Gtech Pro RR runs
#16
My car + fuel tank full + my weight = 3380lbs [JDM version]
Did a run with my PRO RR and it gave me 254 at the wheels (don't forget that these runs are real life = wind force plus drag)
Did a run with my PRO RR and it gave me 254 at the wheels (don't forget that these runs are real life = wind force plus drag)
#18
Originally Posted by EVOtagger
i read a mag article on this piece...they kept having problems with it falling off the windshield b/c the suction cup sucks...it was pretty accurate though
Im sure there pretty close...i remember the original one,was darn close....
matched with track times the car was capable of.... still for that amount of coin, id only buy one for the car left stock, otherwise its wasted cash and a prolong in that performance part you need! lol
just my 2 cent
#19
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Originally Posted by sirploppy
After you calibrate the tach on the Gtech, You can set the shifter light to kick in at any desired RPM. It's accurate too...
I used mine at the track and it was always within a few hundreths of a second of my time slip (+-<.03 sec).
Also, no problems with it sticking to the windshield.
Last edited by robertrinaustin; Mar 29, 2005 at 06:33 PM.
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Originally Posted by EVOtagger
i read a mag article on this piece...they kept having problems with it falling off the windshield b/c the suction cup sucks...it was pretty accurate though
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Originally Posted by Mercenary3
Those power/torque plots are somewhat consistent. Any idea how accurate they are compared to a real dyno???
I made the g-tech run on a night with the temp around 40 degrees. With my intercooler sprayed down to cool it. How much extra power is the colder temp all that worth???? I Dunno. Here is a rough comparison:
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Originally Posted by robertrinaustin
What rpm scale did you use? I can't get my to calibrate very well.
I used mine at the track and it was always within a few hundreths of a second of my time slip (+-<.03 sec).
Also, no problems with it sticking to the windshield.
I used mine at the track and it was always within a few hundreths of a second of my time slip (+-<.03 sec).
Also, no problems with it sticking to the windshield.
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After I calibrated it by holding the throttle at different RPMs, it then went into a mode where it told me to hold it at 2k and select a calibration where it was most accurate. You go through about 15 selections.
Originally Posted by Cajun Power
I calibrated it where it asks you to go to different RPM's and hit OK then it seems to be spot on. When I move it between vehicle I have to re-calibrate it or when I put it in my EVO the RPM jumps up while cruising at 3K it jumps to 6k. I think the pulses are soo small that if it is not calibrated it loses count and reads harmonics of the RMP and ends up doubling the RPM's.
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Originally Posted by sirploppy
After I calibrated it by holding the throttle at different RPMs, it then went into a mode where it told me to hold it at 2k and select a calibration where it was most accurate. You go through about 15 selections.
It asked how many cylinders and all that......
I had to go thru that once. I think it does that it it is having a hard time reading the pulses. I "think" that if you don't hit the rmps pretty close on the calibration it asks for that too. Try to start over with the calibration and make sure you hold the RMP's solid when you hit "OK" and hold for a sec after. That may help it to learn better.
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Originally Posted by Cajun Power
I dyno'ed at 325 to the wheels. with lttile airflow thru the front end. Temp around 80 degrees.
I made the g-tech run on a night with the temp around 40 degrees. With my intercooler sprayed down to cool it. How much extra power is the colder temp all that worth???? I Dunno. Here is a rough comparison:
I made the g-tech run on a night with the temp around 40 degrees. With my intercooler sprayed down to cool it. How much extra power is the colder temp all that worth???? I Dunno. Here is a rough comparison: