11.30 at 120 mph, BR 20G turbo
Aug 1, 2005 | 07:20 PM
#1
11.30 at 120 mph, BR 20G turbo
Hi guys,
First the numbers.
22 psi of boost, very flat and stable through all 4 gears. Torco 118 fuel. Kevin Lawson driving the car. Kevin made 4 passes in the car Friday night. About 85 degrees when we first go to the track.
11.30 at 120 mph
11.31 at 120 mph
11.32 at 120 mph
11.45 at 120 mph
Sixty foot times were 1.60, 1.61, 1.62 and the 11.45 I can't remember what it was but a high 1.6 is what I think.
The 11.45 pass the car crept out of the lights and caught Kevin off gaurd.
As most of you know we have been working on this stock appearing turbo for quite sometime. In the beginning we referred to it as a "21G", we did this because the compressor wheel we tried to build was larger than a normal Mitsubishi 20G compressor wheel. After quite a few failures, luckily we never tried to sell it, we finally have a winner.
The turbo will be called just an EVO 20G, as the wheel is an exact duplicate of the Mitsu 20G compressor wheel.
My RS is highly built, this is the car we ran in the Car and Driver Super Four Challenge. It does everything better than stock, stops, turns, rides etc. What I would call the ultimate street EVO, atleast it is for me, it's my car so it should be
Prior to the latest testing of the 20G the car had run a best of 11.76 at 116 mph on pump gas. I never got a chance to run the car on race gas as the day that the car was right and ready to be run the stock turbo literally exploded from just running too much boost with it for too long.
The car was capable of much better times than it had run on pump gas (11.76 at 116) with the stock turbo and race gas. Difference between the stock turbo and this new 20G is the amount of boost and the boost line. The stock turbo I had to run close to 30 psi as it would just fall off by 7500 rpm to as low as 17 psi. With our HD actuator I was able to hold in the area of 20-21 psi at 7500.
The new 20G is running a very flat 22 psi, boost only varies about 1 psi from it's highest point to its lowest point. This is how a turbo should act. Another interesting fact is with the testing of the larger wheels we did the AFR's never got leaner, this baffled me as a turbo that produces more air should make the AFR's leaner. This turbo did that, my AFR's went from 11.5:1 to 12.5:1. I ended up adding around 15% more fuel to run the same AFR's.
So there is NO confusion here is what is done to my RS:
My RS is HIGHLY modified. I mean by bolting on a GT35R and a swapping injectors the car would make a reliable 600+ whp right now. The only thing I had left to do was a turbo. I am over due for a turbo.
My car has on it right now:
Buschur Racing (BR) Stage 3 shortlbock
BR Stage 3 head
HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams
BR complete Stage 4
**Substituted our normal FMIC for our race FMIC kit.
Also using the 680 cc injectors that come in Stage 4 kit
Using our MAF pipe with our optional cold air intake. (only works on car without HID lights and that no longer use the i/c sprayer bottle)
Exedy clutch
AEM EMS for engine management instead of AFC or flash
BR ported intake manifold and 65 mm throttle body
BR ported and ceramic coated manifold, turbine housing and 02 housing.
Stop Tech 335 mm front brake upgrade.
Car is being run on straight 118 octane fuel
One other important part. The final drive gearing has been changed. We did this for the C&D event so we could hit our top speed in 4th gear, which ended up NOT working. At this point in time I haven't decided if this gear change has helped our hurt the cars acceleration in the 1/4 mile. My guess is that it HAS slowed it down. I won't know until the day it gets changed back to stock.
Other tidbits:
My car is an RS, it was already pretty light to begin with. I added a stereo and speakers (RS comes without them). I removed the front and rear steel bumper re-enforcements. I removed the spare tire, jack and little tool kit. The car comes with no sound deadener from the factory, no power windows or power door locks. The car has our lightweight battery, exhaust and air filter kit on it. No ABS. Lightweight SSR Competition wheels 17x8.5", Yokohama Neova radials. DMS suspension, rear sway bar and titanium front strut bar. No HID headlights, no i/c sprayer bottle or alky.
What I am trying to get across here is I have done everything to the car to make it fast. This isn't some half *** effort with a bunch of parts just thrown on. Especially not some half *** put together package of the cheapest E-bay parts that could be found. (Don't attack me on that comment, just making a point)
I don't excpect many other people to duplicate a 11.30 at 120 mph. As a matter of fact it is going to be extremely difficult for anyone else to do it. Kevin had a 1.60 and a 1.61 sixty foot time on two of those runs. That in itself on those tires is absolutely amazing.
However, the 120 mph traps speeds at only 22 psi of boost doesn't lie. The turbo really picked up the car and the stock turbo could not duplicate that MPH without much higher boost levels.
This topic is about the turbo and the turbo seems to work well. This is the first time I have been really excited about the turbo since we started on it well over a year ago.
