4G63>OOOO

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like what you're going through is an assembly issue, not a clutch issue. If the engine isn't pre-oiled, when you're trying to prime it and push down on the clutch and there's nothing but metal between the thrust bearing and the crank, the fuse will give and the fuse in this case is the thrust bearing.

One way around this is to defeat the neutral safety switch before priming the motor to avoid the pressure on the thrust bearing.

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

you're not gonna get a deal on a shortblock. and you can try to diy on a 2.4 but it most likely won't work out too well as you have to modify oil squirters and stuff.

redninja

iTrader: (7)

Do you guys think it would be a good idea then to just buy a oem Evo block outright and just have the machine shop put the stroker together or exchange it for a already built one? I was hoping to find a used evo block that i could exchange or build instead, but it does not look possible. Do you guys know any good resources for used evo blocks. A couple vendors say that they cant just outright sell me one and would not say why?

4G63>OOOO

iTrader: (1)

Just buy a fresh block. When you buy a used block, you will only save a couple hundred and there is no guarantee that the bore is even good. I would talk to Buschur Racing or AMS and see what kind of price they can give you for a preassembled stroker shortblock. Per their websites, it looks like the going rate is 2900 fully assembled, which seems like a really great deal, considering you don't have to deal with a machine shop. If it's 1500 for a bare block, a couple hundred for the main and rod bearings, some more for the machine work you should do on the block, plus the cost of rods and pistons and a stroker crank and downtime while you're picking stuff up and dropping it off, it seems like it would be easier to have one of the above two guys get it done for you.

I have no affiliation with any of the above vendors, but if I had to do it, this seems like the path of least resistance and will help you if you have any problems with getting it going as far as who to call for support issues. They both have great reps on here and you can pretty much flip a coin to make your decision, they're both established and will get the job done.

Hope this helps.

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

mmm... i think you're misunderstanding. an oem evo block will cost a lot, it's easy to get your hands on an evo block... the price... is not easy. so if you're gonna drop a whole assy in and not do it yerself... get a 2.4 from roadrace... that will end up being cheaper than if you got an oem dealy and it would be made well. otherwise... if you wanna be safe or what not just take the advice right above.

now i only recommend the 2.4 cuz coming out of a galant you might be able to find one for cheapies. contact them and find out how much the whole assy is.

redninja

iTrader: (7)

Ok i understand, thanks for the advise. I (personally) will not be doing the work, my mechanic will be. I am just upset that I have to redo the bottom end when I thought that it was pretty much bulletproof from the 1st time around. I may as well do the 2.4 deal, it just that its sounding like a little more work than the 2.3. I Plan on reusing call the headstuds and main studs and I have and extra set of arp rod bolts somewhere at home. I know it kinda sounds funky trying to save money doing this stuff, but I just wasnt planning on investing this kind of $$ into the evo right now. Also the 2.4 sounds like I may have to change out the cam gears and timing belt, or can i reuse the HKS ones that I have? I am looking at like 1500 for a new block, and like 1900 for the rods/pistons/crank, and i need a clutch (not act) as well, so another 1500 in there as well. that 5k altogther.

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

why aren't you getting this waranteed btw... you couldn't have run outta that so quickly right? and this is a legit fault of mechanical components.

redninja

iTrader: (7)

the mechanic is giving me the mits special. He is saying that crankwalk is not his fault.