Are sodium filled valves worth the price difference?
#1
Are sodium filled valves worth the price difference?
I bought a head off of a guy on eBay (I think that he is a member here) and the add failed to disclose that several of the valves in the head were bent. I have sent him an e-mail about this, but no reply. Anyway, I am doing a light clean-up on the head i.e. integrating the seats into the head a little bit (look at some of Darhorse's threads) and then I am going to take it to a machine shop that I use to have the cam journals line honed, put new valve guides in sence the valves were bent, and put 1mm larger valves in the head. I have been looking at several different brand valves and I have a few questions for those who know. Ferrea sells valves that are sodium filled for better heat dissipation and I would assume reduced weight, but is there a large difference in the abilities of a pure stainless valve to the hollow stem? Also are the stock valve guides sufficient, or while in there is it better to go with the solid guides? I have found a set of stainless valves on eBay under 4G63, but I know nothing about them. Then there is Ferrea which Dave Buschur did not like for some reason, and they do sell the sodium filled, and Crower along with a few other. Some of you out there have a pretty good grasp on these things so any thoughts and opinions are appreciated. Also, completely off topic, but if anyone who reads this knows, is the 10.5 housing that FP sells a TD05HRA-16G6-10.5t or is it the real TME TD05RA-15GK2-10.5t? And what is the difference? Sorry for all of the random questions and thanks.
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#2
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I don't think that sodium filled valves are worth the difference in our applications, dude. They are used in aircraft engines and some diesels. We won't see a difference I don't think. Of course, the way you blow sht up, you may want to buy more security.
I would just go with the hollow stems. The lighter the valvetrain the better, right? We aren't building rockets.
However, buy the best you can afford. It's better than rebuilding again later.
Regarding the turbo, I barley know what a turbo is. I went to school at NAville.
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I would just go with the hollow stems. The lighter the valvetrain the better, right? We aren't building rockets.
However, buy the best you can afford. It's better than rebuilding again later.
Regarding the turbo, I barley know what a turbo is. I went to school at NAville.
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TD05HRA16G10.5T is the TME RS and the std evo VI turbo
TD05HRA15GK210.5T is the TME GSR turbo .. the compressor wheel is smaller (65mm vs 68mm) .. spools way much faster than std turbos .. but runs out of steam pretty quickly too
Sodium filled valves serves 2 purposes .. it fills up the hollow stem and it acts as a coolant .. 1 reason why sodium filled valves are used in exhaust valves..
Hollow also means its supposed to be lighter .. though I rather use titanium
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The advertised valves are for the older 4G63 engines (ie talon evo I-III engines) but I think they can be used on the newer 4G63s .. better to get confirmation 1st before diving headfirst into the pool !!
TD05HRA15GK210.5T is the TME GSR turbo .. the compressor wheel is smaller (65mm vs 68mm) .. spools way much faster than std turbos .. but runs out of steam pretty quickly too
Sodium filled valves serves 2 purposes .. it fills up the hollow stem and it acts as a coolant .. 1 reason why sodium filled valves are used in exhaust valves..
Hollow also means its supposed to be lighter .. though I rather use titanium
![Big Grin](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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The advertised valves are for the older 4G63 engines (ie talon evo I-III engines) but I think they can be used on the newer 4G63s .. better to get confirmation 1st before diving headfirst into the pool !!
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VW/Audi has used sodium filled valves for years, ever since the introduction of the 16V. My "old" 2000 S4 with a 2.7L TT had sodium filled valves too. So they're not limited to exotic applications.
I'd consider using the sodium exhaust valves, especially since my car sees extended periods at high RPMs on the track. Some beefier, longer valve guides are probably in order to help cope with the increased heat transfer and slightly weaker stem. Darkhorse has done some mods to the valve guides to improve the stability of the valves.
I'd consider using the sodium exhaust valves, especially since my car sees extended periods at high RPMs on the track. Some beefier, longer valve guides are probably in order to help cope with the increased heat transfer and slightly weaker stem. Darkhorse has done some mods to the valve guides to improve the stability of the valves.
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Well i would go with the Ferrea vavles 1mm over. I dont know were you got the info about Dave not liking those but they are the valves that he uses in all his race engines. Maybe Darkhorse can chime in on this but after talking to him they are the vavles that he recommends also. Im basically doing the same thing as you right now (Bluepring and Balance, Rods, Pistons, Valve job, Springs 7 Retainers, ect. ect.) and i would have to agree with a previous post. All you can do is get what you can afford. In the long run you will be much happier!!
Chris
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Chris
#7
I am thinking about going with their competition plus on the intake side and their competition plus sodium filled on the exhaust. I need to ask them about their super alloy valves as well. I am sure that the Ti's are out of my price range so I am not even thinking about them. I had read where David said that the Ferrea's wre the worst valves that he had ever used on a post where Al was talking about having larger valves put in his head a while back, but maybe something has changed since then. I would love to do rods and pistons as well, but I do not think that the money is there, and I do not know if I need them if I am only going to be running a TD05HRA-16G6-10.5t turbo and not a really big'un.
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