Options to Cool 4G63T
#77
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Originally Posted by marksae
In addition to logging water temps, maybe you should try logging when your radiator fans turn on. Can you guys do that w/ the EMS and UTEC?
I can see "Clutch Switch", IAC Relay, A/C Relay, and I think Fan control..
I don't recall seeing if there was a logger that logged intake and coolant temps, and if they did, if it was on the same logger.. I really should suggest they add a configurable "Logger 7" that lets you build your own configurable output log based on all the information thats available.. (we all know most of us would likely tag EVERYTHING.. LOL)
And to the other question.. I just noticed it about 3 hours or so ago.. I didn't realize it until I checked my e-mail.. apparently I know something about these evos..
#79
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well since we are on this topic - how about the cryo system? anybody have any experience with it? some of the stuff they sell is crazy (cheetah crap), but the intake freeze looks interesting.
marc
marc
#81
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Short answer: A fine mist of water or water/alcohol (or other additives) is sprayed into the intake tract at high pressure. This has the effect of cooling the cylinder/head hot spots reducing chances of detonation and reducing the requirement of running extra rich (which uses fuel to cool the hot spot, which is much less efficient).
Some side benefits, a slight "steam cleaning" ,keeps carbon buildup down, running leaner= better gas milage and makes more power. You can run more timing and/or more boost.
Water is cheap.
A 4 qt water bottle can last 1 tank of gas, (depending on driving).
It's great for 91 octane, or hot weather, or both.
Do a search, there is much info.
Best system out there: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
Some side benefits, a slight "steam cleaning" ,keeps carbon buildup down, running leaner= better gas milage and makes more power. You can run more timing and/or more boost.
Water is cheap.
A 4 qt water bottle can last 1 tank of gas, (depending on driving).
It's great for 91 octane, or hot weather, or both.
Do a search, there is much info.
Best system out there: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
#85
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I've heard of guy putting a sure-flo on an AM system.
The Aquamist guy (forgot his name) said they fixed the old pump issue. They use a re-designed one now for the race pump. I tend to believe them since the rest of their componenets are top notch.
The Aquamist guy (forgot his name) said they fixed the old pump issue. They use a re-designed one now for the race pump. I tend to believe them since the rest of their componenets are top notch.
#87
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I am definitely getting an Aquamist system, the version that is proportionally controlled.. There is one thing I plan on adding to the system though, I'm currently in the process of creating a new boost control solenoid assembly, I want to see if there is a water level or system output (that shuts off the aquamist system) and use that to interrupt the solenoid actuation.. No water, no boost (or at least only wastegate pressure) the ultimate safety..
If SOMEONE from aquamist is lurking around.. CONTACT ME! I would like to work with you guys on this one.
If SOMEONE from aquamist is lurking around.. CONTACT ME! I would like to work with you guys on this one.
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Here is Richard Lamb's (ERL of UK) email: info@aquamist.co.uk
I also looked into a safety switch.
I thought I would keep my Dynoflashed ecu which is set at 11.0 afr, then lean out the afr with my HKS S-AFR down to 12.5:1 with the water flowing. Have the blocked water jet circuit of the WI system wired into a two way switch. If triggered, It would by-pass the HKS S-AFR and the ECU would go back to 11:1 afr.
I would just splice the switch into the MAF sensor wire running into the HKS.
Sounds good in theory, doesn't it?
I also looked into a safety switch.
I thought I would keep my Dynoflashed ecu which is set at 11.0 afr, then lean out the afr with my HKS S-AFR down to 12.5:1 with the water flowing. Have the blocked water jet circuit of the WI system wired into a two way switch. If triggered, It would by-pass the HKS S-AFR and the ECU would go back to 11:1 afr.
I would just splice the switch into the MAF sensor wire running into the HKS.
Sounds good in theory, doesn't it?
#89
this will seem slightly radical to most of you i think, but to us brits with V8 fwd Minis (old Minis) it allmost normal. you could mount a second radiator in the boot somewhere. this would be hell for boot space but it would give you another rad, or allow you to run a HUGE intercooler and stik the rad in the back. all you would need to do is cut a hole in the boot floor (maybe add some bracing bars for strength) sit the rad over the hole, and mount fans on top of the rad. then make some space for the air to get out and bingo! not sure how effective it would be, but i have seen it used over here on cars with little space up front! or in conjuction with the normal rad may help in very hot conditions.
thanks Chris.
thanks Chris.
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