caymandiver75

iTrader: (1)

I currently have 20k miles on my evo and I'm just hearing about everyone's clutch going out. How can you tell when it is going out besides the obvious (rpms climbing but no acceleration) I have notices just lately that my boost isn't spooling as fast as it used to. Maybe the weather or other conditions, but i do know i'm not leaking boost as I am still holding 19-20psi to redline.

evo81

iTrader: (30)

it's slipping

caymandiver75

iTrader: (1)

Well I am fairly sure it is not slipping, but there is some kind of power loss going on as if the car is in some kind of funk ever since my SES light has been coming on weekly. One guy told me that he had a similar problem as me with the Service Engine Soon light coming on with the full 3" exhaust with a high flow cat and has been fixed by adding a o2 simulator and he got power back. Is there really some kind of open loop program the ECU goes into once you get a SES light and does the ECU continue to be in limp moded even when the light is off?

SuperHatch

iTrader: (23)

It totally blows me away that you can make that kind of conclusion from what he wrote. It seems completely ignorant to me. "I have 20k miles on my clutch and I don't notice the RPMs climb without acceleration, however I do notice a power loss and poor boost response".... "Oh well your clutch is slipping sir" Give me a break....

If you're not noticing your RPMs climb without acceleration, and the pedal still grabs at a reasonable position in it's travel, chances are your clutch is not bad. I would keep an eye on it with the miles your car has, but if you've never launched your car I wouldn't be suprised if your clutch is just fine.

When your car gets the SES light, how do you get rid of it? If you're disconnecting your battery every time it happens to reset the ECU, your car will seem down on power. From what I understand... the Evo ECU learns as time goes on. If you constantly reset it, it will constantly need to relearn for the type of fuel in your area, etc. I notice a drop in power when I disconnect my battery and reset my ECU, and it takes time for the car to get back where it was.

Now if you're using a code checker and resetting the ECU without disconnecting the battery, this shouldn't be the case.

Are you checking the code when you get it? Or are you just assuming it's an O2/Catalytic Inefficiency code since you have a test pipe? The reason I ask this is because it might not be an O2 related code. There are a large number of members getting Random Misfire codes and that could very well be the source of your power loss.

If you are checking your codes and it is an O2 code, the O2 simulators work. I'm currently using a Perrin Test Pipe with their O2 simulator and I havn't gotten a code in 9k miles. Besides using a simulator a lot of members here have been sucessful using a spark plug anti-foul spacer on the O2 to move it out of the direct exhaust flow. It helps reduce the readings on the sensor but it still heat cycles as it should. Tricks the ECU and codes goes away, it's a nice trick if you don't want an O2 simulator. Either one should help get rid of the code, if you search you'll find plenty of info on both.

HTH

- Steve

jbrennen

iTrader: (1)

I didn't read his response as any kind of conclusion, but then maybe I'm just giving the benefit of the doubt... I read his response as:

Original poster: How can you tell when your clutch is going bad(?)

Responder: (If) it's slipping



It's also possible to read the original post a little differently and to think that he was actually reporting a symptom of "rpms climbing but no acceleration" ...

Stockfornow...

iTrader: (2)

When you drive off the lot....

caymandiver75

iTrader: (1)

Steve.... man that was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time and responding back with some useful comments. I never even heard of the anti-foul spacer before, which sounds cool, but I will give Buschur a call and see what he thinks. Oh and I will be taking my car and have the codes read soon. If it is a po300 i'll be working with WORKS to have that taken care of since the dealer will end up reflashing my ECU and if it is a P4 type code I'll work with Buschur and get some kind of O2 simulator going. Speaking of the power, what you said makes sense to me esp now since I have about 200 miles back on the ecu since resetting it the car seems to have it's power back again until the light comes back on Anyway, thanks again. I'll keep you posted on what I found out.

SuperHatch

iTrader: (23)

Well if you only read the title, and type a response, then yeah, I can see that as a response, but even at that it's still a weak one. I mean, maybe it's just obvious to me, but yeah, a slipping clutch is a bad one.

I can't see it that way, but maybe it's just me...

Well, doesn't really matter much.

- Steve

SuperHatch

iTrader: (23)

Glad to know I helped out. Please do keep us posted.

- Steve

evo81

iTrader: (30)

the clutch ain't holding the power.easy answer was "it's slipping".its not a big slip like the rpm shoot up when your pushing the gas.i had a simluar problem.i just had too much power for the stock clutch to handle.the stock clutch could still handle it normal driving,you would only be able to notice it when you step on the gas.he should look into an after market clutch anyways.i'm sure he'll want more mods.he's at 20k on the car.he's looking for someone to give him the answer"go buy a new clutch".i'm sure caymandiver75 just needed some thoughts before making his final choice on what the problem was.also he never said anything about how he's been driving the car or what other mods he has on the car.the second post he made was completely different.but off of what was said in the first post& topic,i'll stick with my answer.i could sit here,and write up a good story on wants going on with his car if i wanted to.i think my answer was short & sweet & to the point.calling it a ignorant post is kinda bold.he didn't give much,so i didn't give much.SuperHatch don't be a f*ckboy,and call someone out on there posting.i do agree with you about the what you did post up about the ecu has to relearn.if he would of started the thread with that post, it would of been a different answer.

SuperHatch

iTrader: (23)

The reason I still can't see the clutch being the problem from the first post is that the only symptom he gives is that the car doesn't build boost as fast. I don't see how a clutch could relate to that, maybe you do and can share. I've had a failing clutch myself, and once it starts to slip, it never really seems to go back. But that's my experience. I've never had a clutch slip, then grab as the RPMs increased.

jbrennen

iTrader: (1)

For what it's worth, I've had a Vishnu Stage 1+ with well over 300 WHP since January, including a full season of autocross, at least 60 "tree" launches at ProSolo events (60' times around 1.8 seconds), and as a daily driver from January to July, and the stock clutch is still going strong. Total mileage on the car is around 17000 miles.

From my experience, I would have to say that at least some stock Evo clutches can handle extended use under sometimes stressful conditions.

I don't think that the original poster is describing a clutch problem. In my opinion.

I'd agree with that as long as you're talking about an ongoing pattern of slipping. I've had single instances of my clutch slipping quote noticeably, but after giving the clutch some time to cool off, it returns to normal and works great.

berkel

iTrader: (5)

I also have an SES light, which I think it either my highflow cat or possiblyt the misfire code. I don't think it's the misfire code, but I haven't confirmed yet.

Do both of these lights mean less performance aka limp mode? I "thought" that the 02/cat SES light was a "soft" light and didn't affect performance. This was based only on other posts I've read, no real info. My car has been running great ever since switching back to stock plugs (I had fouled my Denso iridiums) and getting t-bolt clamps and Samco hoses (must have had a leak making me run rich).

Anyway, on the clutch topic, my stock clutch has 24k miles and it seems to hold fine. NO autoxes or drag strip runs, but I have experiemented with a GTECH. I did get burnt clutch smell with some of my launch attempts, but it still seems ok. I was getting some chatter, especially when it was cold, like in the morning. I really thought it was on its way out, but surprisingly, the chattering is now gone since the t-bolt clamps and stock plugs. "isn't that weird?" I was thinking the car could be running better, not so rich, down low and it lets the car pull away cleanly? In a previous car (N/A Integra GSR), my Exedy was on it's way out with frequent burning and chattering...

Thoughts?

FB