striderx88

iTrader: (4)

wats the best rpm to change for normal driving second day driving the evo 8 still not use to it

RTS EVO VIII

iTrader: (3)

shift at 7500rpm...best for daily driving.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

you should stick to 3000 rpm shift. just watch out you don't bogg on 4th and 5th.

What you need to do is vary RPM's when you break in.

Unless you believe in that whole "run it like hell as soon as you get it. It'll seal your engine gaskets and strengthen your engine" theory.

I usually shift at 7000 rpm on normal driving. lol If I feel generous toward my car, I'll shift at 3500 RPM.

lol

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

from what I heard, it's best after the car's been broken in to shift at 4000 rpm, but I think 3000 to 3500 rpm is fine.

redline and torque is rated at 7300 rpm and 3500 rpm.

Jakeg97

iTrader: (56)

its written in the owners manual
recommended shift speed
lower rpm is better

Nad1370

iTrader: (1)

^^ Yep.

just don't lug it.

evolucion

3000 RPM here

Cabo

3000 RPMs is a good, safe number. You can take it up higher (5000 according to the 2003 manual), but I would take it easy until the break-in period is over.


Cabo

Evolboost

Newb question: What happens when the engine boggs (ex. going too low RPM in 5th gear) and how it is bad for the engine?

jcnel_evo8

iTrader: (2)

I try to shift on what I may say is a 'loading' plateau ... that is where the motor seems to be making power really easily, and things seem to be in harmony. lol ... Yoga for your EVO! Just kidding.

This place seems to be between 3.5k and 4.5k rpm. I usually shift from 1 to 2, and 2 to 3 at 4k, and then 3 to 4 and 4 to 5 at 3k to 3.5k.

Interesting that this motor in a lot more smooth than a lot of stock Hondroid or Toyota motors.

Later,

jcnel.

jcnel_evo8

iTrader: (2)

You typically run a really rich charge, and don't get a good burn in the cylinder, and over time things tend to carbon more easily.

Bogging in my mind also seems to produce potentially higher chamber temperatures because the pressure of the air-fuel mixture is dwelling longer in the chamber and not pushing the piston down, and so that energy gets converted to heat.

I used to see this a lot on my digital temperature thermometer on my sportbike. If I was going up a canyon in say 5th gear, and running in bog mode, my temp. meter would shoot up like 15 deg. As soon as I dropped to 4th gear, cyl. temperatures would come down. I'm not personally sure on this, but its just an idea.

From my aircraft mechanic father's idea, he tends to think that bearings and rings get a more non-cyclic workout causing problems like oil burning and bearing race out of roundness / wear.

Just a few ideas ...

jcnel.

EvoLife

Is there a downloadable map for that

striderx88

iTrader: (4)

i shifted at 5.5 rpm a few time is tat gonna affect my engine only 210 miles right now

zach34

iTrader: (8)

It shouldn't affect anything if you just did it a few times.

With the clutch depressed I redlined the Evo I was test driving. It was an accident, it started to stall and I slammed on the clutch and the gas at the same time...

I've only driven 3 manual cars, I'm not very good.

pharmd98

Take it easy on the engine and shift before 5 krpm. Just vary the rpm alot in the first couple of thousand miles. Don't slam on the brake too hard. One more tip, use regular oil in the first 2 thousand miles, it will help your engine break in properly.