I am really hoping to see a 10 second time from the car in the stock appearing class at the shootout. It stops faster than stock, turns faster/harder than stock, rides better than stock. This is an EVO, this car is just an improvement on a great car. This is NOT a drag car. It has had nothing CUT off of it or had any of the safety equipment removed from it. Seat belts are all intact and so are the air bags. The door beams are all in it and all the windows work as they should. There is no hole in my rear window where there use to be a wiper.
My point is while the car is built to its full potential it is in no way anything that can't be duplicated with some money and work (like in the lightening of the car). I like to think I made intelligent choices and that is why it is performing like it is.
Just wanted to make sure everyone reading this or that will read it in the future understands a turbo is not a miracle cure for a poor combination of parts. A turbo is what it is. It needs tuned and it needs to be installed with parts that will bring out its potential.
This particular turbo I feel is as good as you are going to get a stock appearing turbo on an EVO.
Looking forward to more boost and a 10 second pass.
We tried to turn the boost up but no matter what I did the logs didn't change and read 22 psi. I have to check for a leak or an actuator problem. With more boost the car will go 10's. As soon as I figure out what it is these will be ready for release.
The turbo pricing is this:
Send in your GOOD core and we build your 20G for $800.
Send in your GOOD core, we add a 10.5 turbine housing and 20G, $1100.
Send in no core and we build a brand new TME-20G with a 10.5 housing for $1500.
There are still a few things we might be able to do to drop cost a bit. Once they are in production and running if we can cut them anymore I will.
Thanks for reading,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
First the numbers.
22 psi of boost, very flat and stable through all 4 gears. Torco 118 fuel. Kevin Lawson driving the car. Kevin made 4 passes in the car Friday night. About 85 degrees when we first go to the track.
11.30 at 120 mph
11.31 at 120 mph
11.32 at 120 mph
11.45 at 120 mph
Sixty foot times were 1.60, 1.61, 1.62 and the 11.45 I can't remember what it was but a high 1.6 is what I think.
The 11.45 pass the car crept out of the lights and caught Kevin off gaurd.
As most of you know we have been working on this stock appearing turbo for quite sometime. In the beginning we referred to it as a "21G", we did this because the compressor wheel we tried to build was larger than a normal Mitsubishi 20G compressor wheel. After quite a few failures, luckily we never tried to sell it, we finally have a winner.
The turbo will be called just an EVO 20G, as the wheel is an exact duplicate of the Mitsu 20G compressor wheel.
My RS is highly built, this is the car we ran in the Car and Driver Super Four Challenge. It does everything better than stock, stops, turns, rides etc. What I would call the ultimate street EVO, atleast it is for me, it's my car so it should be
Prior to the latest testing of the 20G the car had run a best of 11.76 at 116 mph on pump gas. I never got a chance to run the car on race gas as the day that the car was right and ready to be run the stock turbo literally exploded from just running too much boost with it for too long.
The car was capable of much better times than it had run on pump gas (11.76 at 116) with the stock turbo and race gas. Difference between the stock turbo and this new 20G is the amount of boost and the boost line. The stock turbo I had to run close to 30 psi as it would just fall off by 7500 rpm to as low as 17 psi. With our HD actuator I was able to hold in the area of 20-21 psi at 7500.
The new 20G is running a very flat 22 psi, boost only varies about 1 psi from it's highest point to its lowest point. This is how a turbo should act. Another interesting fact is with the testing of the larger wheels we did the AFR's never got leaner, this baffled me as a turbo that produces more air should make the AFR's leaner. This turbo did that, my AFR's went from 11.5:1 to 12.5:1. I ended up adding around 15% more fuel to run the same AFR's.
So there is NO confusion here is what is done to my RS:
My RS is HIGHLY modified. I mean by bolting on a GT35R and a swapping injectors the car would make a reliable 600+ whp right now. The only thing I had left to do was a turbo. I am over due for a turbo.
My car has on it right now:
Buschur Racing (BR) Stage 3 shortlbock
BR Stage 3 head
HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams
BR complete Stage 4
**Substituted our normal FMIC for our race FMIC kit.
Also using the 680 cc injectors that come in Stage 4 kit
Using our MAF pipe with our optional cold air intake. (only works on car without HID lights and that no longer use the i/c sprayer bottle)
Exedy clutch
AEM EMS for engine management instead of AFC or flash
BR ported intake manifold and 65 mm throttle body
BR ported and ceramic coated manifold, turbine housing and 02 housing.
Stop Tech 335 mm front brake upgrade.
Car is being run on straight 118 octane fuel
One other important part. The final drive gearing has been changed. We did this for the C&D event so we could hit our top speed in 4th gear, which ended up NOT working. At this point in time I haven't decided if this gear change has helped our hurt the cars acceleration in the 1/4 mile. My guess is that it HAS slowed it down. I won't know until the day it gets changed back to stock.
