I think if I've been reading this correctly, what you send, is what you get back, with a 20G wheel and whatever is needed to make it fit.. so if your turbine is iconnel, thats what you'll get back.. I think if you want to get back the TiAl components, you either have to send him a turbo that has it already, or buy a new one..

At least this is the interpretation I've gotten from this..

 

Whats the turn around time when we send you the turbo? Also when will u begin this process of selling?

 

Wow, I'll definitely have to jump on this. I'll wait and see how further testing turns out. Amazing numbers by the way! Congrats man!

 

That's odd. 12.5/11.5 = 108%. Especially since you're on the aem, that extra 8 percent should have put you back to 11.5

 

This will be the make it or break it for this turbo. There are a few people running AEM EMS, but most of us run reflashed ecu's. Take a basic bolt on car, or a stock car and put your 20g on it and see what kind of dyno numbers you can put down.

I'd drive the 5 or 6 hours for you to do it on my basic bolt on car. I'm very hesitant about tuners testing cars with engine management, it makes an extreme difference when using an aftermarket turbo, the MAF restricts that much IMO.

I know it sounds like BS, and I know you guys probably don't need a test car, but if you do need one, I have the time and the energy.

 

so your saying 94 octane and stock turbo produced 11.7, 116mph
and the 20g with 118 octane and better 60ft produced 11.3, 120mph

 

I'm sure a lot of people are wondering how this compares to a WR turbo. Sure would be interesting to swap a WR onto that RS and compare the two turbos.

 

these number are great and all but its on a highly modded rs. thats not very real world conditions. im sure a lot of people here want to know what kind of numbers (hp + tq) u can get with a slightly moded evo. u know like turboback, intake, fuel pump. stuff like that, not to crazy. thats the deciding factor of weather i buy one or not.

 

Well, you're not going to see maximum gains unless you optimize everything around the turbo first. For the same reason that you can't run a 10 second pass in an otherwise stock Evo with a 35R "kit", you won't see a magic 150HP gain from just swapping turbos. Everything works together in a package and that's something I think you should take into consideration before spending your money.

 

I have some testing scheduled, funds permitting I will attempt to do some comparisons over a short time period between several twin scroll variants.. This is preliminarily scheduled for october if I can get a shop/dyno on-board and my funds don't run out before I can purchase all the hardware.

The turbos will be tested on two cars, mine which is somewhat modified, but the typical boltons and alky, blowthrough Maf, UTEC, GM solenoid, stainless header and o2 housing, possibly 280 cams (if things go according to schedule, otherwise its stock cams), and another car which is more typically upgraded with an exhaust, intercooler, and whatnot.. We're talking about getting dyno results, and also driver impressions and street driving.. Dyno numbers really won't tell the whole story of these turbos and its important to understand that.

I can't guarantee the testing will happen in october, but this is for a freelance article I'm writing and funding out of my own pocket.. so it really depends alot on the help I get. It will also be compared against a stock 03 turbo, and a stock 05 turbo, and possibly a TME (I may have to use my TME turbo for one of the upgrades)

Don't kill me if this can't happen right away, I'm only one person with help of a few friends, but I really want to do this for the community as a whole (and possibly get an article published in a magazine in addition to it being online)

 

I agree 100%, which is why I always believed in "less is more" type mods where you optimize everything... Its also likely the reason why some cars respond so much better to mods than others (lots of parts thrown on, with little thought to the combination)

 

i think it all sounds cool and if I wanted a new turbo now, Id be calling you

 

So basically we send you our stock turbo and you slap on a 10.5 wheel for $1100? This doesn't sound right.

 

It depends on your core.. If its an 03/04 core, then the $1100 would get you the 10.5 housing, the new compressor wheel, and the machining/balancing required for it to work.. If you have an 05 turbo, then you only need to have the machining work and compressor wheel, which david said was $800

I can tell you now, the 10.5 turbine housing is about $300 which explains the slightly higher expense. Everything else is mainly the time and parts required to get that 20G wheel to fit.. Its not cheap, but its no more expensive than other similar options..

The best option will be an all-new turbo, since it will have the TiAl components, if you send a turbo for upgrade, the CHRA, compressor cover, and turbine housing (unless you choose to upgrade the turbine) will be from your core, so if you send an Iconnel exhaust turbine, thats what you'll get back.. Keep in mind this probably won't make any difference in the boost capabilities or top-end gains, but it will affect spool slightly..

Hopefully Dave can elaborate more since I'm just regurgitating what I've read in this and the other thread.

 

The RS ran an 11.7@116 without a ported head and without a built bottom end as well.