ivanko

FWIW, many rally race shops remove the ACD system because of it's weight.


My Evo 7 RS came standard w/ ACD, but no AYC.

chrisw

iTrader: (2)

sounds like your getting on the boost too early past the apex. A front LSD will only make your problem worse.

Changing your driving habits is far cheaper than your dream of S-AYC

[edit]

From your description it also sounds like your not braking hard enough for the hairpin. Hell dude, you probably have better brakes than the guy your passing. If you enter the hairpin at a slower speed, then you will have a lesser tendency to understeer leaving the corner, you know, in slow out fast

machron1

iTrader: (1)

I appreciate your advice, but I've tried every line through there I could possibly imagine. The best way to deal with it is to swing way wide and slow, flip a *****, then punch it after I'm pointing straight again. This is not really what I would like to do, because I feel like I'm doing parking lot maneuvers I fail to see how a front LSD wouldn't help my inside front tire from hanging in the air and spinning while my outside front tire just sits there and all the while I'm simply being pushed straight by the rear tires instead of accelerating out in the direction I'm pointing. I also fail to see how accelerating the outside rear tire (AYC) wouldn't help rotate my car as per the 3rd step in the diagram posted previously.

EDIT: I'm talking about the first and second turns after the straight (running clockwise, starting from the straight on the bottom)

OldschoolEVO

iTrader: (24)

I am not even sure AYC is good for rain. It rains alot here in Belgium and it makes the car oversteer to much and when you let off the gas it gets worse. BUT and a Big But it is the system works pretty good during the dry. My biggest gripe is it is too much crap. If you wheel allignment is off alittle but the system will kill itself. When ever I check my fluids I have to remember to check the little boobie-traped compartment for the AYC oil. I will say this too. When it is time to change the TRANSFERCASE oil (not AYC oil) she will definitly let you know

osunick

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I understand your reasons for wanting AYC, just trying not to get your hopes up because I really don't think it's possible for anyone who doesn't have a lot of money and expertise. Working for a car company I can tell you that it is awfully hard to retrofit options on to a car that wasn't built with it, for reasons that aren't always immediately obvious. You would be better off buying an EDM LHD evo and just swapping the VIN plates. (you didn't hear this from me) Cheaper too.

machron1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Not swapping the VIN plates (It's not worth THAT much to me lol...I like living outside of a cage) but a guy that used to work where I work had a fully registered Evo 6.5 TME RS(2?) LHD. If he can do it, I'm certain there is some way for me to do it as well. I wish he didn't move I wanted to ride in that damn thing lol. HKS bottom end, over 400 AWHP, Autronic ECU, etc. what a beast!

I was really hoping everything ran off the same hydraulic pump & everything. I think that would have made things a lot easier if the USDM IX doesn't end up coming with S-AYC. Damn why did make everything so damn complicated lol. If the UDSM Evo IX doesn't come with S-AYC I will seriously start looking at how to import/legalize a LHD RS2 version of it. Maybe I can track down that guy w/ the 6.5 & see how he did it. Then I'll upgrade it with GSR goodies and it should be right as rain. Should be the last best 4G63 Evo (MIVEC ) so I think if there is an Evo to do that to, it would be that one.

Or maybe I can fit the Acura TL driveline...or the Skyline AWD system...hmmmmm...

machron1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thanks for the advice, I guess if I get a JDM/Euro spec RS2 LHD I will have to make sure to order the service manuals as well. I could imagine the look on the face of the local mechanic when he sees an AYC system lol. What fluid does the AYC system use anyway? I can't imagine the acual diff using anything but some sort of GL-5 hypoid gear oil w/ a friction modifier for the clutch packs in the diff, and the hydraulic lines between the pump & the diff being brake fluid or something like that.

OldschoolEVO

iTrader: (24)

machron1 I am going to tell you everything I know about MY AYC. I dont know about the S-AYC but it could be better. The pic I posted is of an AYC equiped Evo. If anyone has ever changed their own TC oil this will look familiar with the exception of a few things.

The circles in yellow are for the AYC "Hydraulic Fluid" Someone correct me if I am wrong this fluid actually "works" the clutch plates. Somewhat like the hydraulic fluid on your brakes. The fluid needs to be changed with the MUT-II tool from Mitsu. It cycles the plates and flushes the air and fluid out. It it rumored that one could change this manually but lifting the car, draining the oil, turning the front wheels, and some other stuff. Some people have done it, but I dont know if they were successful. Mitsu doesnt even make the fluid anymore (I dont think). Some of the guys in the UK are using power-steering fluid (I think).

The circles in red are the TC mechanism. This the the part that uses ATF-SPIII. Without a pump this stuff is extremelly messy to change. It should be changed about every 3-10k miles. Or it will let you know when it is time to be changed. During quick transition driving the diff will give out a real loud moan or whine. It will sound similar to a Donkey or drunk elephant in you trunk. But once you flush the oil it will be fine.

The other drain plug is for the actual gears. It takes 75w90 oil.

Changing the TC and gearbox is a simple as changing the oil on your car. Simple drop and fill. In my Evo 6 I use Royal Purple ATF oil for the TC and 75w85 oil for tranny and gear boxes. I have about 1500 miles on my car with this set up. The car runs excellently with over 50k original miles. I havent got around to changing the AYC hydraulic fluid yet but everything is fine for now. My ayc light came on once and I took the car in for a wheel allignment and everything is ok for now.

This is all I know about the system and if anyone finds my info to be incorrect let me know so we can get this subject right. Also the UK Evo site is best place to learn from....its where I got all my info.

lacartus

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I see how the AYC helps in a turn, but as others have said, it's unrealistic to adapt your EVO VIII to AYC. My point is that the ACD alone would help your problem on the track. While you are in that turn with your inside tire in the air, you say your rear wheels are pushing you off the line (understeer). With the ACD, as the diagram shows, power is cut to the rear wheels so they won't push you off line and the helical front diff continues to power that outside tire and pull you around the turn even though the inside tire is off the ground. Take an '05 EVO for a test drive and create a similar situation (empty parking lot) and see how it pulls through the turn. You may just want to upgrade to an '05 (attainable versus AYC) to end your track frustration.

Maron

Yeah they will S-AYC their asssses in the ditches soon enough thinking it will be superman. WHy not just become a better driver first.

Maron

and please keep in mind that you need to be on the gas for this to happen as without power, the diffs are not working for you to transfer the power.

Celm

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=machron1]I know it transfers torque left & right, that's why I want it. What exactly is S-AYC fluid and why would it be different from the active center diff fluid?QUOTE]

the AYC and S-AYC shares the same fluid as the US ACD,its Automatic Tranny fluid.
the JDM/EURO evos dont have a resivour for there ACD in the engine bay like the US evos.it doesnt have one at all.only has for the AYC

machron1

iTrader: (1)

Ah, once again the USDM gets some one-off kludge solution. I guess that's why JDM cars can maintain their intercooler squirters.