This guy?

http://derekdevises.com/

 

This system has a bright LED that you can mount in plain view, if that light comes on then the fluid level is low. The system comes with a high volume high pressure pump and lines that are compatible with methanol. We'll supply instruction on how to mount the nozzle if you don't want us to do it. It's rather easy and just requires some drilling into the pipe with a step drill, just make sure you clean the shaving out of the pipe before installing it back in.
After I get the igntion system installed I'll be running tests on methanol (instead of water on this last test) and my goal is 550whp on 93 octane. I'll have a rough price and availability next week.

-Martin

 

Its very easy to tap your own pipe for the water injection nozzle. If you want to see what it looks like check out the aquamist site. You wont need to send it in.

 

The only problem I see with a combo methanol/water kit is that it is up to the user to buy the proper items and mix it correctly every time. In contrast a water only kit is easier to use, and if you are getting low on a road trip, you can go into any store to get distilled water.

The other issue is that methanol will evaporate much faster, and if it sits in your tank for 2 weeks, your 50/50 mix might no longer really be 50/50.

On my WI kit I will be running water only, as only very few people here really need the extra fuel. Also when tuned properly, its amazing how little water is actually needed. To be safe you need about 10% the amount of water as fuel. If you could tune it accurately enough, you only really need about 3%.

Personally I would treat the methanol as a different system, and if I add methanol, it will be from a separate tank/pump/etc, and I would probably set it up to run off a standard injector. Also keep in mind that although methanol is a high octane, you need twice as much of it. You would need 60 GPH of methanol to replace 30 GPH of high octane race fuel (number are made up).

Based on everything I have seen though, as usual people are going to have a great experience with any AMS kit they buy, and this will be no exception.

 

this is great stuff. I wish I had everything else ready on the car to do the WI kit.

 

AMS,

Is water injection something that you'd be comfortable using every day? I have an Autronic standalone and I don't believe that, if the water injection fails, it can be programmed to reduce timing, etc. I don't worry about running low on water as it's easy to put some type of warning light in place. What I do worry about is failing pumps, clogged lines, etc. What do you think?

 

The kit I'm working on will not tie into a stand-alone or stock computer. You could put a pressure switch on the system and trigger another set of maps in your standalone. I haven't used Autronic in a while, does it have aux. inputs, ie. two-step, nitrous, ect. In the AEM EMS you could have the switch activate your nitrous map and then have it just pull a lot of timing and dump a ton of fuel, enough to blow the spark out. The best solution would be to have an inline flow meter that has a display or is setup to failsafe a selenoid that feeds straight manifold pressure to the wastegate and you'd get base boost. That's the only absolutetly safest way to do it.
The system I'm working on has a filter before and after the pump to capture any debris, so that shouldn't be an issue. To answer your question, yes I would feel comfortably using the WI everyday :-)

 

alright AMS !! i m sold.. so tell me when will this kit be available?

 

oh one more question.. can this be use in the winter time?

 

Can some explain how the water injection can help boost up the octane or just simply how it works in the overall picture of power making. Thax

 

I'll try to do the quick version.
The waters job is simply to absorb heat, which is something water is better at than nearly anything else on the planet (if not the best).

Therefore the water injection is two fold.

The first is that the water absorbs some heat in the intake air tract, and thus gives you a denser air charge (although this is only a minor benefit).

The second thing WI does is absorb excess heat created during the combustion process. This basically slows and controls the flame front the same as higher octane fuel does. It also removes hot spots from the cylinder wall to prevent both pre-ignition and detonation.

Now what water injection does, most tuners already do, but with gasoline. Right now many people run at an 11:1 - 11.5:1 AFR, because they are dumping extra fuel that will not combust, simply to remove excess heat. The problem is that fuel is only about 50% as effective at this as water.
Therefore with water injection, you get the same cooling ability, using only half the volume (meaning more air is left), and you can do it using 12:1 AFR or possibly higher safely.
A leaner mixture is going to give you more power.

Just as in going from 93 - 110 octane fuel (where fuel dumping is used) you would have to re-tune the engine to take advantage, otherwise the water will actually just bog you down. This is why people want a warning system so that you dont run out of water, causing you to run lean with no safety net.

 

pretty much wrapped it up in a nutshell however the octane of the gas does play a big part in the A/F Ratio. IE: on 93 octane we tune for right around 11.8-11.9:1 on water injection on that same grade of gas you can see A/F ratios in the 12.3:1 range and still have it be completely safe. I know in my case at the track I run 12.5:1 on C16 and the car shows no detonation. As Tearitup put it..A/F is all relative to the Octane of the fuel which in turn is the chemical brakdown of the fuel. The Water takes pump gas and makes it react like Race gas.

Eric

 

Would a system like this turn your MPG to chit considering that your essentually making 93 octane work as if it were 100?

 

Actually quite the opposite. You are propelling the car more while using the same amount or less fuel.
HOWEVER, the WI is usually only used/activated under high boost conditions. Unless using a full pulse width standalone, typically you would use a simple on/off switch at around 10 psi of boost.
Therefore your gas mileage would go to pot because you are under boost and thus using a lot more fuel than if you were just cruising on the highway.
Theoretically I guess you might be able to improve gas mileage with WI, but it would not be significant, nor do I really see any need to.

 

thanks. I've been considering going with WI and my car is a daily driver so I need to maintain a decent MPG. In theory, could use use a multiple map system with a EMS or XEDE type of system and set up that could utilize WI when you wanted. ie to shut up the 16 yr old driving the VW golf next to you or on track days?