Injen Intake & Pipe
Aug 18, 2005, 08:30 PM
#17
Originally Posted by EVONation
A lot of places suggest before getting a flash you should upgrade to a short ram intake... I was looking at the buschur but it also seemed like a lot for just a pipe and a filter $250? The injen is around $400 shipped but you also get the upper ic pipe... Pretty goos deal don't you think?
Aug 19, 2005, 05:34 AM
#20
Originally Posted by GREDDY
I got more then 19awhp after tunning with Injen intake/UIP. Trust me, it's worth $370shipped.
Aug 19, 2005, 05:39 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
It's the tune that made 19awhp, not the intake. No one in their right mind would think or believe that an intake can add 19whp...
Aug 19, 2005, 05:43 AM
#22
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
true, but the intake + tune absolutely nets faster spool and on most cars I have witnesses being flashed, a but more torque and more hp especially in the mid to upper range.. Not to mention the upper IC pipe eliminates those incrdibly crappy woven IC "couplers" Mitsu blesses us with from the factory (which are very prone to failure over time as well as leaks)
Aug 19, 2005, 05:49 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I didn't say stock was better than aftermarket. I said that spending $400 for such minimal gains is unwise, especially when you get just about the same gains with a panel filter that does NO harm to the MAF readings while keeping the intake temps lower. If I spend $400 on something (I have yet to spend this much on any power mod), then I better get a good 20-30whp, not 5whp+noise.
Other $400 mods:
1) Custom flash = 20-40whp easily
2) 3" cat-back = 20whp ($600 for TBE = 40whp)
3) Alky injection = 30-40whp (along with increased boost that it allows)
Or, spend another $200 on cams for 30-40whp...
If and when you are overruning the stock MAF and/or are pushing major boost through an upgraded turbo, you don't need something like the Injen...
Other $400 mods:
1) Custom flash = 20-40whp easily
2) 3" cat-back = 20whp ($600 for TBE = 40whp)
3) Alky injection = 30-40whp (along with increased boost that it allows)
Or, spend another $200 on cams for 30-40whp...
If and when you are overruning the stock MAF and/or are pushing major boost through an upgraded turbo, you don't need something like the Injen...
You and I think alike. Best bang for the buck with proven gains. There are many stock pieces that do not need to be replaced to go real fast. The intake is one of them. I am shooting for 11's tomorrow with mostly stock parts. Just the big power adders. CAMS, ALKY, UTEC and a ton of tuning. I was able to make 370WHP with all these stock parts so they can't be too restrictive.
Last edited by gestalt; Aug 19, 2005 at 05:53 AM.
Aug 19, 2005, 05:52 AM
#24
Originally Posted by gestalt
You and I think alike. Best bang for the buck with proven gains. There are many stock pieces that do not need to be replaced to go real fast. The intake is one of them. I am shooting for 11's tomorrow with mostly stock parts. Just the big power adders. CAMS, ALKY, UTEC and a ton of tuning.
Aug 19, 2005, 05:52 AM
#25
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they may not be going faster in a straight line but the dyno's speak for themselves 
if saving $$ is the real object, leave the stock filter alone and don't even bother with the drop in. The decreased spool time by eliminating the corrugated rubber induction pipe is worthy in and of itself - in Injen's case, they happen to simply package it with an upper IC pipe as well, thus making the kit in the mid $300 range.
It's not a "mine is bigger than yours contest" - some people want what they want and don't like the bare bones approach. Other's prefer to do the small things and net the bang for the buck - different strokes for different folks and in the end, neither is wrong.
if saving $$ is the real object, leave the stock filter alone and don't even bother with the drop in. The decreased spool time by eliminating the corrugated rubber induction pipe is worthy in and of itself - in Injen's case, they happen to simply package it with an upper IC pipe as well, thus making the kit in the mid $300 range.
It's not a "mine is bigger than yours contest" - some people want what they want and don't like the bare bones approach. Other's prefer to do the small things and net the bang for the buck - different strokes for different folks and in the end, neither is wrong.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Aug 19, 2005 at 05:55 AM.
Aug 19, 2005, 05:56 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
they may not be going faster in a straight line but the dyno's speak for themselves
if saving $$ is the real object, leave the stock filter alone and don't even bother with the drop in. The decreased spool time by eliminating the corrugated rubber induction pipe is worthy in and of itself - in Injen's case, they happen to simply package it with an upper IC pipe as well, thus making the kit in the mid $300 range.
It's not a "mine is bigger than yours contest" - some people want what they want and don't like the bare bones approach. Other's prefer to do the small things and net the bang for the buck - different strokes for different folks and in the end, neither is wrong.
if saving $$ is the real object, leave the stock filter alone and don't even bother with the drop in. The decreased spool time by eliminating the corrugated rubber induction pipe is worthy in and of itself - in Injen's case, they happen to simply package it with an upper IC pipe as well, thus making the kit in the mid $300 range.
It's not a "mine is bigger than yours contest" - some people want what they want and don't like the bare bones approach. Other's prefer to do the small things and net the bang for the buck - different strokes for different folks and in the end, neither is wrong.
I don't consider what I do to be a "bare bones" approach. I consider it a "buy only what helps you go faster" approach. The statement about "they may not be going faster in a straight line by the dyno's speak for themselves" is VERY telling. I put about this much faith in dyno numbers and THIS much faith in track results. Anyone can make big dyno numbers; very few can duplicate those numbers at the track.
Aug 19, 2005, 05:57 AM
#28
Originally Posted by gestalt
That will be quite a feat without cams. Good luck.
Aug 19, 2005, 06:01 AM
#29
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that's the thing - one is NOT better than another. Replacing the corrugated pipe is not where the problems begin at all - coupled with a flash, its where the fun starts in the form of decreased spool time. I understand what you are saying about the dyno vs track times, but not everyone enjoys drag racing. I used to be in that camp as well, constantly taking the car to the track, but at the end of the day, I found it so unbearably boring, that I stopped going altogether and now hit maybe 1 event a year. That does not make the people who go and enjoy it wrong, it just makes it different.
As for the times and dyno's, in some instances you might be right, but I have a bevy of customer cars too deep to mention who's times and dyno's mirror one another....all depends what dyno you are talking about
As for the times and dyno's, in some instances you might be right, but I have a bevy of customer cars too deep to mention who's times and dyno's mirror one another....all depends what dyno you are talking about
Aug 19, 2005, 06:02 AM
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Well, there is allways the option I took.. The Buschur filter, without the expensive bling pipe, just the filter. I gained nice power from it after my flash, and it has all the cool sound everyone wants, but it only cost me $80 total.
I feel that $80 for a few ponies is worth it. $300 - $400, isn't worth it to me though!
I feel that $80 for a few ponies is worth it. $300 - $400, isn't worth it to me though!