Other tidbits:
My car is an RS, it was already pretty light to begin with. I added a stereo and speakers (RS comes without them). I removed the front and rear steel bumper re-enforcements. I removed the spare tire, jack and little tool kit. The car comes with no sound deadener from the factory, no power windows or power door locks. The car has our lightweight battery, exhaust and air filter kit on it. No ABS. Lightweight SSR Competition wheels 17x8.5", Yokohama Neova radials. DMS suspension, rear sway bar and titanium front strut bar. No HID headlights, no i/c sprayer bottle or alky.
What I am trying to get across here is I have done everything to the car to make it fast. This isn't some half *** effort with a bunch of parts just thrown on. Especially not some half *** put together package of the cheapest E-bay parts that could be found. (Don't attack me on that comment, just making a point)
I don't excpect many other people to duplicate a 11.30 at 120 mph. As a matter of fact it is going to be extremely difficult for anyone else to do it. Kevin had a 1.60 and a 1.61 sixty foot time on two of those runs. That in itself on those tires is absolutely amazing.
However, the 120 mph traps speeds at only 22 psi of boost doesn't lie. The turbo really picked up the car and the stock turbo could not duplicate that MPH without much higher boost levels.
This topic is about the turbo and the turbo seems to work well. This is the first time I have been really excited about the turbo since we started on it well over a year ago.
I am really hoping to see a 10 second time from the car in the stock appearing class at the shootout. It stops faster than stock, turns faster/harder than stock, rides better than stock. This is an EVO, this car is just an improvement on a great car. This is NOT a drag car. It has had nothing CUT off of it or had any of the safety equipment removed from it. Seat belts are all intact and so are the air bags. The door beams are all in it and all the windows work as they should. There is no hole in my rear window where there use to be a wiper.
My point is while the car is built to its full potential it is in no way anything that can't be duplicated with some money and work (like in the lightening of the car). I like to think I made intelligent choices and that is why it is performing like it is.
Just wanted to make sure everyone reading this or that will read it in the future understands a turbo is not a miracle cure for a poor combination of parts. A turbo is what it is. It needs tuned and it needs to be installed with parts that will bring out its potential.
This particular turbo I feel is as good as you are going to get a stock appearing turbo on an EVO.
Looking forward to more boost and a 10 second pass.
We tried to turn the boost up but no matter what I did the logs didn't change and read 22 psi. I have to check for a leak or an actuator problem. With more boost the car will go 10's. As soon as I figure out what it is these will be ready for release.
The turbo pricing is this:
Send in your GOOD core and we build your 20G for $800.
Send in your GOOD core, we add a 10.5 turbine housing and 20G, $1100.
Send in no core and we build a brand new TME-20G with a 10.5 housing for $1500.
There are still a few things we might be able to do to drop cost a bit. Once they are in production and running if we can cut them anymore I will.
Thanks for reading,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Aug 1, 2005 | 07:27 PM
#2
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: rancho cucamonga
nice.....so which turbo went 11.3@120mph?
1.) Send in your GOOD core and we build your 20G for $800.
2.) Send in your GOOD core, we add a 10.5 turbine housing and 20G, $1100.
3.) Send in no core and we build a brand new TME-20G with a 10.5 housing for $1500.
or does 1,2,3 not matter???
1.) Send in your GOOD core and we build your 20G for $800.
2.) Send in your GOOD core, we add a 10.5 turbine housing and 20G, $1100.
3.) Send in no core and we build a brand new TME-20G with a 10.5 housing for $1500.
or does 1,2,3 not matter???
Trending Topics
Aug 1, 2005 | 07:44 PM
#8
David,
Congratulations on finally getting a turbo that works as you had hoped. I am very excited about it and could see it as my next power upgrade. What would you recommend as a minimum for injector size? Any other supporting mods required aside from fuel pump and injectors? Thanks,
Paul
Congratulations on finally getting a turbo that works as you had hoped. I am very excited about it and could see it as my next power upgrade. What would you recommend as a minimum for injector size? Any other supporting mods required aside from fuel pump and injectors? Thanks,
Paul
Aug 1, 2005 | 08:33 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Iceman2011
how much % more air does it flow over stock? how is the spool? just trying to get some more info on how much power it will make on a inta/exh/cam evo..
thanks
thanks
Aug 1, 2005 | 10:12 PM
#13
Ok, so my final question is? can you make a 20g using the existing 05 turbo?, if so, how much would it be to make a 05 turbo with a 10.5 to a 20g , 10.5 hotside and Ti wheels?
Basicly going from current TD05H16G 10.5 to 20G Tiwheel
Thanks!!
Basicly going from current TD05H16G 10.5 to 20G Tiwheel
Thanks!!
