EVO VIII understeer
#16
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its probably an rs or gsr that has the ayc taken out. wrc evos dont use ayc. claudius knows what he's talkin about.
Last edited by fishsauce; Feb 15, 2003 at 01:46 AM.
#20
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You can kick out with or without AYC...but to balance and maintain the drift is different matter...especially with AYC. Maintaining the tail end out throughout the entire corner and keeping the proper apex of the turn without losing much speed. If you can do that at high speeds you've got some skills...if you can do that and still fight off the AYC corrections then you need come Japan and turn PRO
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#21
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Originally posted by EVOJOE
ever driven an ayc evo?
ever driven an ayc evo?
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Originally posted by EVOJOE
of course you can get the tail out. You can get the car in all sorts of positions.
of course you can get the tail out. You can get the car in all sorts of positions.
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#22
Evo VIII understeer
Hi All,
My background is roadracing so my comments are based on that discipline. I have never rallied, nor have I had an AWD car on track. If you can avoid it, never screw up one end of the car to balance it. Toe out in the rear is a recipe for snap oversteer. When my car arrives, it will be track-tested fairly quickly. Initial set-up will be: Front camber and toe -2 degrees, 2mm toe out. Rear camber and toe -1 degree, 0 toe. Hoosier 245/40/17 tires front and rear. If the car still pushes with this setup, go with LSD up front. If the push is still there, good dampers with more rebound up front will help. If all this dose'nt do it, then and only then would I consider screwing up the back end. I race a Touring car with SCCA so no sway-bar changes allowed. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
My background is roadracing so my comments are based on that discipline. I have never rallied, nor have I had an AWD car on track. If you can avoid it, never screw up one end of the car to balance it. Toe out in the rear is a recipe for snap oversteer. When my car arrives, it will be track-tested fairly quickly. Initial set-up will be: Front camber and toe -2 degrees, 2mm toe out. Rear camber and toe -1 degree, 0 toe. Hoosier 245/40/17 tires front and rear. If the car still pushes with this setup, go with LSD up front. If the push is still there, good dampers with more rebound up front will help. If all this dose'nt do it, then and only then would I consider screwing up the back end. I race a Touring car with SCCA so no sway-bar changes allowed. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
#23
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Re: Evo VIII understeer
Originally posted by wtz
Hi All,
My background is roadracing so my comments are based on that discipline. I have never rallied, nor have I had an AWD car on track. If you can avoid it, never screw up one end of the car to balance it. Toe out in the rear is a recipe for snap oversteer. When my car arrives, it will be track-tested fairly quickly. Initial set-up will be: Front camber and toe -2 degrees, 2mm toe out. Rear camber and toe -1 degree, 0 toe. Hoosier 245/40/17 tires front and rear. If the car still pushes with this setup, go with LSD up front. If the push is still there, good dampers with more rebound up front will help. If all this dose'nt do it, then and only then would I consider screwing up the back end. I race a Touring car with SCCA so no sway-bar changes allowed. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Hi All,
My background is roadracing so my comments are based on that discipline. I have never rallied, nor have I had an AWD car on track. If you can avoid it, never screw up one end of the car to balance it. Toe out in the rear is a recipe for snap oversteer. When my car arrives, it will be track-tested fairly quickly. Initial set-up will be: Front camber and toe -2 degrees, 2mm toe out. Rear camber and toe -1 degree, 0 toe. Hoosier 245/40/17 tires front and rear. If the car still pushes with this setup, go with LSD up front. If the push is still there, good dampers with more rebound up front will help. If all this dose'nt do it, then and only then would I consider screwing up the back end. I race a Touring car with SCCA so no sway-bar changes allowed. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
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