Lime Rock Track report
#23
Originally posted by ShapeGSX
I thought the Evo already had brake ducts of sorts built into the undertray in front of the engine.
I thought the Evo already had brake ducts of sorts built into the undertray in front of the engine.
Do the evo 8s not have the eccentric bolt in the front strut any more? On VIIs you can use it to add 1 degree of negitive front camber?
Erik
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Originally posted by ShapeGSX
I thought the Evo already had brake ducts of sorts built into the undertray in front of the engine.
I thought the Evo already had brake ducts of sorts built into the undertray in front of the engine.
Here's a pic of the beginnings of the guides. You can see where it would attach to the A-arm to guide it up to the caliper.
Brake Cooling Guides....look at the accessories...$150
Last edited by smanders; Mar 28, 2003 at 04:43 PM.
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I also just got the Evo. VIII three weeks ago, and have run four courses so far. The car handles excellent, and to me doesn't exhibit much understeer at all. If that really was the problem, people should try adjusting the tire pressure, as that tends to make a huge difference, especially when Mitsubishi techs tend to up it during servicing. However, in wtz's example, I got the impression that the surface was somewhat wet, and could have potentially been the cause. It is simply a fantastic car to drive in the sunshine though. Also, I tend to disagree with wtz in regard to the brakes, as I operated under heavy braking upwards of 130-50mph on some portions of the track, and did not experience any jittering. Perhaps, again, different track, different conditions. The car acts almost like it has traction control, and may be thrown into turns haphazardly, and still not spin. Additionally, during a heavy S series, the car will set almost instanteneously. For the most part, wtz is right on the money. I will soon be posting a link to a video pretty soon of my first time out at Thunderhill in CA, so people may see what it's like from 1st person.
#27
Hi All,
For what it's worth, my rotors seem back to normal after cooling down for a day. Of course, I was unable to test them as hard as at the track. My guess is this is not the end of this problem. Also examined my tire wear more closely. On the inside edges of the Hoosiers there is a solid 2 inches of tire that looks pristine. This is front and rear. I will get tire temps next time out to confirm but it looks to me like the car may need more negative camber at both ends.
Cheers,
For what it's worth, my rotors seem back to normal after cooling down for a day. Of course, I was unable to test them as hard as at the track. My guess is this is not the end of this problem. Also examined my tire wear more closely. On the inside edges of the Hoosiers there is a solid 2 inches of tire that looks pristine. This is front and rear. I will get tire temps next time out to confirm but it looks to me like the car may need more negative camber at both ends.
Cheers,
#29
Hi Claudius,
While you're here, what do you hear about Bradi Grp. N discs? Know anyone who has installed brembo ceramic caliper pistons in the stock caliper? I found these on the Ralliart Spain website. The tires I am running are only available in 225 and 245 widths.
Cheers,
While you're here, what do you hear about Bradi Grp. N discs? Know anyone who has installed brembo ceramic caliper pistons in the stock caliper? I found these on the Ralliart Spain website. The tires I am running are only available in 225 and 245 widths.
Cheers,
#30
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Re. the discs, I heard they are cheap so people just buy them and throw them away when they warp.
Not sure that there's a problem with the pistons, so why replace them? I have read about people installing springs behind the pistons to keep them from seizing, though. (Available from JSpeed amongst others).
Not sure that there's a problem with the pistons, so why replace them? I have read about people installing springs behind the pistons to keep them from seizing, though. (Available from JSpeed amongst others).