lhooq

The 2 grand for lighter wheels is worth it if your making a street race car. You are losing unsprung weight which also helps with reducing rotational mass - better braking and acceleration. Keep the stock rims for the street, and put racing rubber on the racing rims.

Jasil

iTrader: (22)

Just add power!! I wish we could eliminate hundreds of pounds like nothing, but in reality you can't. Most people want all the seats, and A/C, and a radio, and power windows and locks. So, that leaves you with spare/jack, TBE, lightweight battery, rims, brakes, and coilovers if you really want to get picky. Know you spent big money too. Brakes are 1.3K minimum for a 12lb weight advantage, rims are up to you, but don't forget tires?? Some weight much more than others.

You can drop 90lbs buy doing a TBE, battery, spare and jack. Your GSR would weight 3135 or so and then just add power.

ballistic speed

iTrader: (19)

most hoods are HEAVER than stock

evo8rcr

iTrader: (2)

why worry about weight loss it would be chaeper to add more power for speed then lose weight for speed

evo8rcr

iTrader: (2)

you could buy a cf trunk for like $700 and lose like 5lbs or but like an tb exhaust and gain 15 whp

Vishnu_Evo8

iTrader: (6)

this has prolly been said 20x by now:
SO far i have saved 37 lbs by removing my Ac system, 16 lbs by getting a ltw battery, 13 lbs with the jic's, 18 from the exhaust, removal of the tire and jack is about 28 lbs, about 4 lbs on each corner with the ssr's (16lbs), 3 lbs on each front rotor (Stoptech rotors) (6lbs), removal of all the carpeting and trunk stuff, 8 lbs, removal of front seat approx 35 lbs, Twin carbon clutch with ltw flywheel, 8 lbs, Front crash beam, 15 lbs. rear crash beam, 11 lbs. (i have them in but i weighed them anyways) The total here is 211lbs.. not bad getting close to 3000 lbs. 3280-211 is about 3020.

remind me if i forgot anything.

bd307

Can't agree more than you. The best is to lose weight and of course, I am assuming most of us are over weighted.

Honestly speaking, if you do not want to spend money on lighter parts and would like to save a bunch, again, there is no way you can do it. You got to pay if you want to play.

If you are building a race car, it means that you should get rids of the glasses, front and rear bumper beams (at least cut some of the metals out), A/C, all the powered accessories (windows, locks, etc...), and a lot more.

You should not say you are building a race car if you do not want to get rid any of those.

bd307

As he mentioned, he wants to build a race car, but he can't spend too much.

Weight is one of the importnat aspects for a race car. It is not about going fast, and it is about balance. Even I give you a 1000hp car, but it weights over a ton, you will not be able to match up with some underpowered cars.

DNEVO

A race car, and not much money..in the same sentance.....no

ProccoEVO

iTrader: (15)

I second that;!!!!! that’s the way to do it !!!!.1st build it ,go fast, then weight reduction ,is the only way to know how strong is your set up!!!!! in my experience with my car we done 10.4@140.58 FULL WEIGHT w spear tire and jack and 10 point roll cage !!!!! Weight in at 3,340lb at morroso speedway with out driver! now we are switching to bigger tires 245/40/18"BF drag radials, and to T.R.E drag tranny !!!!! hopefully I will see a difference in our 1st past see the results and then weight reduction!!!!!!!!!!!

evolved4g63

iTrader: (11)

Im pretty sure the power part is already taken care of. From what i remember, there should be a 35R under his hood.

EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

Amen. Although it does not seem like a lot of weight savings you will realize a performace difference.

EarlQHan

You want a daily driven (comfortable) race car with a full interior WITHOUT spending money? Kind of hard to do. The saying is a car can be good, fast or cheap, now pick two. And there's no real way to take off massive amounts of weight with one mod, you lose some here, lose some there and it all adds up. But here are some options of losing weight which will definately make you significantly faster while keeping the stock turbo.

Cheap way (will lose all creature comforts): Evo RS obviously, but if you don't have one, you can strip the car. Lose the back A/C, stereo, rear seats, rear seatbelts, door trim, spare, jack, sound deadening, rear carpet, wing, lightweight bumper beam or cut bumper beam, lightweight battery.

Middle path (lose back seats): reflash, downpipe, full titanium catback, lightweight wheels, remove spare, jack, rear seats, lightweight battery.

Expensive path (keep a full interior/better handling): reflash, downpipe, full titanium catback, lightweight battery, wheels, brake rotors, hubs, bumper beam, front seats, flywheel, suspension bits like control arms, coilovers, subframe brace, etc. CF or aluminum driveshaft. Remove spare, jack, front seat belts. Harnesses and harness bar. CF trunk no wing.

Hardcore path: Combine the cheap and expensive paths, except get lightweight bumper beam (safety first), strip out all the carpeting, sound deading, get a roll cage. I'm coming from a Subaru perspective of power adders, don't know if it will hold true of the Evos. But from what I've heard, you can also add boost controller, intake, port and polishing. Power to weight ratio should be very good, with quicker acceleration and spool up with stock turbo and handling will be much improved too.

BTW losing rotating mass has the greatest effect on all aspects of the car (accel, deccel, handling). Keep a full interior, get a CF driveshaft, light wheels like the 17" SSR Comps, lightened flywheel, light brake rotors and race a full interior with a turboback and reflash. I'm sure he'll be quite surprised when he finds out you have absolutely NO power adders.

joeymia

iTrader: (6)

ive always wondered if it was possible to remove the entire trunk floor... i was thinking of cutting out the entire floor with spare tire well etc... then make a carbon flat floor. Just wondering how much it would actually weigh. Any guesstimate? I think I will be doing this over the christmas time.

escoson

iTrader: (2)

if your dead set on replacing parts with lighter ones such as the hood, trunk, fenders etc... go with dry-carbon if anything. its expensive but that is what would save you the most weight. thats just my opinion.