What cams are you running?" Thinking that is the culprit. If the hp/torque stinks I first look to see where the spool up is taking place, if it is where it should be then I will start asking questions. One common problem is a set of cam gears that have been "dialed" in.

All of the above cams, installed on stock gears and run at -0- have produced outstanding results with no loss of low end power. Only improvements.

My rule of thumb is run the largest cam you can tolerate for driving daily. With a reflash here is how I see the cams working: The 264 HKS cams are darn stock like drivability. The 264/272 HKS combo works excellent. The 272/272 HKS cams will require some additional tuning and a very well designed MAF inlet pipe or the stock one. The 280 HKS cams are rough idling, best way to get them to run smooth is stick with the stock MAF inlet pipe. The 264/262 Revolvers I do not feel are for a reflashed car at all.

Throw the above paragraph in the garbage if you are running a stand alone and you can pick any of the cams without a problem. The large overlap of the cams make it hard to keep a good smooth MAF signal and once you switch to speed density that problem is eliminated.

Roamer

Here is the link to the Comp Cams specs. However, it is difficult to match them to HKS, etc. since the lift and duration are referenced to english units of measure.

http://www.compcams.com/information/...iCamshafts.pdf