True, there was a episode of "Rides" that took you step by step from start to finish of the Lamborghini Merciliago's (sp) production. They also run the engines wide open the very first time they start them up on an engine dyno, then after it's in the car, the car itself goes straight on a 4wd dyno.

 

Actually, all cars manufacturers do that now, so its not exclusive to Ferrari and Porsche.

 

on my STi I did a mix beat on it sometimes and drove it easy others...can't argue with a balance

 

i agree. when braking in all my newly built race bike motors we pretty much used all the principals in the article. sometimes the motor wouldn't be finished till the night before a race weekend and the first pratice laps were for seating the rings, then a quick oil change. my mechanic was insistant on hard pulls, almost to redline, and decelerate till it came back to 3 or 4 grand. he told me the hard pulls (don't have to redline it) and backing off were the most important steps.

 

I have read this article, I think the break in period on the EVO is for the drivetrain as well as the motor. The limited slip diff and the clutch need a break in period. I know everytime I have done a clutch install the directions usually specify a 500 or so mile breakin period and I also know many LSD install directions call for a specific break in as well.

 

it's true that the clutch does need break in period, but that just mean don't shift hard. you can still ease into high gear and then accelerate, that will not harm the clutch during break in persiod. as far as LSD break in period, driving in a straight line does not effect the LSD.

 

i broke my car in the hardway and have 23k miles on my motor without any problems whatsoever.

my motor makes 300 whp on the Gruppe-S dyno. Most EVOs make about 280 with TBE, flash or afc, cams, intake, ect. basically a stage 4 or 3 setup.

my car does have an AEM and WR which distinguishes it from the norm.

 

i have never heard this before, i babied my car for the first 1k runs strong and makes good power.

 

I ALWAYS break them in the hard and last week when I checked compression they were 151-151-151-150. It cant get much more even then that!

 

Broke mine in hard as well. No problems with the motor. ****ty 03' drivetrain...thats another matter.

 

I agree!! I'm still in the break-in period of my 05 EVO. I'm keeping it below 5K RPM for 600-1000 miles. Isn't that what tells us?

 

I definitely follow the 'hard' break in method..

- Plenty of time to warm up (make sure to give more than it takes your temp gauge to get to 'warm', thats coolant temp not oil temp.)
- LOTS of throttle variation
- Hard pulls
- and personally I keep it under 5500 RPM for the first 500-600 miles or so and increase my max RPM up to redline by 1000 miles.

Drive it like you want it to drive you.

 

Pulled out of the dealship with the accelerator to the floor and have kept it there since (23Kmiles) except to slow down.

Mitsubishi manual states their said procedure because the clutch and brakes, and for liability issues due to the fact that if something was initially loose, it would be more hazardous at 7500rpms.

Drive it hard, change oil at 1000mi, then change every 3000

 

I have broken every new motor in by 3 or 4 hard pulls. Start in your lower rpm range in a 2nd or 3rd gear then floor it to redline. Then let it slow by the motor. I was always told to make the cylinder pressures as high as possible as quick as possible. It's the only way to get those rings to seal. It has worked like a charm every time. On all kinds and brands of motors. Ford inline 6, Pontiac 455, Chevy 350, Honda nt650, Suzuki TL1000 and My 4.0 in my Sportrac.That poor thing has been worked to death since day one. It runs great and uses no oil between changes and is about to see 95000 miles. Biggest thing is I change the oil right after I do this then again at 500 miles. Just my thoughts......

 

The manual that came with the EVO said to keep under 5K RPM for 600 miles, no long excessive speeds (prolonged highway driving), no hard braking.

Doesn't say change oil after 1000 miles or do redline pulls. I guess everyone has their own opinions. I rather feel more comfortable doing what is recommended by the person who actually manufactured the damn car. Not some joe scho website guy who has "broken in hundreds of cars".