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Gtech Pro RR runs

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Old Mar 28, 2005, 06:49 PM
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My car + fuel tank full + my weight = 3380lbs [JDM version]

Did a run with my PRO RR and it gave me 254 at the wheels (don't forget that these runs are real life = wind force plus drag)
Old Mar 28, 2005, 07:06 PM
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i read a mag article on this piece...they kept having problems with it falling off the windshield b/c the suction cup sucks...it was pretty accurate though
Old Mar 29, 2005, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by EVOtagger
i read a mag article on this piece...they kept having problems with it falling off the windshield b/c the suction cup sucks...it was pretty accurate though
lol

Im sure there pretty close...i remember the original one,was darn close....
matched with track times the car was capable of.... still for that amount of coin, id only buy one for the car left stock, otherwise its wasted cash and a prolong in that performance part you need! lol

just my 2 cent
Old Mar 29, 2005, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sirploppy
After you calibrate the tach on the Gtech, You can set the shifter light to kick in at any desired RPM. It's accurate too...
What rpm scale did you use? I can't get my to calibrate very well.

I used mine at the track and it was always within a few hundreths of a second of my time slip (+-<.03 sec).

Also, no problems with it sticking to the windshield.

Last edited by robertrinaustin; Mar 29, 2005 at 06:33 PM.
Old Mar 29, 2005, 08:00 PM
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Thats sweet, my friends got one. I might have to barrow it for a bit :P
Old Mar 29, 2005, 08:28 PM
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Those power/torque plots are somewhat consistent. Any idea how accurate they are compared to a real dyno???
Old Mar 30, 2005, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 4TUN8
0-60 in 4.5 seconds.....yeah you didn't rev it to 5 grand and dump it
I spun the tires.... Damn country roads!
Old Mar 30, 2005, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOtagger
i read a mag article on this piece...they kept having problems with it falling off the windshield b/c the suction cup sucks...it was pretty accurate though
If you correctly install the suction cup that thing cannot fall of. It feels like it would pull out the windshield if you tried to pull it out. There is a tensioner dial on the suction that you have to adjust to preload the suction. Once done correctly you tighten the mounting cup in place and "BAM" it's good to go!. I have moved it between 4 vehicles and it has never slipped, moved, shifted, or fallen off. And one is 475RWHP with 550 pounds of torque (lightning with mods). So I would say that it just plain rocks!
Old Mar 30, 2005, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mercenary3
Those power/torque plots are somewhat consistent. Any idea how accurate they are compared to a real dyno???
I dyno'ed at 325 to the wheels. with lttile airflow thru the front end. Temp around 80 degrees.

I made the g-tech run on a night with the temp around 40 degrees. With my intercooler sprayed down to cool it. How much extra power is the colder temp all that worth???? I Dunno. Here is a rough comparison:
Attached Thumbnails Gtech Pro RR runs-gtech-vs-dyno.jpg  
Old Mar 30, 2005, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by robertrinaustin
What rpm scale did you use? I can't get my to calibrate very well.

I used mine at the track and it was always within a few hundreths of a second of my time slip (+-<.03 sec).

Also, no problems with it sticking to the windshield.
I calibrated it where it asks you to go to different RPM's and hit OK then it seems to be spot on. When I move it between vehicle I have to re-calibrate it or when I put it in my EVO the RPM jumps up while cruising at 3K it jumps to 6k. I think the pulses are soo small that if it is not calibrated it loses count and reads harmonics of the RMP and ends up doubling the RPM's.
Old Mar 30, 2005, 08:53 AM
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After I calibrated it by holding the throttle at different RPMs, it then went into a mode where it told me to hold it at 2k and select a calibration where it was most accurate. You go through about 15 selections.

Originally Posted by Cajun Power
I calibrated it where it asks you to go to different RPM's and hit OK then it seems to be spot on. When I move it between vehicle I have to re-calibrate it or when I put it in my EVO the RPM jumps up while cruising at 3K it jumps to 6k. I think the pulses are soo small that if it is not calibrated it loses count and reads harmonics of the RMP and ends up doubling the RPM's.
Old Mar 30, 2005, 09:00 AM
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How are you considering the total vehicle weight?
Old Mar 30, 2005, 10:42 AM
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I used GVWR not curb weight. My bad. I looked at the sticker in the door. I will have to adjust the weight.
Old Mar 30, 2005, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by sirploppy
After I calibrated it by holding the throttle at different RPMs, it then went into a mode where it told me to hold it at 2k and select a calibration where it was most accurate. You go through about 15 selections.

It asked how many cylinders and all that......

I had to go thru that once. I think it does that it it is having a hard time reading the pulses. I "think" that if you don't hit the rmps pretty close on the calibration it asks for that too. Try to start over with the calibration and make sure you hold the RMP's solid when you hit "OK" and hold for a sec after. That may help it to learn better.
Old Mar 30, 2005, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajun Power
I dyno'ed at 325 to the wheels. with lttile airflow thru the front end. Temp around 80 degrees.

I made the g-tech run on a night with the temp around 40 degrees. With my intercooler sprayed down to cool it. How much extra power is the colder temp all that worth???? I Dunno. Here is a rough comparison:
OK, so about 15 hp above with the colder air. Seems somewhat close. IDK if the air is worth 15 hp but at least the colder run is above the warmer one. Seems to correlate at least.


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