Options to Cool 4G63T
Jul 23, 2004, 12:35 PM
#16
Originally Posted by EVOeight
If you want to see the ceramic coating I did, go here: http://users2.ev1.net/~subaru/evo_web/evo_exhaust.htm
The header wrap is made by ThermoTec, although there are several generic versions of the same material...
The header wrap is made by ThermoTec, although there are several generic versions of the same material...
Very very nice.. I recall seeing that a few weeks back and thinking to myself I should have gone that direction and not bought the new header or O2 housing.. Definitely another great way to go (And alot cheaper!!)
See, the thing i like best about extrudehoning stuff is the stuff they use is basically a fluid, so it finds the restrictions and turbulence on its own, and smooths it down.. otherwise you end up theorizing where the pockets of turbulence are and whatnot (which is what makes someone who can port and polish a head or manifold well. is a person you REALLY Should give alot of respect)
a big thumbs up for that..
Jul 23, 2004, 12:39 PM
#17
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is the ralliart thermostat any good.....i think its 68c...??? i have at home and i havent put it in because i just got my car tuned and i dont want lower temps cause rich conditions
Jul 23, 2004, 01:21 PM
#21
Originally Posted by ColinL
why honda coolant? just use redline water wetter. it works!
I’m no expert on this topic, so if someone knows more about this feel free to chime in.
Jul 23, 2004, 01:27 PM
#22
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Only if it drops the coolant temp to below the "Enrichment point" where the ECU thinks its in a cold climate..
Its not about making the engine much cooler, its about being able to shed excess heat under load to maintain an optimal temp..
Finally, an on-topic thread for what we were discussing earlier.. Here's my plan..
- Ceramic Coating of the Header, Turbine hot housing, O2 housing
- Upgraded Aluminum Radiator
- Better coolant
- cooler thermostat, but not much cooler than stock, just one that can flow more
Upgraded water pump, one that can move more coolant volume, but not FASTER since you want to move alot of coolant through the engine, but leave it in there long enough to pick up a reasonable amount of heat.
Also, some ancillary things such as again reducing restrictions that can in themselves cause more heat in the intake charge..
Now there's a few things that can be a double edged sword.. I was pondering ceramic coating the outside of my intake manifold, and intercooler pipes to keep the under-hood heat from absorbing through the components.. HOWEVER It also will end up retaining the heat inside the pipes.. and there's no documented evidence at this point to say whether this will work or do harm.
Other things, a true fresh air source for intake air and somehow getting more airflow through the radiator (though your guess is as good as mine on what to do)
Its not about making the engine much cooler, its about being able to shed excess heat under load to maintain an optimal temp..
Finally, an on-topic thread for what we were discussing earlier.. Here's my plan..
- Ceramic Coating of the Header, Turbine hot housing, O2 housing
- Upgraded Aluminum Radiator
- Better coolant
- cooler thermostat, but not much cooler than stock, just one that can flow more
Upgraded water pump, one that can move more coolant volume, but not FASTER since you want to move alot of coolant through the engine, but leave it in there long enough to pick up a reasonable amount of heat.
Also, some ancillary things such as again reducing restrictions that can in themselves cause more heat in the intake charge..
Now there's a few things that can be a double edged sword.. I was pondering ceramic coating the outside of my intake manifold, and intercooler pipes to keep the under-hood heat from absorbing through the components.. HOWEVER It also will end up retaining the heat inside the pipes.. and there's no documented evidence at this point to say whether this will work or do harm.
Other things, a true fresh air source for intake air and somehow getting more airflow through the radiator (though your guess is as good as mine on what to do)
very good point. if you warp or coat the manifold you could lower the engine bay heat but not the manifold itself as the hest will not escape anymore causing it to crack. best idea is move up north
Jul 27, 2004, 05:16 AM
#24
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talking of water pumps, i have seen a few people (on racers and kit cars) that have been using electric water pumps. these things are very good. they are lighter than a normal pump, have higher flow rates (partly coz you can get rid of the 'stat) and also only come on when you need them! they are i bit complicated to fit though as you need to fab a blocking plate for the pump and re-rout the coolent lines to the pump (which you can put anywhere). most of them come with, or you can get them with, electronic controlers that will turn the pump on and off at given temps. this means that the pump is only in use when it is needed, rather than going all the time as normal (saving power).
i think its a similar step to electric fans instead of belt driven. i admit, its not for the faint harted, and there are many more easier things that could be done.but still worth a mention.
thanks Chris.
i think its a similar step to electric fans instead of belt driven. i admit, its not for the faint harted, and there are many more easier things that could be done.but still worth a mention.
thanks Chris.
Jul 27, 2004, 09:37 AM
#27
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I should be getting my Ralliart thermostat today.
I will install and ONLY run distilled water and Waterwetter. (since it never gets below 50F here) I need to install a water temp gauge to really find out the results.
I also plan on checking my afr (wideband datalogger) and timing to see if the Ralliart stat makes it run rich. Will post results.
I will install and ONLY run distilled water and Waterwetter. (since it never gets below 50F here) I need to install a water temp gauge to really find out the results.
I also plan on checking my afr (wideband datalogger) and timing to see if the Ralliart stat makes it run rich. Will post results.
Jul 27, 2004, 02:17 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by bishiboy
Heat is our enemy. I live in the AZ desert and getting max performance with 91 octane has become an obsession!
The 1st mod I did was a PWR radiator (with Samco hoses). I have since put on a Greddy 1.3KpA Rad cap and have a Ralliart thermostsat enroute.
I made a custom bar and plate intercooler with custom upper pipes.
Now I'm looking at a bigger oil cooler, better fans and a cold air intake set-up.
What are some other areas I could look at to help cool this baby off?
It hit 115F today! Power is way down, timing is being pulled, and I'm running rich as hell.
I'm working on an Auqamist 2D water injection set-up, just have to save up a little more.
I'm trying to think out of the box. Any ideas will be entertained.
Thanks
The 1st mod I did was a PWR radiator (with Samco hoses). I have since put on a Greddy 1.3KpA Rad cap and have a Ralliart thermostsat enroute.
I made a custom bar and plate intercooler with custom upper pipes.
Now I'm looking at a bigger oil cooler, better fans and a cold air intake set-up.
What are some other areas I could look at to help cool this baby off?
It hit 115F today! Power is way down, timing is being pulled, and I'm running rich as hell.
I'm working on an Auqamist 2D water injection set-up, just have to save up a little more.
I'm trying to think out of the box. Any ideas will be entertained.
Thanks
Jul 27, 2004, 02:36 PM
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Anyone tried by passing the coolant lines to the TB? This may cause a problem during warmup at cooler climate, but I think it may help cool down the intake manifold a little.
-ob4
-ob4