Yep I qualify.

 

I have the opinion that my problem is caused by heat. The car has an intake air temperature sensor built into the MAS, my car only acted up after like four hours of driving, when underhood temps. were super high. Car, I think, retarted boost b/c it thought the intake air was too hot. Check your MAS...perhaps it's f'd up?

 

I had it out....how can I tell if its F'ed up though? My car does it after about 30 minutes of driving....if i am pushing it hard...or if its pretty hot out...the hotter it is outside the faster the problem shows up.

 

Hi Man,
I dont know if you already solved your problem but since im just reading your post i recommend you to follow up the troubleshooting manual.
We had a problem with and old EVO IV. It allways took a year to get red line (even with a full throttle pedal depress). Boost pressure rapidly increased to the top: in 3rd gear we depressed the pedal to the limit, boost pressure showed ud 15psi (limited), no pressure drop but the car slowly increased rpmīs....3k...4k...5k....6k....(everything in almost 45seconds). There was no "faulty sensor" during ECU scan or any "engine warning lamp on" but performing it manually we discovered a problem in the TPS sensor and in the high temp sensor (located in the catalytic converter). To reach this point we (not the dealer) checked first every sensor such as: AFS - intake temp - barometric sensor (the three intagrated in the same box), engine coolant temp., crank angle, cam position, injectors, etc.
It is not an easy job, in fact we spent almost a whole day, but necessary as we never trusted dealer people and we needed to know anyway how those sensor were operating as all those send inputs to ECU to get the proper tachometer and speed values.

Hope you solved you problem, if so iīd like to know what was causing it...

cheers,

 

Hey how's it going...sorry I am on vacation right now and wasn;t able to respond very quick. I will have to pass that info along to the dealership. I still have no clue what is causing it. I actually left the car at the dealership for the week...this is basically going to be the last time I let them try and fix it. Its crap. I will let you know if they get it fixed and what caused it though when I get back. Thanks again for the great info...I may get this thing running right again yet...

 

I have the same problem than you describes Right know the dealer does not know what is the problem.

 

Damn man I hope you figure this thing out, that sucks big time. Sounds like it could be mad heatsoak,and the engine is pulling timing a bit, but that would mean that something in the cooling system is messed up. They check the intercooler make sure it is doing its job? I hope you figure it out soon.

Shane

 

For anyone that has been following the post we finally found the problem. After the dealership had been guessing at my problem for over a month they found that my fuel pump and fuel filter was fouled and had crap in it....causing a reduced flow in fuel flow and eventually starving the engine. Anyways they replaced both and everything works perfectly now. Thanks for all your help...this was a freak accident i think.

 

it does make full sense for me, however im not sure if they identified the source of the contamination as you are only fixing the consecuence of the main problem.
Hope there is no problem with the fuel tank, fuel rail or inyectors (did they clean them?). Once we expierenced excesive corrotion inside the fuel tank with almost the same failure result (because of the contamination) but in that case we started to noticed it when the fuel level light started to go "on" even with full fuel tank.

Good to hear your problem is now solved!!

 

Yeah i think the problem was that i dump some REDLINE water wetter in the gas tank on accident...because i had the redline fuel system cleaner too. I called the dealership before i ever started the car and they told me just to let it run through the system and that it would probably clean my spark plugs...apparently it had some sort of aluminized crap in the radiator fluid. This is what they told me anyways. But then again..they are idiots.

 

I did ask them whether there was a chance of stuff being in the fuel rail and what not...and they were like uhhh i dunno. Half *** repairs.....gotta love it.

 

BAH! I was about to post that, but I made sure to read all the way through the thread first. One question, though. Have you ever used (before this prioblem started) any fuel additives/fuel cleaners/octane boosters?

Just curious.

 

Yeah, some of that stuff proved to be very harmful to tanks (leading corrotion)...thatīs why we learned how to perform a zinc plating procedure in our fuel tanks : )

 

Not only will it cause damage to the fuel tank, they will also do damage to the rest of the fuel and combustion system. Welcome to the wonderful world of MMT's. Even though they say they won't cause harm to cat. converters or O2 sensors, they will still leave a residue on things like spark plugs, fuel pumps, fuel filters, injectors, regulators, etc. As far as the spark plugs go, you can usually see the ceramic turned a rusty color after the use of them. If there was any sign of this on your plugs, they COULD have made you eat the bill for the repairs. It specifically says in the manual that you should not use these.

Don't take this the wrong way. I'm not trying to scold you or anything. I'm just stating that they are harmful to modern fuel injected cars, regardless of what they want you to think. If you used them and got away with it (didn't have to pay) then you were lucky. If you didn't use them and these parts failed under normal use...Who knows? Maybe you got a really bad tank of gas or something?