Controversial Break-in technique
#31
Originally Posted by Cali2MDevo8
The manual that came with the EVO said to keep under 5K RPM for 600 miles, no long excessive speeds (prolonged highway driving), no hard braking.
Doesn't say change oil after 1000 miles or do redline pulls. I guess everyone has their own opinions. I rather feel more comfortable doing what is recommended by the person who actually manufactured the damn car. Not some joe scho website guy who has "broken in hundreds of cars".
Doesn't say change oil after 1000 miles or do redline pulls. I guess everyone has their own opinions. I rather feel more comfortable doing what is recommended by the person who actually manufactured the damn car. Not some joe scho website guy who has "broken in hundreds of cars".
If I were you then I would keep it stock b/c that is what is recommended by the person who actually manufactured the car
#34
i have been building race engines for years and we engine dyno all of our engines in this matter:
wot UNDER load...the engine is struggling to reach redline with this process. we do this for about 30 minutes. we then let it cool, open up the Oberg oil filter housing and check the screen for any un-wanted metal particles, drain the oil then do the power runs. another interesting note...we always break in engines with high quality dino motor oil then use full synthetic Motul 300V when installed in the car.
when i was working on Champ cars the engines where broken in the same way. this is why i have do this since i have been building my own engines.
winston
wot UNDER load...the engine is struggling to reach redline with this process. we do this for about 30 minutes. we then let it cool, open up the Oberg oil filter housing and check the screen for any un-wanted metal particles, drain the oil then do the power runs. another interesting note...we always break in engines with high quality dino motor oil then use full synthetic Motul 300V when installed in the car.
when i was working on Champ cars the engines where broken in the same way. this is why i have do this since i have been building my own engines.
winston
#36
Originally Posted by 4ringturncoat
If I were you then I would keep it stock b/c that is what is recommended by the person who actually manufactured the car
#38
Originally Posted by WINSTON
i have been building race engines for years and we engine dyno all of our engines in this matter:
wot UNDER load...the engine is struggling to reach redline with this process. we do this for about 30 minutes. we then let it cool, open up the Oberg oil filter housing and check the screen for any un-wanted metal particles, drain the oil then do the power runs. another interesting note...we always break in engines with high quality dino motor oil then use full synthetic Motul 300V when installed in the car.
when i was working on Champ cars the engines where broken in the same way. this is why i have do this since i have been building my own engines.
winston
wot UNDER load...the engine is struggling to reach redline with this process. we do this for about 30 minutes. we then let it cool, open up the Oberg oil filter housing and check the screen for any un-wanted metal particles, drain the oil then do the power runs. another interesting note...we always break in engines with high quality dino motor oil then use full synthetic Motul 300V when installed in the car.
when i was working on Champ cars the engines where broken in the same way. this is why i have do this since i have been building my own engines.
winston
I love busting open a Oberg after the run in, all the crap you find is hilarious...paint, metal chips, plasti-gauge, and some sort of gray sludge. No mater how many times you wash a block the filter is always full of crap
#40
we always broke in our race car motors on the dyno, doing power/tuning pulls!
touring cars, Lemans cars, American Iron series, and even a couple big power street cars (like our 91 porsche 911 with a 383chevy v8TT!)
touring cars, Lemans cars, American Iron series, and even a couple big power street cars (like our 91 porsche 911 with a 383chevy v8TT!)
#41
Aside from that, the engines are tested at the factories and i'm sure they are beaten to hell before put into the cars. As for my car I took it easy for 500 miles, which I then took it up to 140. I then took it easy for another 500 miles untill 1k miles and took it up to 160. I've been driving it like I stole it ever since with no problems.
#42
This technique is proven. Before i bOUGHT MY atv I read this page and figured it was in perfect time so i printed it out. I used the Dyno technique and about Four months later I pulled out the piston and it look nothing like what a four month year old piston looked like. I t looked more like a two week old piston. So I definetly recommend it.
#44
I broke in my Evo and R1 by the book but now after reading that article I dont know what to think. I do know that if you go to NHRA they build an engine, put it in the car and let it rip down the track. Then they rebuild it again